Brew stand build, in progress with pictures!

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It's finally home. We added the pot filler faucet and we need to plumb it to the filtered water line. The burners, pumps, chiller, and control panel will get installed in the next week and so will the black pipe for the LPG.

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It's finally home. We added the pot filler faucet and we need to plumb it to the filtered water line. The burners, pumps, chiller, and control panel will get installed in the next week and so will the black pipe for the LPG.

are those kegs in the cart/shelf in the lower right corner custom made? they look like a 15.5g sankey with the top of a 10g corney welded on..
 
Why yes they are custom 15.5 sanke kegs with a corney top welded on. I use them for fermentation. Love them!

I also have a custom corney lid that I had a thermowell welded in. This way I can monitor fermentation temperature and adjust heating or cooling devices in the fermentation chamber as needed. I put a stainless steel valve on the lower side of the sanke fermenter so I can take samples throughout the fermentation process. It has a racking type arm on the inside that let's me change the position from which I draw the sample. Works extremely well and fast.

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Why yes they are custom 15.5 sanke kegs with a corney top welded on. I use them for fermentation. Love them!

I also have a custom corney lid that I had a thermowell welded in. This way I can monitor fermentation temperature and adjust heating or cooling devices in the fermentation chamber as needed.

That is pretty darn slick. I've been considering putting bigger triclover fittings on some sankeys for use as fermentors.. but welding on a corney top is a cool idea..probably cheaper than the TC fittings too..
 
That is pretty darn slick. I've been considering putting bigger triclover fittings on some sankeys for use as fermentors.. but welding on a corney top is a cool idea..probably cheaper than the TC fittings too..

Yeh, I think it would cost less, too. Another great advantage with the sanke fermenter setup is that I can do a pressurize, closed system transfers to secondary or to a corney. Beer never is exposed to oxygen. Cleaning is kinda a biotch cause my arms are almost too big to fit through the corney opening, although I manage to get it done.
 
I just did a scan of the thread and first impression was "those are some great welds!" Really nice workmanship. I'm also jealous.
 
I just did a scan of the thread and first impression was "those are some great welds!" Really nice workmanship. I'm also jealous.

I wish I could say they were done by me. I agree with you in that the welder did an incredible job.
 
The top of the brew stand is made up of removable plates. This way we can easily clean or remove some plates if we find there is not enough heat displacement. We can also redesign and replace the plates where the kettles rest on if we need to.

You'll also notice the triangular cutouts on the back portion of each of the plates the kettles rest on. In theory, this will allow the heat to wash up the back of the kettle where there's no valves. We'll see how it works on its maiden voyage.

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Here's some details about the pot filler faucet.

We wanted a way to fill both the HLT and MT with a permanently setup filtered water connection that was easier to use than just simply running my filtered water hose to each kettle.

On the brew stand there is a virticaly extended piece of 1 by 1 inch square steel that has a plate welded at the top where a stainless steel pot filler faucet can be attached. We are going to connect the faucet to some pex line and run it down the inside of the vertical steel piece of metal. At the bottom of the steel piece there will be a sharkbite elbow that a 3/4 inch hose fitting can connect to. It is also setup with a brass quick connect/disconnect fittings for ease of use. We'll then run a coiled rv hose that is connected to a 10 mic filter.

Here's some pics of the setup, minus the pex line.

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Copy of Water supply line connection.jpg
 
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