My maltzilla set at 0.75 mm no stuck mashes or sparges in my all in one.
I would say "don't take anyone's mill setting advice as gospel." Ok to look at a bunch of suggestions from different people to pick a starting point, but the crush, and how well it works in your system, is going to depend on the mill type, roller diameter, and RPM's, as well as the gap settings. Best to start at the higher range for gaps and work lower, to see just how fine you can go before things start plugging up.
I'm taking the approach of backing off a bit more each time until the mash no longer sticks. I really want to use the system as isI would say "don't take anyone's mill setting advice as gospel." Ok to look at a bunch of suggestions from different people to pick a starting point, but the crush, and how well it works in your system, is going to depend on the mill type, roller diameter, and RPM's, as well as the gap settings. Best to start at the higher range for gaps and work lower, to see just how fine you can go before things start plugging up.
Something to keep in mind is that you can't convert starch to sugar until after the starch is gelatinized, and time it takes to fully gelatinize the grits depends on the grit size, as well as temperature. Bigger grits take longer to gelatinize, and thus you need a longer mash to approach/achieve 100% conversion efficiency.
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You can greatly enhance the efficiency of your trial and error search for the perfect crush by doing a variation of the binary search algorithm.
Another option is to crush some of the malt at the other setting and add it to your original mash setting crush, it modifies the crush percentage change less depending on the proportions.You can greatly enhance the efficiency of your trial and error search for the perfect crush by doing a variation of the binary search algorithm.
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- Start by backing off a bit more than you think you need to
- If you don't get a stuck mash, then go to 3, otherwise go back to 1
- Next trial crush halfway between the setting in 1 and your previous setting
- If you get a stuck mash, back off to half way between the last setting that worked, and the current setting. If you didn't get stuck, then try half way between the current setting and the last setting that stuck.
- Repeat 4 until you are satisfied.
I did this out of the box after hearing about the challenges some were having with pump blockages.
I was able to get this working with a couple of different triggers with the newest firmware.I attached a couple of screenshots below. The first is a temperature trigger and the second is a step end trigger (mash at 170*F for 10 minutes).
Thanks for your response. Good to know I'm not alone. I was planning on making the hose and having my spare pump as a backup like you do.
I am running mine at .050 and getting just barely flowable mashes with my BZ 3.1.1. Than again, my mill is a Maltzilla and they say it works a bit differently than most mills (I don't know what the difference is, it just appears that they use a different type of surface to do the crushing), so that may make a difference. I am actually going to loosen mine up a tad for the next brew as I would prefer to have it flow just a bit better.
I have a hullwrecker from northern Brewer. I won't be testing this crush the next couple of brews as the grains I have are precrushed. Using grains from a local brewery the next few batches to see if there are still recirculation issues. If the hed is still available from morebeer tomorrow I'll be ordering that also.
Are you getting the temp alerts? I’ve done troubleshooting with KegLand probably dozen times but the temp alerts don’t work. I’m on newest firmware, other than temp calibration machine is at default settings. No luck, over and over.
Try 0.053 thats 1.35 mm metric and rice huls. No problem what do ever with my 65L gen4.
The bluetooth thermometer still was not available. I'm probably going to just put the HED through it's paces over the next couple of months and wait for the bluetooth thermometer supply to stabilize/normalize before biting the bullet. In the mean time I want to keep working on the recirculation issues so maybe just maybe there can be a ballpark crush guide line for these Gen 4's lol @JoepH do you stir during the mash and if so how often? Do you get low efficiency with that crush? I hit up TheHomebrewNetwork on youtube and they recommended backing all the way off to .054. That seems a little much but it may not be in the long run.
Do you have a link to the Bluetooth thermometer? I can’t find any listings for it on Morebeer or Williams.I put in an order for the HED this morning. It should be here by the end of next week. Will be putting it through it's paces on a Hornidal Hazy next weekend. Wanted an easy, toss everything in at whirlpool, and throw the fermenter in a dark room temperature place batch to try this on
I went here
My mill i have on a gap of 0.053 inch (1.35 mm) i mash in with the pump and heating of. After that it get 5 minutes rest. Then I stire again. After a few minutes I start circulating without the top plate. After 10 minutes I stire the upper 2/3 of the mash. The lower 1/3 ( filter) I don’t touch. I regulate my circulation with the valve. Iff it runs smootly I don’t stire anymore. Efficienty always between 75 and 80%.I put in an order for the HED this morning. It should be here by the end of next week. Will be putting it through it's paces on a Hornidal Hazy next weekend. Wanted an easy, toss everything in at whirlpool, and throw the fermenter in a dark room temperature place batch to try this on
I'm going to give that a go once the pre crushed grains are used up! It's almost like you and TheHomebrewNetwork might be on to something hahaha
Much experiance!I'm going to give that a go once the pre crushed grains are used up! It's almost like you and TheHomebrewNetwork might be on to something hahaha
Edit: I just ran about a half pound of malt through the grain mill and it looks much closer to the brewery grind than my previous grind. Hopefully that's all it was
Don’t forget your rice huls.Yes, the alerts are working now.
Slightly late to the party (hadn't checked the forum for a while!). Question on the brew bag: did you use it outside the malt pipe or inside? I used one for the first time on my Last brew outside the mash pipe and got fairly good results.
I used the over-sized one inside the malt pipe. But I now have a one that fits proper. I definitely intend to use it outside the malt pipe. This should not only allow for better circulation, but also allows the circulating sparge arm to fit better inside the pipe without getting tangled in the bag.
Awesome. Thx. The two alerts I actually care about are pretry close to some of yours. I want a temp alert around 200ish so I know when boil is about to hit. And an alert when mash out starts so I know when to come down and pull grains, sparge if necessary, etc.
Ah! Interesting. I did a hazy where all hops were only at Whirlpool and so I just used a spider but I'll consider leaving the bag in. Thank you!
hold up.
It is what I plan to do since I only got the fitted bag recently, since my last brew, but it is something a friend has already been doing numerous times. In fact, he doesn't use the pipe at all - just the bag. I wish to use the pipe as well so that I can sparge it easier than trying it in the bag. There is no issue doing it this way at all. It should catch almost all the grain and trub that goes through the large holes in the screens. My friend's beer comes out quite clear as it goes into the fermenter, clearer than by any other means.
I did a brew today and ran the system with Alerts and they worked for me. Whe you get the alerts do you see them here:
0.054 mm = ~0.002", that's a pretty narrow gap!. I believe you have misplaced a decimal point or gotten your units wrong.
Doh you're right! 0.054"0.054 mm = ~0.002", that's a pretty narrow gap!. I believe you have misplaced a decimal point or gotten your units wrong.
Brew on
No 1.37 mm is right!!
What mill and gap are you using? I'm using the 2 roller Hullwrecker from Northern Brewer
