Brew Bucket by SS Brewing Technologies

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Another picture of the lid assembly that gives you a bit more headroom for krausen and to make it easier to use an aeration wand and to add dry hops. YMMV. Works for me.

BrewBucketDomedLid728.jpg


I updated my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP guide as well with a list of parts: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/brew-day-step-by-step?page=11

Kal
 
took a gravity reading last night... god I love having a valve. Neeeeever going back to my glass carboy again.
 
Another picture of the lid assembly that gives you a bit more headroom for krausen and to make it easier to use an aeration wand and to add dry hops. YMMV. Works for me.

BrewBucketDomedLid728.jpg


I updated my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP guide as well with a list of parts: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/brew-day-step-by-step?page=11

Kal

Why did you choose to use a threaded barb as opposed to 3" to 1.5" reducer and then standard 1.5 " tri-clamp 90 degree 1" diameter barb? Was it headroom issue in fridge (i.e. too tall)? I find that much easier to clean and keep from getting plugged up.

Does your 3" tri-clamp cap have the pressure relieve spring in it? If so, doesn't that get gummed up too? I have that particular barb (with original BrewBucket lid) and it has clogged on me with WY3787, which caused the sides of the BrewBucket to blow out and leak. Total mess...
 
Why did you choose to use a threaded barb as opposed to 3" to 1.5" reducer and then standard 1.5 " tri-clamp 90 degree 1" diameter barb? Was it headroom issue in fridge (i.e. too tall)?
Yup. Not only is it less height to do it the way I did but it's also less cost (less parts) and less tri-clover clamps and gaskets to deal with (so less work too).

I find that much easier to clean and keep from getting plugged up.
Really? I wouldn't think it would make much of a difference and the extra volume you'd get for krausen to sit in from the reducer is probably only 6-8 oz no? It's higher, but krausen can go anywhere. As soon as the reducer fills, it would just keep pushing forward.

Does your 3" tri-clamp cap have the pressure relieve spring in it?
Yup! The standard spring loaded one they often include that is said to blow at around 2 to 2.5 PSI.

If so, doesn't that get gummed up too?
I've only brewed one batch so far, approx 5.5 gallons in the buckets, fermented with WLP002 in one and WLP095 in the other and the krausen wasn't high enough to get near the blow-off/pressure relieve valve.

I have that particular barb (with original BrewBucket lid) and it has clogged on me with WY3787, which caused the sides of the BrewBucket to blow out and leak. Total mess...
I can imagine! You're blow off hose or airlock would of course also have to get plugged up. I'm using 1/2" ID hose so it's pretty huge and thick walled so that it holds the shape well and doesn't kink so I'm hoping (knock on wood) that it would be fairly difficult for it to get plugged. (Airlocks on the other hand are fairly easy to plug given the small diameter opening.) I'll know next time I use WY3068 (weizen) - that stuff has crazy krausen!

Kal
 
When you guys rack, how do you position the dip tube? I have been starting off with he dip tube vertical facing up. Then just keeping my eye on it and rotating it down near the end when I can see the top.
I kind of had issues today when I wasn't able to rotate it in time and at the flow stopped. I couldn't get the flow to start again and ended up losing some beer.
Is there a better way I could be doing this?
This was my 5th batch, and I never had any problems before. Im kind of stumped on what went wrong...

I've always filled my fermenter (Chronical 7g) with dip tube pointed up, and found on all batches that as I rotated down I didn't pickup trub, this has been 2yrs now, many batches! This year I got two mini-brew buckets as I want to split batches to try different yeasts. I racked last w/e and had same result, could fully turn down w/o disturbing trub. Maybe the brew bucket dimensions are different? Also, I've never had issue with it restarting after flow stopped, but maybe it never completely stopped when I was below horizontal, idk.

I stopped using the dip tube after two batches. It's easier for me to just tilt slightly at the end of the transfer and to not have to worry about a siphon or dip tube angle.

Did you find if you left dip tube down you pull up trub? Again, I use the Chronical 7g & now mini-brew buckets and haven't seen this occur yet to the best of my memory.
 
Another picture of the lid assembly that gives you a bit more headroom for krausen and to make it easier to use an aeration wand and to add dry hops. YMMV. Works for me.

BrewBucketDomedLid728.jpg


I updated my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP guide as well with a list of parts: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/brew-day-step-by-step?page=11

Kal
Nice mod Kal... Wish I would have thought of that... I went with a NorCal TC fitting for my SS Brewtech buckets. Having the bubble top definitely helps (photo is fermentation remnants of a Robust Cream Ale - Gordon Strong recipe).

2016_0922Tilt_sm.jpg


BucketTOP_tilt.jpg
 
Yup. Not only is it less height to do it the way I did but it's also less cost (less parts) and less tri-clover clamps and gaskets to deal with (so less work too).
It's $45.90 + shipping for your setup vs $41.50 + shipping at BrewersHardware.com (including reducer, barb, flange, and clamp). I don't think cost is a deciding factor, but the 'standard' parts are cheaper. However, if it won't fit... well, it won't fit! I will note cleaning it easier below for other reasons. Also, note, I use the 3" domed lid with barb for my 14 gal Chronical and I use the normal flat lid with the 17mm barb you are using with my BrewBucket.

Really? I wouldn't think it would make much of a difference and the extra volume you'd get for krausen to sit in from the reducer is probably only 6-8 oz no? It's higher, but krausen can go anywhere. As soon as the reducer fills, it would just keep pushing forward.
Definitely - I have yet to clog the 1" hose. The 17mm opening has been plugged solid a couple times on me. Now, that being said, I was using the original lid. You are using a domed lid which will definitely get you more headroom and enough you might never see the issue.

Yup! The standard spring loaded one they often include that is said to blow at around 2 to 2.5 PSI.

I've only brewed one batch so far, approx 5.5 gallons in the buckets, fermented with WLP002 in one and WLP095 in the other and the krausen wasn't high enough to get near the blow-off/pressure relieve valve.
I actually dislike the pressure relief valves on the Chronical. It's one of their biggest faults in my mind. I ended up buying the 3" lid specifically because it does NOT have one so I could do a proper pressure transfer with my conical. The relief valve would constantly release at well under 1 psi and waste loads of CO2. I would consider getting the 3" domed lid for my BB if only to re-use the 17mm barb except for the pressure relief valve on the cap with 17mm hole. Seems like it would be a pain to clean krausen out of the spring.

I can imagine! You're blow off hose or airlock would of course also have to get plugged up. I'm using 1/2" ID hose so it's pretty huge and thick walled so that it holds the shape well and doesn't kink so I'm hoping (knock on wood) that it would be fairly difficult for it to get plugged. (Airlocks on the other hand are fairly easy to plug given the small diameter opening.) I'll know next time I use WY3068 (weizen) - that stuff has crazy krausen!
Kal
That barb that got clogged was sitting a couple inches above the wort (6 gals or so). The issue was not the hose per se, the blow off actually worked well for awhile. At 17mm, the opening of the barb had a small build up that stuck there and continued to grow. When it finally got stuck full up, the clamps on the side were apparently weaker than the krausen plug and... ugh. Cleaning that barb was a bit of a pain - getting it out of the threads. It eventually worked free with PBW soak and scrub brush.

The barb and reducer are definitely easier to clean. You can literally just pitch them into a bit of PBW and they clean out easily (fingers fit and they are smooth!). I throw them into either my CIP bucket when I clean my conical or into the basin for Mark's Keg washer. They come out nice and clean without scrubbing, while the krausen managed to loosen but stay in that threaded barb.

As I said earlier however - if that setup won't fit, then you really don't have much else of a choice. Just be aware that those 17mm barbs definitely do clog. :)
 
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I was going through this process before Christmas as I was downsizing my equipment to 5 gallons and less and couldn't find anything... I ended up getting two of these:

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/126-can-dsv-in-club-886159/prod18910248.ip?xid=plp:product:1:1

They fit a brewbucket perfectly... not much space for anything else but my heater and blow-off collection vessel. I think the domed lit might fit fine, but not sure if you could do anything beyond that aside from an elbow off the top (I use the flat tops modified with a barbed outlet that has a silicone tube down to one of Jay's Krausen collectors). I'm really happy with them so far, one is controlled by a DIY Brewpi with the second to get that control soon once I build out the extra Arduino/Relay/Probe setup.
 
Nice mod Kal... Wish I would have thought of that... I went with a NorCal TC fitting for my SS Brewtech buckets. Having the bubble top definitely helps (photo is fermentation remnants of a Robust Cream Ale - Gordon Strong recipe).
How do you clean those arms (and are sure they are clean)? After my 17mm barb mishap, all new blow-offs have to be 1" for me. That opening looks like 1/2" (~13mm) and begging to be plugged.
 
It's $45.90 + shipping for your setup vs $41.50 + shipping at BrewersHardware.com (including reducer, barb, flange, and clamp).
Ah! Ok, if not using SSBrewtech parts maybe it's cheaper elsewhere. That said, are you sure about $41.50? You need a 1.5" flange with barb on it ($12), the reducer ($20), and two sets of tri-clover clamps and gaskets (not one) at 3" at $7.50 and 1.5" at $5.50 plus $2 for gaskets, for a total of about $47. Like you said, it's not the price though - it's about the same, but it won't fit in my fridge. ;)

Definitely - I have yet to clog the 1" hose.
Ok - that's a lot bigger then. My pricing above probably changes too then but like you said, whatever, if it won't fit it doesn't matter how cheap it is. ;)

You are using a domed lid which will definitely get you more headroom and enough you might never see the issue.
Yup. Hope so. That was one of the reasons to get it. The dome was covered in krausen at the end of fermentation but had zero blow-off. Had I used the standard flat lid I would have definitely had some blow-off.

I actually dislike the pressure relief valves on the Chronical. It's one of their biggest faults in my mind.
I can't say I'm a huge fan of it either after seeing it in person. I'd prefer nothing at all, but I understand why they include one.

Seems like it would be a pain to clean krausen out of the spring.
Agreed. For small stuff like that I tend to put it in a stainless bowl and spray with liquid Oxiclean or PBW plus hot water and just leave it for 24 hours.

Kal
 
How do you clean those arms (and are sure they are clean)? After my 17mm barb mishap, all new blow-offs have to be 1" for me. That opening looks like 1/2" (~13mm) and begging to be plugged.

I soak the crap out of them using Craftmeister Alkaline Brewery Wash.
 
Ah! Ok, if not using SSBrewtech parts maybe it's cheaper elsewhere. That said, are you sure about $41.50? You need a 1.5" flange with barb on it ($12), the reducer ($20), and two sets of tri-clover clamps and gaskets (not one) at 3" at $7.50 and 1.5" at $5.50 plus $2 for gaskets, for a total of about $47. Like you said, it's not the price though - it's about the same, but it won't fit in my fridge. ;)
I was only including the differences. You require a 3" clamp and o-ring in both scenarios, right? So, for yours, the delta is 17mm barb ($18) + 3" cap with 17mm hole and pressure valve ($28). That's $46 (45.90). For mine, 1.5" clamp ($5.50), gasket ($1), 1" 90 degree hose barb ($15), and reducer ($20) - hence the $41.50. I don't think SS Brewtech even sells a 1" 90 degree barb.

P.S., the price on 3" clamp and 3" o-ring at BrewersHardware.com vs SS Brewtech is $8.70 vs $10.30. So, there is actually a bit more savings if you shopped all at BrewersHardware.com.
 
When you guys rack, how do you position the dip tube? I have been starting off with he dip tube vertical facing up. Then just keeping my eye on it and rotating it down near the end when I can see the top.
I kind of had issues today when I wasn't able to rotate it in time and at the flow stopped. I couldn't get the flow to start again and ended up losing some beer.
Is there a better way I could be doing this?
This was my 5th batch, and I never had any problems before. Im kind of stumped on what went wrong...

I face it horizontally (as per the instructions). Then once I can actually see it I rotate as needed, even if needed.
 
OK. So I have a single fast ferment. Due to the size it's the only thing I can fit in my fridge for fermentation. The 7 gallon brew bucket I can fit 2 of them. Does it really matter that I can dump the trub and dead yeast? These things look impressive.
 
If you're racking off or packaging your beer after primary I wouldn't be concerned at all with being able to dump the trub- it'll have no effect on your fermentation or the beer.
 
If you're racking off or packaging your beer after primary I wouldn't be concerned at all with being able to dump the trub- it'll have no effect on your fermentation or the beer.

What I'm after is being able to keg right out of the bucket. I don't want to use a secondary. I do dry hop a lot though
 
You can do that... I don't secondary either. I do have to lift the bucket out of my fridge and then I just put it on the table and gravity drain into a purged keg with the PRV unscrewed. Drains in about 15 minutes without any issues.

I'm not sure how much dry hopping would affect things as I haven't done a big dry hop batch yet, but I suspect it would be similar to the conical I had... just turn the racking arm above the detritus and you'll be good.
 
What I'm after is being able to keg right out of the bucket. I don't want to use a secondary. I do dry hop a lot though

My last batch I racked right into a keg. Sanitize outside of valve, sanitize hose. Turn valve... done. Was literally the easiest kegging day ever.

Cleaning it was quite nice as well. Its light enough I can hold it sideways on my sink and just rinsed the biggest pile of crap out first.

Filled with hot water soaked with pbw, a mild scrub later and spotless again.
 

Is it worth it to you? Doesnt matter what we think.

I didnt get one of those as the buckets were cheaper, I can fit two of them in my ferm fridge, I do 5g batches so I dont need bigger. I would have had no way to control temps of a true conical just due to the size and I didnt want to invest more money into temp control when I already have a temp control solution.
 
Is it worth it to you? Doesnt matter what we think.

I didnt get one of those as the buckets were cheaper, I can fit two of them in my ferm fridge, I do 5g batches so I dont need bigger. I would have had no way to control temps of a true conical just due to the size and I didnt want to invest more money into temp control when I already have a temp control solution.

I have a fridge I can fit two 7 gallon buckets but only 7 gallon conical... Hmm. I guess secondary fermentation is not that popular anymore. I do keg my beer also so I guess that's OK. I am just looking for the most bang for my buck. I guess getting 2 buckets would do it...
 
OK. So I have a single fast ferment. Due to the size it's the only thing I can fit in my fridge for fermentation. The 7 gallon brew bucket I can fit 2 of them. Does it really matter that I can dump the trub and dead yeast? These things look impressive.
That depends 100% on how *you* like to brew, the process *you* like to use. There is no one better or worse way that makes better (or worse) beer.

Like skraeling said, it doesn't matter what we think. It matters how you brew / what your needs are.

Good luck!

Kal
 
I've given my 2 cents re conicals at the small batch (5-10gallons) elsewhere on these forums but after running around 20 batches through an SSB chronical, I simply didn't see the advantages so sold it and replaced it with a couple SSB brew buckets and a couple of new beverage coolers for about the same price as I paid for the chronical and the various attachments I bought.

To each their own though... plenty of folks use them and swear by them so take my opinion with a grain of salt!
 
I have a fridge I can fit two 7 gallon buckets but only 7 gallon conical... Hmm. I guess secondary fermentation is not that popular anymore. I do keg my beer also so I guess that's OK. I am just looking for the most bang for my buck. I guess getting 2 buckets would do it...

I'd love to have the features on those conicals but my fermentation chamber is a chest freezer so it wouldn't fit. Even if I wasn't brewing 10g batches I'd want to be able to store two 5g batches in my fermentation chamber. I just filled it today with 2nd high gravity beer. For me the key was being able to fit 2 at the same time.
 
I appreciate everyone's input. It made me think and dig for more research. I am going with brew buckets. Smaller, cheaper, I can fit 2 and easier to clean.... Plus trub vs no trub in fermentation and not using a secondary doesn't have much effect on taste...
 
I've given my 2 cents re conicals at the small batch (5-10gallons) elsewhere on these forums but after running around 20 batches through an SSB chronical, I simply didn't see the advantages so sold it and replaced it with a couple SSB brew buckets and a couple of new beverage coolers for about the same price as I paid for the chronical and the various attachments I bought.

To each their own though... plenty of folks use them and swear by them so take my opinion with a grain of salt!

Bucket is 1/2 price of Chronical. Were the coolers and various attachments free?! :).

Assuming you harvest yeast, didn't you find it less risky for infection w/Chronical than brew bucket? I just got mini brew buckets to split batches for different yeasts and poured out slurry from the bucket (easy!), but feel like harvesting from my Chronical is "cleaner".
 
For sure harvesting yeast from a conical is easier than the bucket, but like I said, I don't harvest, I overbuild starters so that advantage of the conical is wasted on me.

I had the 14 gallon conical and about $350 in various enhancements... stubby butterfly valves, a more beer yeast harvester (which basically went unused after the first two or three batches when I moved to overbuilding) and a sampling valve. So I was able to get two buckets and a couple of $160 beverage fridges from Sams with the proceeds of my sale.
 
For sure harvesting yeast from a conical is easier than the bucket, but like I said, I don't harvest, I overbuild starters so that advantage of the conical is wasted on me.

I had the 14 gallon conical and about $350 in various enhancements... stubby butterfly valves, a more beer yeast harvester (which basically went unused after the first two or three batches when I moved to overbuilding) and a sampling valve. So I was able to get two buckets and a couple of $160 beverage fridges from Sams with the proceeds of my sale.

I must have missed you overbuild and not harvest, I assumed most harvest if they have a conical. Any reason you made that choice?

Being new to the (mini) bucket, anyone here harvest from their buckets as I did?(swirl and pour). Curious on how that's worked for others as conical harvesting has worked well for me.
 
I must have missed you overbuild and not harvest, I assumed most harvest if they have a conical. Any reason you made that choice?

Being new to the (mini) bucket, anyone here harvest from their buckets as I did?(swirl and pour). Curious on how that's worked for others as conical harvesting has worked well for me.

Do you add warm to swirl and harvest?
 
I must have missed you overbuild and not harvest, I assumed most harvest if they have a conical. Any reason you made that choice?

I did harvest the first couple of batches of the conical, but both cases I ended up with very 'hoppy' yeast (due to the styles I brewed) and both re-pitches had longer lag times than I expected. After that, I changed my process to overbuild starters instead... much easier and results in 'clean' yeast with little if any trub (only that from the starter wort) and zero dry hop matter.
 
Hello Kal,

First off, thank you very much for what you are doing here...we all appreciate it. At least, we should lol.

Regarding the setup with your buckets and the new Danby fridges, just wondering where you put a temp probe or if you even use one? I would initially be a bit concerned with temp of liquid rather than ambient. Thoughts?
:mug:
They're 4.0 cubic feet in size, Danby DWL458BLS wine fridges, shelves removed, no modifications required. Very happy with them. Just set the temp (39-64F) and walk away. Only improvement I'd suggest to the manufacturer would be to remember the temp setting between power off and on (it defaults to 55F).

Kal
 
First off, thank you very much for what you are doing here...we all appreciate it. At least, we should lol.
Thanks! I've gotten a lot from HBT and other forums and 'paying back' by documenting what I've done in case others want to follow or critique is the least I can do...

Regarding the setup with your buckets and the new Danby fridges, just wondering where you put a temp probe or if you even use one? I would initially be a bit concerned with temp of liquid rather than ambient. Thoughts?
I use temperature strips on the outside of the buckets (always have) they're surprisingly accurate and show the actual wort temp, which, as you mentioned may be a couple of degrees above the fridge set temp during the most active fermentation so I'll account for that by setting the fridge a couple of degrees lower at the start (I ramp up most of my beers anyway a few days into fermentation or towards the end).

Cheers!

Kal
 
Do you add warm to swirl and harvest?

I assume you meant add warm "water"? No, I simply swirled it up from what beer was left on yeast. It's a smaller amount as it's the mini bucket (had about 2.75g of wort) so it all fit in one large mason jar. I plan to test yeast impacts on same worts by splitting batches so we'll see how this collection works!
 
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