Brew Bucket by SS Brewing Technologies

[radwizard]

Thank you for the replies. I transfered another beer today and think I solved my co2 woes...
I think my biggest problem was following the gauge of the regulator, which is not very accurate at these low levels. I also adjusted my clamps a little tighter.

My co2 gauge starts at 4 psi and then goes up every 2 psi. I always put the needle half way between 0 and 4. Today I just turned it up until I heard gas, and saw the beer flowing. I then checked the needle, which was actually resting on zero. The transfer went well. I am not gonna rely on the gauge anymore and be more conservative with the gas.

 

[philly224]

Thank you for the replies. I transfered another beer today and think I solved my co2 woes...
I think my biggest problem was following the gauge of the regulator, which is not very accurate at these low levels. I also adjusted my clamps a little tighter.

My co2 gauge starts at 4 psi and then goes up every 2 psi. I always put the needle half way between 0 and 4. Today I just turned it up until I heard gas, and saw the beer flowing. I then checked the needle, which was actually resting on zero. The transfer went well. I am not gonna rely on the gauge anymore and be more conservative with the gas.

Interesting, maybe that was my issue as well!

 

[radwizard]

Interesting, maybe that was my issue as well!

Yeah, try it out. And check out SS's faqs about adjusting your clamps.

 

[steeve]

Hello HBT community. I have been looking into getting a 10gal brew kettle and there are so many companies out there (Anvil, Spike Brewing, BrewTech...). All brew buckets being equal (SS 304 stainless steel, 18 gauge, etc.), is there a real advantage in the opening for the spiggot being spot-welded vs not? Price is obviously a consideration (comparing the SS brew kettle vs the Blichmann G2 Boilermaker), but at the end of the day, with my limited experience in home brewing, I just want to be able to make 5 gallon batches and easily transfer the wort from the kettle to my fermenter. And the SS brewtech 10gal brew kettle looks very appealing. Your thoughts are welcomed. Thanks.

 

[dunnry]

Hello HBT community. I have been looking into getting a 10gal brew kettle and there are so many companies out there (Anvil, Spike Brewing, BrewTech...). All brew buckets being equal (SS 304 stainless steel, 18 gauge, etc.), is there a real advantage in the opening for the spiggot being spot-welded vs not? Price is obviously a consideration (comparing the SS brew kettle vs the Blichmann G2 Boilermaker), but at the end of the day, with my limited experience in home brewing, I just want to be able to make 5 gallon batches and easily transfer the wort from the kettle to my fermenter. And the SS brewtech 10gal brew kettle looks very appealing. Your thoughts are welcomed. Thanks.

I would definitely start a new thread and ask or search for previous ones about SS Brewtech kettle. This thread is about a brew bucket (fermenter) and not a kettle.

 

[augiedoggy]

Hello HBT community. I have been looking into getting a 10gal brew kettle and there are so many companies out there (Anvil, Spike Brewing, BrewTech...). All brew buckets being equal (SS 304 stainless steel, 18 gauge, etc.), is there a real advantage in the opening for the spiggot being spot-welded vs not? Price is obviously a consideration (comparing the SS brew kettle vs the Blichmann G2 Boilermaker), but at the end of the day, with my limited experience in home brewing, I just want to be able to make 5 gallon batches and easily transfer the wort from the kettle to my fermenter. And the SS brewtech 10gal brew kettle looks very appealing. Your thoughts are welcomed. Thanks.

Its personal preference.. some claim weldless fittings dont work for them and others (like myself) have been using them for years without a single issue... if your a particular type of person that feels they need to keep disassembling to clean and sanitize everything on the hot side where this does not need to be done then I suggest welded

There is zero difference in how well they work to make beer and the quality of the beer. (just as there is zero difference in whether they are 304,316 201 or some other grade of stainless normally used in the kitchen. (304 and 316 are for industrial and commercial breweries where caustic cleaners are used that home brewers will not be using. its just a marketing gimmick for uneducated consumers in this market like a 4k tv for the countless people using them to watch nothing more than low quality 1080i (540p) resolution content from their cable or tv provider which actually looks worse scaled up to 3800 line of resolution in most cases just like SD looks worse on a HD tv.

EDIT I just realized this was an off topic post..

 

[steeve]

My inexperience shows... Thanks for the tips. I will look for an appropriate thread and/or start a new one.

 

[shoengine]

Pressure (atmospheric) transfers for the win.

I'm never going back. Well, except when I empty out the barrel.

 

[shoengine]

I replaced the feet on mine. The stock rubber pads are terrible.

 

[orionol73]

"D" is 4 5/8". The top of the leg is actually even with the base of the cone, so it is a little different than your drawing. Unfortunately I can't measure anything else since it's currently crammed into the mini fridge.

I can tell you one other thing that may help. Mine is in a Vissani 52 bottle wine cooler/mini fridge with a 12" deep flat floor before the compressor hump, which itself is 7" tall. The compressor hump is itself 6" deep for a total depth is 18". The fermenter seems to be only 13" wide at the top, so it leans over the compressor hump by less than an inch.

Hope you can make it work, I love mine.

Do you have a picture of your set-up? I believe I have the same fridge and am wondering if the brew bucket will fit

Thanks!

 

[Horseflesh]

It fits that Vissanni fridge very easily.

 

[orionol73]

It fits that Vissanni fridge very easily.

Like a charm, perfect thanks so much!

 

[radwizard]

Has anyone mounted the coils of their bucket onto the side for use with the domed lid? I have seen SS's guide for doing this with the Conical, but no mention of the bucket. I wanted to get details of the best placement for the coils and thermowell. I am interested if the thermowell ends up getting to close to the coils effecting its reading.

Thanks!

 

[makubex]

Has anyone mounted the coils of their bucket onto the side for use with the domed lid? I have seen SS's guide for doing this with the Conical, but no mention of the bucket. I wanted to get details of the best placement for the coils and thermowell. I am interested if the thermowell ends up getting to close to the coils effecting its reading.

Thanks!

You should try shooting SS Brewtech an email. If they've intended for the coils to be run through the side of the brew bucket, I'm sure they have a schematic/technical drawing illustrating where the holes should be drilled, etc.

 

[devils4ever]

After reading this thread, I want one! Does anyone have an opinion of whether the Brewmaster Edition is worth the extra $$$ for the temperature probe? It seems like a good thing, but it's another possible place for infections.

 

[brewbama]

After reading this thread, I want one! Does anyone have an opinion of whether the Brewmaster Edition is worth the extra $$$ for the temperature probe? It seems like a good thing, but it's another possible place for infections.

I installed a 10” thermowell thru the lid so my controller tells we what temp the ferment is. I didn’t need another temp probe. YMMV.

 

[brewstergalVT]

After reading this thread, I want one! Does anyone have an opinion of whether the Brewmaster Edition is worth the extra $$$ for the temperature probe? It seems like a good thing, but it's another possible place for infections.

I didn't get the Brewmaster Edition as I was wondering the same thing...and wondered what would happen if the temp probe stopped working. Could I get a replacement, etc., etc.. What I do instead is use an infared thermometer on the outside of the Brewbucket (masking tape on the bucket as the infared isn't accurate on the shiny surface) and surprisingly it's quite accurate as compared to the temp of actual samples. During active fermentation the readings will vary depending on where I measure on the outside, most accurate is in the middle of the outside of the vessel. The infared thermometer was less than $25 for a dual laser (Etekcity lasergrip 630) and good for many other applications. Just another option, hope that helps.

 

[augiedoggy]

temp probes coming down from the center of the lid will usually be more accurate. At least thats what I found with my conicals. plus one less thing you have to take apart since SS doesnt install a sanitary thermowell for this but rather a weldless fitting. the lid almost always stays clean on my conicals.

 

[orionol73]

I stick the temp probe for my ferm chamber controller into the thermowell. It’s amazing the improvement over the old taping it to the side of the fermenter! You should get a thermowell, whether thru the side or the lid, you will be glad you did

 

[Horseflesh]

I got the Brewmaster Edition because I wanted the thermowell for my chamber temp probe. I didn't want to put a thermowell in the lid, because I am using silicone hose blowoff tube in the airlock hole. I'd need to use a smaller hose and share the port, or drill another port... Neither option excited me.

 

[augiedoggy]

I got the Brewmaster Edition because I wanted the thermowell for my chamber temp probe. I didn't want to put a thermowell in the lid, because I am using silicone hose blowoff tube in the airlock hole. I'd need to use a smaller hose and share the port, or drill another port... Neither option excited me.

I use a tri clamp tee with the blow off hose coming out the side port and the thermowell going down the top. When using the sidewall thermowell I found my glycol was cycling more often likely due to the cooling jacket on my conicals. the top thermowell is not effected by this.

 

[Konadog]

After reading this thread, I want one! Does anyone have an opinion of whether the Brewmaster Edition is worth the extra $$$ for the temperature probe? It seems like a good thing, but it's another possible place for infections.

I have the Brewmaster Edition, but only because I got it for less than a standard one. Is it worth it, well there are other ways (see above) of doing the same thing cheaper. Your really paying for the temp probe and thermowell, and your not going to use the temp probe.

 

[devils4ever]

I decided to go with the base model (not Brewmaster). I placed the order with SSBT! Can't wait for it to come in! Does anyone know what kind of shipping times they have? I'd love to use this on my next batch on Saturday.

 

[shoengine]

I got the Brewmaster Edition because I wanted the thermowell for my chamber temp probe. I didn't want to put a thermowell in the lid, because I am using silicone hose blowoff tube in the airlock hole. I'd need to use a smaller hose and share the port, or drill another port... Neither option excited me.

I drilled mine in an afternoon. I did have to buy the drill bit, but it was only $10 and s few hours later I had a very nice, burr-less hole.

 

[Morrey]

I drilled mine in an afternoon. I did have to buy the drill bit, but it was only $10 and s few hours later I had a very nice, burr-less hole.

Yep, the step drill bit at Harbor Freight was not expensive at all. I found a nifty trick that may be useful as you drill into SS if you go that route. SS is considered to be hard to drill but I haven't found this to be the case if you keep the drill bit cool as you drill. I filled a mister/spritzer bottle with water and had my wife continually mist the area and bit while I drilled my pilot hole, then shifted to the step bit. Continual misting provided lubrication but also cools the bit which prevents heat galling the bit where you run into issues. I have drilled several ports into kettles plus ports into fermenters w/o the first problem. Drill slowly as this is the best approach.

 

[augiedoggy]

just rememeber to drill SLOW and everything should go fine, drill too fast you create heat and harden the surface while trashing the drill bit.
I have many step bits and the punch kit from HF and have drilled a couple dozen holes now.

 

[MX1]

I drilled mine in an afternoon. I did have to buy the drill bit, but it was only $10 and s few hours later I had a very nice, burr-less hole.

This is the way I see me doing it, and while I am at it, might make the predrilled stopper hole a tad bigger to accept regular fittings

 

[Morrey]

After reading this thread, I want one! Does anyone have an opinion of whether the Brewmaster Edition is worth the extra $$$ for the temperature probe? It seems like a good thing, but it's another possible place for infections.

I used a couple of these buckets for several years and was pleased, so I wanted to address your concerns regarding sanitation and areas for bacterial infections to hide. The fittings for both the thermowell and the racking valve are best to take apart and clean well and sanitize between uses. These fittings are very easy to disassemble for cleaning, and in fact can be tightened finger tight w/o tools. You don't want to torque too tightly as this will push the o rings out of place and cause leaking.

One of the buckets I bought did not have a thermowell so I drilled one in. I used it to place my Inkbird probe so it would control my chest freezer functioning as a fermentation chamber. You can also use a LCD thermometer that slips into the thermowell...they are inexpensive to replace, and can monitor the internal wort temp if you are fermenting in ambient temps.

One last thing...these buckets can be outfitted with an FTS system so a cooler with ice bottles, glycol chillers or other devices can cool (or heat) your fermenter.

 

[augiedoggy]

These work well too and are much easier since to dont have fittings in the lid or a coil to clean. I only use my ss coil conical when my others are full for this reason.
http://www.gotta-brew.com/products/cool-zone-cooling-jacket.html

 

[shoengine]

Yep, the step drill bit at Harbor Freight was not expensive at all. I found a nifty trick that may be useful as you drill into SS if you go that route. SS is considered to be hard to drill but I haven't found this to be the case if you keep the drill bit cool as you drill. I filled a mister/spritzer bottle with water and had my wife continually mist the area and bit while I drilled my pilot hole, then shifted to the step bit. Continual misting provided lubrication but also cools the bit which prevents heat galling the bit where you run into issues. I have drilled several ports into kettles plus ports into fermenters w/o the first problem. Drill slowly as this is the best approach.

I used cutting oil, but the result was exactly the same. Work-hardening your steel when you don't want to is a tad annoying!

 

[JDWebb]

Here's my twins.

SSB4

• JDWebb
• Sep 10, 2018
• 2

The twins.

 

[devils4ever]

I didn't get the Brewmaster Edition as I was wondering the same thing...and wondered what would happen if the temp probe stopped working. Could I get a replacement, etc., etc.. What I do instead is use an infared thermometer on the outside of the Brewbucket (masking tape on the bucket as the infared isn't accurate on the shiny surface) and surprisingly it's quite accurate as compared to the temp of actual samples. During active fermentation the readings will vary depending on where I measure on the outside, most accurate is in the middle of the outside of the vessel. The infared thermometer was less than $25 for a dual laser (Etekcity lasergrip 630) and good for many other applications. Just another option, hope that helps.

My Brewbucket is coming Friday! I also ordered the Etekcity 630 thermometer as you recommended. I should be able to use this as well for the checking my mash temperature, correct?

 

[JDWebb]

My twins, pictured in a post above, are temperature controlled. I use a hydroponics chiller (under $400) to circulate chilled water between it and a small cooler. I can circulate chilled (40º F) water through the two immersion chillers via pumps, plus each have a heating element under the neoprene insulation jacket of which both are controlled by dual STC-1000's. I can get temps within 1 degree hot or cold. It will also allow me to lager if I choose. These are great little brew buckets for doing beer, mead and wine in. Each holds 7 gallons to the brim, but will easily hold 6 gallons, I wouldn't do any more than that.

 

[brew703]

For those doing pressure transfers, did you install a gas post to the lid? Also if drilling a hole in the lid, is a titanium step drill bit the way to go? Thinking about adding a thermowell in addition to the gas post.

 

[RevKev]

For those doing pressure transfers, did you install a gas post to the lid? Also if drilling a hole in the lid, is a titanium step drill bit the way to go? Thinking about adding a thermowell in addition to the gas post.

Hole saw, if you have them. Stepper bits work well too. Really there isn't just one way to go at this, if you're using a dull bit sharper it or provide it with some cutting fluid.

Can't speak for the pressure transfers. But I have seen people use the domed lid with the triclamp.

 

[MX1]

The Anvil FIAK has the outside sealing gasket that is either a tad to small or tad to big depending on if you go with the 5 or 7 gallon version, think I am going to add that to the SSBT to help seal during pressure transfers, which is the next step in the process after I add a thermowell

 

[NewJersey]

How did you attatch that fitting to the lid??

Edit-i may have posted on the wrong page/thread. I was referring to a pic where a guy did pressure transfers.

 

[shoengine]

For those doing pressure transfers, did you install a gas post to the lid? Also if drilling a hole in the lid, is a titanium step drill bit the way to go? Thinking about adding a thermowell in addition to the gas post.

Chronical lid for the win.

It can be done cheaper, but about $130 gives me more headspace and I can now blowoff directly from the lid without a cludgey airlock-to-blowoff setup with a rubber cork, a 3in hole to dry hop from, and a pressure transfer setup.

 

[Kealia]

I'll take a pic of my next brew day/fermentation. I use a 90-degree join to attach a blowoff tube in the lid when fermentation is done I then attach my CO2 tank to the tubing for a pressure transfer.

 

[Wagon_6]

I'll take a pic of my next brew day/fermentation. I use a 90-degree join to attach a blowoff tube in the lid when fermentation is done I then attach my CO2 tank to the tubing for a pressure transfer.

Do you use their 90 degree blow elbow for this? I’m contemplating the actual pressure transfer kit. I guess the main benefit there is the relief valve preventing total destruction.