For those that own a brewhemoth 2.0, do the legs allow for casters? I'd love to be able to wheel 15 gallons, rather then ensuring it's location for entire fermentation.
I'll run some tests as soon as I get the pump. I usually don't crank the heat on the PBW-mix above 150F but it's a valid point. For the price of the pump, it's worth the trial. Otherwise it's a much more expensive option for a CIP that is more for fun than function.
Brew on!
I used to use a similar pump to clean my kegs until it blew a seal and ran oil thru the kegs I was cleaning. I used hot tap water and Oxi which probably started at around 125-130 degrees but may have heated up more with the heat from the pump.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/more-keg-questions-can-cleaned-214185/
cfrazier77 said:These pumps claim to be oil-less.
Am leaning toward the chest freezer method, but still would not know how to make 5G (in a carboy) of lager first (as the yeast starter and to drink).
I have mine in a standup freezer with a Ranco controller. I bought a thermowell from brewers hardware. This setup is the best thing I have done for my brewing.
I get dead on ferm temps, can cold crash with ease and can lager if I desire. Plus it is efficient only having to maintain temps in the freezer takes minimum energy. Love it!
FSR402 said:got a link to the thermowell that you're using? Are you using it thru the top "blowoff" port?
FSR402 said:I ordered mine today with the drop in chiller. Now I need to figure out what all I need to buy for it.
What goodies are you all using with yours?
Squeeky said:Celtic,
If using a controller on the stand up freezer, could you avoid the thermowell. I realize the heat from the yeast doing their business would generate a few degrees more, but you could avoid all the addition stainless.
The only reason I ask is because my wife is looking for our 5yr anniv gift. I am seriously considering brewhemoth with ball valves and chiller. I just completed a new ebrewery with stainless 3-pieces so I'm going to avoid tri's on dump and rack.
FSR402 said:so now with that 20" thermowell you're using do you just stuff the temp prob from your controller inside the thermowell and call it good?
Just for the record, I do not work for Five Star Chemicals but I just wanted to report that I LOOOOOVE Liquid Circulation Cleaner #1 for my CIP solution. This caustic doesn't foam and does an amazing job of cleaning up the Brewhemoth. Even the crustiest of krausens! Seek this stuff out if you are doing a CIP!
jamcclureuk said:Guys, i am going to be ordering the triclover brewhemoth in the next few days. I am going to add a triclover ferrule to the front for a thermometer..... Is there anything else that you would recommend? Is there anything that you wish you had customized a bit?
jamcclureuk said:I'm not worried about the welds... these guys know what they're doing. The T with thermowell is a good idea, but I have grown accustomed to having the dial thermometer on the front.
I have one, and not to dig, but I would worry about the welds.
I just got mine yesterday. I got to say, the welds suck. I even have a spot on the inside weld at the top where someone took a pencil grinder to it. It looks bad. I will need to change how I do things on brew day with this. Thinking I'm going to heat sanitize it instead of starsan. Will be boiling 25 gallons of water, pumping it to the BH and let it sit until it's time to sparge. Then pump that water to my HLT for sparging. I figure if it sits full of 200+* water for 30 minutes or so that should kill anything hiding in the crappy welds.
My other complaint would be the legs. Really? 3/8 studs butt welded on and the legs have like 5/8 slots. They shipped it with some thin 3/8 washers to "take up the gap" though. LOL. Come on, if the legs have 5/8 slots why not just weld 5/8 studs on it?
I understand that for the price this is what you get and I may end up getting another one some day. But they could bo so much better
jamcclureuk said:Well crap, now I am rethinking my decision.![]()
Well crap, now I am rethinking my decision.![]()
FSR402 said:No don't.. I did not mean to bash the BH. For the money it is well worth it.
The BH could be better then it is yes, but, then you would end up paying twice as much for it. Like I said, I will more then likely buy another one some day. I'm not unhappy with it, I was just pointing out the "short comings" I found with it.
I have not used mine yet... but i have no worries about the welds as long as they don't leak.
Yes the welds are visible and not polished... but really i could care less... if i wanted polished welds i would have gone with the Blingmann and paid more for a unit without triclamp fittings.
When i spoke with josh on the phone after i got the tank damaged by UPS... he told me that it had happened before to other orders too and means UPS damaged it as they pressure test each hemoth before it goes out to make sure there are no weak points or holes in the welds. this means the welds should be more than fine. The top cap weld is a little on the rough side but that is expected without much room to get in and polish it like the bottom welds.
So far the only things noticed that i would change would be to see if the leg bolts could be a size bigger for the slots in the legs. also the top bolt is a touch low and it doesn't quite rest on the top of the notch it fits through like the bottom one does.
i would also love to have a 6"-8" tri-clamp fitting on top instead of 4"... this would make it easier to get into to polish the top cap weld and allow for more access by the brewer as well while still doing everything else the same
as of right now the larger TC fitting is not an option without a decent chunk of modification when they are made...this would raise the price by 20% or so i bet.
At some point i will break out the dremel and polish the inside of the cap welds... but for now im not worried about it.
the only thing i am worried about is if i put 18-20 gallons of juice to make wine in this thing...will the bolts still hold the tank up well? has anyone had any experience with this at all?
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