Briess pilsen vs golden light dme

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Morri896

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2019
Messages
77
Reaction score
45
Anybody have any flavor comparisons between the two, and I guess pale ale also. I've been choosing based on color, but I'm curious how diffent the flavors are.
 
Pilsen Light DME tastes like a wort made from Pilsen Malt, fresh grain. It's very light in color.

Golden Light is darker kilned Pale Ale Malt based. Somewhat richer, deeper malt flavors (and color) than Pilsen.

Either is excellent, and once steeping grains are added, the difference is far less noticeable.
 
Pilsen Light DME tastes like a wort made from Pilsen Malt, fresh grain. It's very light in color.

Golden Light is darker kilned Pale Ale Malt based. Somewhat richer, deeper malt flavors (and color) than Pilsen.

Either is excellent, and once steeping grains are added, the difference is far less noticeable.
How different would it be with just a half pound of caramel 10L for steeping grain? I just ordered ingredients for a blonde, i picked the pilsen malt because I was worried the golden light would be too dark, but afterwards I started thinking it wouldn't be, and that the flavor would have been better for that style (based on what I've read).
 
How different would it be with just a half pound of caramel 10L for steeping grain? I just ordered ingredients for a blonde, i picked the pilsen malt because I was worried the golden light would be too dark, but afterwards I started thinking it wouldn't be, and that the flavor would have been better for that style (based on what I've read).
Make that 1 full pound of the 10L.
 
Boiling an extract darkens it more. I think you'll be fine with the Pilsen Light in that recipe. Many Blondes are too dark.
If you do partial boils with a top up in the kettle or fermenter, only add half the extract at the beginning of the boil, the rest at flameout. It keeps the wort lighter, and retains a fresher taste.
 
Boiling an extract darkens it more. I think you'll be fine with the Pilsen Light in that recipe. Many Blondes are too dark.
If you do partial boils with a top up in the kettle or fermenter, only add half the extract at the beginning of the boil, the rest at flameout. It keeps the wort lighter, and retains a fresher taste.
I just tried that technique for the first time on an ipa i did that's still fermenting. It was also my first batch using dme. I didn't use steeping grains on that one because I was doing it as a smash, but one thing I wasn't sure about was when to steep if I was. When using liquid I did the steeping first and added the extract after reaching boil, just removing from heat. But with dry I read somewhere that it mixes better cold, would I steep the grains after?
 
I just tried that technique for the first time on an ipa i did that's still fermenting. It was also my first batch using dme. I didn't use steeping grains on that one because I was doing it as a smash, but one thing I wasn't sure about was when to steep if I was. When using liquid I did the steeping first and added the extract after reaching boil, just removing from heat. But with dry I read somewhere that it mixes better cold, would I steep the grains after?
Similar as with liquid malt, but don't bring to a boil first.

You steep (milled) grains at around 155F, for say 20-30 minutes, pull the bag, let drip out. Sparge the bag if you want in some extra water on the side, add sparge runnings to the kettle, dissolve (half) your DME and bring to a boil.
DME dissolves both in cool or hot water. In hot water it tends to clump a bit more, just keep stirring it gently until it's all dissolved. DME tends to float, it doesn't sink to the bottom as LME does, so there is far less risk of scorching, but still scrape the bottom while stirring just in case something made it down there and got stuck.

The best thing with extract is, you don't need to boil for an hour. Often adding a bit more bittering hops to get the target IBU when doing a shorter boil (say 20-30' instead of 60') works fine.
 
Similar as with liquid malt, but don't bring to a boil first.

You steep (milled) grains at around 155F, for say 20-30 minutes, pull the bag, let drip out. Sparge the bag if you want in some extra water on the side, add sparge runnings to the kettle, dissolve (half) your DME and bring to a boil.
DME dissolves both in cool or hot water. In hot water it tends to clump a bit more, just keep stirring it gently until it's all dissolved. DME tends to float, it doesn't sink to the bottom as LME does, so there is far less risk of scorching, but still scrape the bottom while stirring just in case something made it down there and got stuck.

The best thing with extract is, you don't need to boil for an hour. Often adding a bit more bittering hops to get the target IBU when doing a shorter boil (say 20-30' instead of 60') works fine.
You don't need to boil at all, in my current situation boiling is problematic and I've been doing a series (3 so far) of no-boil batches that are turning out pretty good.
 
I technically don't get any. I've gone for flavor and aroma over bitterness.
I read on another discussion that even if you don't boil some IBUs still show up in lab testing.
Sure, steeped, hopstand, or whirlpool hops above 140F will still undergo some AA isomerization. Some hop oils are just bitter by themselves, judged by bitterness increases when dry hopping NEIPAs.

I prefer some solid bitterness though. In many NEIPAs (5.5 gallon batches) I only use 7 grams of Warrior, Nugget, or whatever I fancy, at 60'. All other bitterness is from large reduce temp whirlpool and dry hop additions. They're plenty bitter.
 
No-boil works pretty good with the malt forward styles and lightly bittered ones like mild and ordinary bitter.
 
Golden Light is darker kilned Pale Ale Malt based. Somewhat richer, deeper malt flavors (and color) than Pilsen.

Just wanted to point out that "Pale Malt" and "Pale Ale Malt" are different. "Pale Ale Malt" is a 3 to 4 L malt similar to a Maris Otter malt. I have to guess where the Briess page lists "Base Malt" they mean what is often called "Pale Malt" (though Briess calls their light colored malt [1.8 L] "Brewers Malt").

How much more hops does it take to get the same effect?

Given how NEIPAs have altered how brewers use hops, there is actual a lot of interesting research on this topic. The Master Brewers Podcast has had a few episodes on studies by professionals. Scott Janish has some interesting articles on this. Basic Brewing Radio had some hop samplers batches tested (only hops are around 1 oz per gal steeped at flameout for 20 minutes) and those beers test in the 30 to 40 IBU range. That said, it seems more and more that IBU is not a good measure of how bitter a beer is perceived.

An example of one of the Scott Janish studies: http://scottjanish.com/zero-hot-side-hopped-neipa-hplc-testing-sensory-bitterness/
 
I have to guess where the Briess page lists "Base Malt" they mean what is often called "Pale Malt" (though Briess calls their light colored malt [1.8 L] "Brewers Malt").

Good guess. From http://blog.brewingwithbriess.com/introducing-the-first-briess-single-malt-extracts/:

CBW® Pilsen Light malt extract : 99% Briess Pilsen Malt 1% Briess Carapils® Malt

CBW® Golden Light Malt: Briess Brewers Malt, and 1% Briess Carapils® Malt

CBW® Pale Ale malt extract: 100% Briess Pale Ale Malt


there is actual a lot of interesting research on this topic.

Also Hops and IPAs with Stan Hieronymus – BeerSmith Podcast #189
 
I wound up using 5lb of pils dme with a pound of golden light I had laying around, and 1lb of caramel 10L, the color looks pretty good, hopefully it tastes as good as it looks.
20190428_130515.jpeg
 
Back
Top