Brew Boss Systems

[DiegoBrewer]

So - this is what a stuck sparge looks like with a COFI filter. This is with the pump VERY restricted. :-(

This was my first time conditioning my grains. Did a great job keeping dust down - not so good for circulation. I was able to salvage the batch and them skim all the grain out of the wort prior to boil (took a while).

Turns out that after the initial grain overflow that much of the central COFI tube was clogged with hulls. Took forever to clean even using an air compressor!

Live and learn!

Just brewed a hi-gravity Old English with 24 LBS of grain. The sparge didn't get stuck, but it had similar results as your picture with the wort overflowing the top of the basket a full flow. I stirred the mash after 30-minutes, kept the pump at 1/4 restriction to keep the grains covered, then hit it with full flow every ten minutes and mashed for a full 90-minutes. I hit my efficiency but it was more work than I bargained. Not sure the infusion tube is up to the task when the basket is that full, so I need to find another solution.

 

[SeeMont]

Are you guys brewing a 10 / 11 gallon batch in the 15 gallon system? I have had four large brews with 22 and 23 lbs of grain and 60 minute mash. After the mash out and my COFI raised, i use 3 gallons of 160+ water and slowly pour through the container. My efficiency has been in the high 70%. With my 6 gallon RIS batchs with 20 lbs, using this method I am still getting about 75 percent.

 

[HLSheppard]

5 gallon batches here. I have had awesome results with brews that were more "standard" in terms of strength 1.050-ish. My problem is I like big beers so I'm running into more grief than is necessary trying to make the system work beyond it's "happy place."

I am only changing one or two things at a time while learning the system. A pour-over sparge is something I haven't tried yet. I've read varying reviews of how effective it is - but there's only one way to find out...

 

[DiegoBrewer]

5 Gallon batch here too. 70% is still a challenge, even with Session beers using Beer Smith as a guide. 90 minute mash seems to help the most, but I bought the system to reduce time, so anything you hear that will get it back to 60-minutes would be great.

 

[HLSheppard]

5 Gallon batch here too. 70% is still a challenge, even with Session beers using Beer Smith as a guide. 90 minute mash seems to help the most, but I bought the system to reduce time, so anything you hear that will get it back to 60-minutes would be great.

Totally agree. I use Beersmith as well and hit my number IF I use 60% efficiency on big beers. I did an 80 minute mash last time and did better. Don't ask me why I didn't do the full 90. LOL

 

[Borneogoat]

I have a 15gal with COFI system and have been getting around 65% Total Efficiency (Beer Smith calcs) with 5-6gal brews of around 1.060 OG. I will need to brew 2x 10gal batches of 1.048 APA for a wedding in a few months. Seems some people are having no problem stuffing 22lbs of grain in the COFI, so I'm OK there. What about max mash water in a 15gal BB with a fully stuffed COFI of 22lbs? Beer Smith tells me, with my normal parameters, that I need 15gal of water .... obviously I can't put a full COFI and 15gal water in a 15gal pot!

How much water can I fit with 22lbs? Do I just make a higher gravity wort and then dilute with water post-mash & pre-boil? Or am I missing something ...

 

[stlblues5010]

I heated up full volume of water. As I lowered the COFI in I pumped out the water to another pot. After mashing I pulled the COFI out using the handle and poured the remaining water from the other pot over the COFI.

 

[MerlinWerks]

This is what I do for 1.065+ brews, calculate volume for a 120 min boil, heat the full volume then reserve a gallon or so for a sparge. I usually get 70 - 75% BH on these, before I started sparging I would get 60 - 65%. My normal beers of < 1.060 I get 70% without sparging. I haven't used more than an 18lb grain bill, but I can see where this method should allow you to do 22 lb in a 15 gal kettle.

Regardless, you will need to spend more time to get bigger beers, whether it's mashing, boiling or both...

@DiegoBrewer

It sounds like you are getting low efficiency with lower gravity beers as well. How are you crushing your grain? What's your water like?

 

[Borneogoat]

I heated up full volume of water. As I lowered the COFI in I pumped out the water to another pot. After mashing I pulled the COFI out using the handle and poured the remaining water from the other pot over the COFI.

So you are basically sparging, right? Although that sounds like extra work, it might also help my lower than hoped for efficiency. Do you aim for a certain sparge water temp? I've never sparged before, so I'm a little unfamiliar with the process...

 

[stlblues5010]

So you are basically sparging, right? Although that sounds like extra work, it might also help my lower than hoped for efficiency. Do you aim for a certain sparge water temp? I've never sparged before, so I'm a little unfamiliar with the process...

Yes to sparging. Not quite the same as sparging through a cooler but your still rinsing the grains.
I put the water in an insulated keggle so not much temp loss, mostly just a grain rinse.

 

[Wright]

Yes to sparging. Not quite the same as sparging through a cooler but your still rinsing the grains.
I put the water in an insulated keggle so not much temp loss, mostly just a grain rinse.

Same here. I heat my full water amount to sparge temp and then pull a gallon or two off into an insulated igloo 5 gallon water jug and put the cap on. It keeps the water at exactly the same temp until an hour later when I need it. I then pour it over the bag I use and then ready for the boil.

 

[FreddyMar3]

I "sparge" as well. takes a few extra minutes to pour some hot water over the top of the grain and buys me 1-5% in efficiency. sometimes i don't even keep it hot. pull it off before dough in and then dump it when draining. I'm also in the 30-45 min mash, 30-45 min boil camp, unless i'm doing something out of the ordinary.

 

[DiegoBrewer]

@DiegoBrewer

It sounds like you are getting low efficiency with lower gravity beers as well. How are you crushing your grain? What's your water like?[/QUOTE]

I crush the grains at the local brew supply. Tried re-milling once, but scorched my heating element (grains too fine).

 

[h22lude]

@DiegoBrewer

It sounds like you are getting low efficiency with lower gravity beers as well. How are you crushing your grain? What's your water like?

I crush the grains at the local brew supply. Tried re-milling once, but scorched my heating element (grains too fine).[/QUOTE]

Milling twice does help but it isn't the fix for a large gap mill. If that gap is too large, milling it twice may still not be enough. You really need a proper gap.

I don't think you scorched your wort because of the crush. The element shouldn't be touching the grains. Scorched wort is due to long contact time with the wort when the element is on.

 

[Snicklefritz]

I crush the grains at the local brew supply. Tried re-milling once, but scorched my heating element (grains too fine).

I would agree that the crush probably wasn't directly the cause for the scorched wort. However, too fine a crush could clog up your bag/basket and cause a "stuck sparge". When this happens with the Brew Boss it results in the wort inside the basket to be at a higher level than wort outside the basket eventually starving the pump out or bringing it to a trickle. It also drops the wort below the temp probe which essentially causes the element to go full 100% all the time. In this situation very little wort is around the element and scorching happens VERY fast.

So while the crush probably didn't directly cause the scorching I would imagine it did play a role by limiting the recirculation. You can still crush very fine you just need to keep an eye out for the situation I described above and stir more often to prevent it. In the end its worth it for me to just add an additional lb or 2 of base malt to make up the difference, after all, this is an automated system that I bought so I didn't have to babysit it.

 

[h22lude]

Those with a non COFI system, have any of one used Loc-Line for the mash/sparge arm? I just bought about 10inch of straight line and the mash recirculating add on. The copper arm the kit came with is in the lid so I'm thinking of using that same hole. I bought a threaded piece that will go through the hole and I'll attach a male camlock disconnect to that. I'll then use the straight pieces as a whirlpool arm at the end of the boil. I'm just trying to figure out the best way to attach it all. For now I can use the lid hole for the mash recirculating but I would like a better solution. The whirlpool arm I can just attach to the side of the kettle using a clip. I use a basket right now so I can't really put a bulkhead on the side. I may go to a false bottom so I can install a bulkhead.

 

[mjc999]

Those with a non COFI system, have any of one used Loc-Line for the mash/sparge arm? I just bought about 10inch of straight line and the mash recirculating add on. The copper arm the kit came with is in the lid so I'm thinking of using that same hole. I bought a threaded piece that will go through the hole and I'll attach a male camlock disconnect to that. I'll then use the straight pieces as a whirlpool arm at the end of the boil. I'm just trying to figure out the best way to attach it all. For now I can use the lid hole for the mash recirculating but I would like a better solution. The whirlpool arm I can just attach to the side of the kettle using a clip. I use a basket right now so I can't really put a bulkhead on the side. I may go to a false bottom so I can install a bulkhead.

I do this. I actually use the flexible line with multiple outlets and attach it to the lid exactly as you suggest. Du to the multiple openings, it doesn't work as a whirlpool arm. Since you use the basket, like I do, you are kind of stuck with the lid mount. The alternative is to mount to the side of the kettle and notch the basket to pass by the mounting hardware or skip the basket and use a mash screen at the bottom of the kettle to keep the bag off the element. The last option, which i've been considering is to have a stainless "bag" made as described elsewhere with a flat side to allow it to pass by the hardware for a recirc arm removably attached to the side of the kettle. This has also been described elsewhere.

For whirlpool, I just added a port below the level of the basket near the bottom of the kettle. Haven't tried it yet.

I hope to brew this or next weekend.

 

[h22lude]

I do this. I actually use the flexible line with multiple outlets and attach it to the lid exactly as you suggest. Du to the multiple openings, it doesn't work as a whirlpool arm. Since you use the basket, like I do, you are kind of stuck with the lid mount. The alternative is to mount to the side of the kettle and notch the basket to pass by the mounting hardware or skip the basket and use a mash screen at the bottom of the kettle to keep the bag off the element. The last option, which i've been considering is to have a stainless "bag" made as described elsewhere with a flat side to allow it to pass by the hardware for a recirc arm removably attached to the side of the kettle. This has also been described elsewhere.

For whirlpool, I just added a port below the level of the basket near the bottom of the kettle. Haven't tried it yet.

I hope to brew this or next weekend.

For whirlpooling, I'll be using just the straight pieces. I'll have to configure it during the boil but with the tool it takes less than a minute to do.

I'm thinking about buying this (https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/biabbottom15.htm) and getting rid of the basket. I can then install a bulkhead up top and use that for the mash and whirlpool arms.

 

[bowtie]

For those using the COFI filter. How do you keep the rubber feet on? I loose all four feet in my wort every brew. Lucky me I find them while cleaning kettle and not stuck in the pump or chiller.

 

[stlblues5010]

For those using the COFI filter. How do you keep the rubber feet on? I loose all four feet in my wort every brew. Lucky me I find them while cleaning kettle and not stuck in the pump or chiller.

I took some thin stainless steel washers and put them on the tops of the feet. I had to wet and twist the feet to get them through the washers.

 

[HLSheppard]

For those using the COFI filter. How do you keep the rubber feet on? I loose all four feet in my wort every brew. Lucky me I find them while cleaning kettle and not stuck in the pump or chiller.

Strange - never had an issue with them coming off (?)

<knock on wood!>

 

[mjc999]

For whirlpooling, I'll be using just the straight pieces. I'll have to configure it during the boil but with the tool it takes less than a minute to do.



I'm thinking about buying this (https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/biabbottom15.htm) and getting rid of the basket. I can then install a bulkhead up top and use that for the mash and whirlpool arms.

Hmmm, interesting option and certainly cheaper than a stainless screen bag. i've bought a bunch of hardware from them and have been very happy with all of it.

 

[mcgimpkins]

I'm thinking about buying this (https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/biabbottom15.htm) and getting rid of the basket. I can then install a bulkhead up top and use that for the mash and whirlpool arms.

How would you fit that around the element in the middle of the kettle?

 

[jeffmeh]

How would you fit that around the element in the middle of the kettle?

If the center "leg" is in the way of the element, remove it.

 

[h22lude]

How would you fit that around the element in the middle of the kettle?

As jeffmeh said, I'd remove it. Or maybe it will fit around one of the bends (my element isn't straight).

 

[andrewmaixner]

I have one, and the center leg is just slightly offset, no problem. Even if it touched the element, it's 304 stainless, immersed in a liquid which will not pass 212F.

 

[Schumed]

For those using the COFI filter. How do you keep the rubber feet on? I loose all four feet in my wort every brew. Lucky me I find them while cleaning kettle and not stuck in the pump or chiller.

I just took them off...never understood the purpose of them

 

[kane5141]

Has anyone had trouble with the app? I updated through google play on tablet and now it doesn't work...see attached photo.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1472404694.940475.jpg

 

[peoples22]

Does anyone have the newer version swirl boss? Did my first batch yesterday on my 15 gal COFI system and was disappointed in the whirlpool using the swirl boss. Upon cleanup I discovered the "E" nozzle was pretty much completely clogged with hop debis.

Will this be typical on hop heavy batches where I may have to clean out during the session or just bad luck?

 

[flyingpole]

Are you using one of the Brew-Boss hops filter spiders?

 

[HLSheppard]

Does anyone have the newer version swirl boss? Did my first batch yesterday on my 15 gal COFI system and was disappointed in the whirlpool using the swirl boss. Upon cleanup I discovered the "E" nozzle was pretty much completely clogged with hop debis.

Will this be typical on hop heavy batches where I may have to clean out during the session or just bad luck?

I have a newer one and have been pretty disappointed with it. I've clogged it almost every time. I don't want to use another hop spider/basket but may have to...

 

[Schumed]

Does anyone have the newer version swirl boss? Did my first batch yesterday on my 15 gal COFI system and was disappointed in the whirlpool using the swirl boss. Upon cleanup I discovered the "E" nozzle was pretty much completely clogged with hop debis.

Will this be typical on hop heavy batches where I may have to clean out during the session or just bad luck?

I've learned you have to have the flow going pretty good to prevent the clogging

 

[u81doughboy]

I'm planning on brewing soon using a decoction process. Can I simply hit pause on the software when I pull the grains for the step to hold the temp in the brew-boss? Then un-pause after I add the grains back in. Anyone else do this before?

 

[flyingpole]

Simply add a step type 1 to your step definition file. It will wait for you to press start, effectively pausing. Make sure the temperature you want held is specified for the step.

I'm planning on brewing soon using a decoction process. Can I simply hit pause on the software when I pull the grains for the step to hold the temp in the brew-boss? Then un-pause after I add the grains back in. Anyone else do this before?

 

[u81doughboy]

Thanks. That's a great trick.

 

[peoples22]

Are you using one of the Brew-Boss hops filter spiders?

No but looks like I may need to add one to the setup to avoid any clogs in the future.

 

[peoples22]

I've learned you have to have the flow going pretty good to prevent the clogging

Thanks, I'll make sure I'm wide open next time along with using a hops spider.

 

[HLSheppard]

Thanks, I'll make sure I'm wide open next time along with using a hops spider.

My clogs have all happened while "wide open" with the pump. My thinking is - if I'm trying to whirlpool, I want as much flow as possible. My setup still clogged with hops.

I brewed a big Belgian Tripel with crushed coriander (1 oz.) and it totally killed the Swirl Boss. Plugged solid. I had to blow it out with compressed air and (while it worked) it looked like one of those Mythbuster's air cannons! LOL

Live and learn!

 

[andrewmaixner]

You could make or order a custom 1/2" stainless replacement that would be a wide-open stainless tube, and couldn't clog. I use something similar on my setup, but not attached through the kettle wall. Would probably be under 35$ to order the bent tubing and camlock parts from BrewHardware.com, and another 20 if you want him to do the silver soldering for you

 

[HLSheppard]

I also thought about taking a Dremel tool to the Swirl Boss to open up the "E" cutout to something less jagged / apt to get clogged. Stainless is a beeeyotch to cut, though...