Bottom Draining Keggle Question....

[Ki-ri-n]

For those that have a bottom draining keggle, what gasket are you using for the 2" tri-clover clamp? I have a silicone 2" gasket (with a rib on each side) but I'm assuming it's leaking where the notch for the spear normally is and the rib is causing the leak Right now I'm just trying to block it off and performing a leak test before I go any further.

 

[Ki-ri-n]

I found my leak More to follow latter.....hopefully......

 

[BrewKaiser]

I use 2" silicone sanitary gaskets, but I remove the rib off one side with a utility blade. This now flat side I use on the sanke side.

 

[cyberbackpacker]

Here are your two best/easiest options for using tri clover with the standard sankey keg neck:

https://www.brewershardware.com/F1GASSIL.html?category_id=317

or

https://www.brewershardware.com/Silicone-O-Ring-for-F1.html?category_id=253

 

[Ki-ri-n]

Thank for those, I had thought of doing/getting something like that. Is it typical for bottom draining kettles to leak or weap from there? I still have a slight leak but it may be from a solder joint. Still tracking that down.

 

[cyberbackpacker]

If you are using the stock neck, and an un modified tri clover gasket, yes you will leak.

Th fact there is no grooved recess in the surface of the neck mating surface is what prevents a good seal using a standard gasket.

Hence the need to purchase either of the above OR do as stated in one of the other posts and modify a standard gasket... Use a razor blade to slice off the rib on one side of a standard gasket.

 

[Ki-ri-n]

Awesome, thanks! Did not think of that going in. Good thing I got extra gaskets. I'll give that a shot first.

 

[BrewKaiser]

Here are your two best/easiest options for using tri clover with the standard sankey keg neck:

https://www.brewershardware.com/F1GASSIL.html?category_id=317

or

https://www.brewershardware.com/Silicone-O-Ring-for-F1.html?category_id=253

Stick with the flat gasket or modify a ribbed one as stated before. The O-rings are a real PITA to seat correctly and are easily squeezed off the sanke neck.

What are connecting to the sanke neck?

 

[Ki-ri-n]

Just a block off. Doing my own twist on a bottom drain MT. More to follow.

I did trim the gasket. Near as I am tell, no leaks

 

[Ki-ri-n]

Here's what I was up to:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=7930917#post7930917

 

[Ki-ri-n]

I did my first test run on it the other day. Worked fairly well. However, it still seams like I can compact the grain bed even with the pump throttled back to just barely open. I thought that the extra surface area of the false bottom would really help this as compared to the manifold in my old cooler. Do I need to open up the gap on my mill more (MM2 set to about .039"-.040")?

 

[BrewKaiser]

I did my first test run on it the other day. Worked fairly well. However, it still seams like I can compact the grain bed even with the pump throttled back to just barely open. I thought that the extra surface area of the false bottom would really help this as compared to the manifold in my old cooler. Do I need to open up the gap on my mill more (MM2 set to about .039"-.040")?

For efficiency-sake .38 to .40 is ideal.

If you have not already done so, I would try:

1) thinner mash: water-to-grain ratio of no less than 1.5qt/lb. I shoot for 1.75qt/lb
2) Rice hulls: 1/2 lb for 5 gal batch, 1 lb for 10 gal
3) If you dough-in before recirculating your mash, slowly open MLT valve BEFORE turning on pump. Let the liquid fill the supply tube to the pump, turn on pump, then slightly open valve at bottom of MLT. The suction from the pump can compact your grain bed.
4) Dough-in while recirculating.
5) Wort Grant: If the above do not work, you may have to incorporate a grant into your set up.

Looked at your thread of your set up. Nicely done!

 

[BrewKaiser]

I was looking at your build thread and something occurred to me.

When you cleaned out your MLT after your last brew were there grains in the bottom of the sanke neck where you blocked it off? Grain will always get through and down the neck initially. Your output tube is 1/2 so wouldn't take much to plug that. Since the distance from where you blocked it off to the output tube is very small, the grains that accumulate down there at the first part of your dough-in may be plugging up your tube.

I also have a bottom drain set up (link to my build below), my bottom drain manifolds use 3/4 nipple pipe (ie bigger diameter) and I have about 2 inch gap under where the nipple pipe is located.

When I finished my first brew on Monday and dumped the butterfly valve about 2-3 oz worth of grain flushed out.

You may need something like this, too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZD1AS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[Ki-ri-n]

I did have some small grain particles on top of the block off plate. I don't think that effected the output but I have only mashed in it once so far. Thanks for the link on the screen, I may have to try it. I had quite a bit of grain around the level 3 support stand that got around the edge of the FB. What may help more, is to take a silicone hose, slit it length wise and wrap the outer perimeter of the FB with it to get a better seal. With the dents in the keg, that area isn't protected as much.

 

[BrewKaiser]

I did have some small grain particles on top of the block off plate. I don't think that effected the output but I have only mashed in it once so far. Thanks for the link on the screen, I may have to try it. I had quite a bit of grain around the level 3 support stand that got around the edge of the FB. What may help more, is to take a silicone hose, slit it length wise and wrap the outer perimeter of the FB with it to get a better seal. With the dents in the keg, that area isn't protected as much.

Yes. I forgot to mention that, too. Seems to be a good gap around the FB in places.

 

[Ki-ri-n]

Looked at your thread of your set up. Nicely done!

Looked at your Floating System, made me feel inferior. That is nicely done :rockin:

 

[BrewKaiser]

You've got nothing to feel inferior to. I'm sure I over-engineered mine 10X. End of the day it's all about the final product anyway. Shiny doo-dads don't make the beer taste any better.