kaboom133
Well-Known Member
*shakes head* 57 pages of bottle-conditioned-beer discussion when we all know....
We should just keg
We should just keg
*shakes head* 57 pages of bottle-conditioned-beer discussion when we all know....
We should just keg
*shakes head* 57 pages of bottle-conditioned-beer discussion when we all know....
We should just keg
*shakes head* 57 pages of bottle-conditioned-beer discussion when we all know....
We should just keg
I got 57 problems but the keg ain't one.
For what it's worth, I'm going to go to Home Depot and pick up a 90* elbow for my bottling bucket.
It's co2. We all get a little bubble action from time to time. But it ALL THE YEARS of using this I've NOT had any liquid cardboard beers.
A lot of people get overly worked up about seeing bubbles. But noone ever thinks those bubbles could just be co2. Especially after you've run a little beer out of the setup.
zeg, What kind of problem did you have with the elbow.
Mine was a little too deep and hit the bottom of the bucket so I had to saw a little of the "down" end. Then I put the rubber washer on the outside of the bucket and screw the spigot into the elbow until the washer starts to distort. it works very well and leave only about 1/8 inch in the bottom of the bucket.
Sorry if this has been covered somewhere in the 58 pages of comments in the thread, if so please someone just tell me so and I'll happily wade through to find it...
But I attempted a dip tube like this, using a screw-on elbow threaded onto the inside of my spigot and it worked, but had a serious problem so I've abandoned it and gone to tipping the bucket when I near the end of the batch. The problem is that there is a little pocket/cavity inside the body of the spigot, between the intake part that goes into the bottling bucket and the actual spigot output. This cavity is a bit taller than the intake opening and it seems that it doesn't fill entirely to the top, probably because a little air gets trapped.
When I begin drawing beer into a bottle, I can see the level of beer in this cavity dip for a moment, then rise back up as flow starts from the bucket. This isn't a problem initially, but as the bucket empties, the flow is a bit slower and the dip is more pronounced. Eventually, the dip falls below the hole into the spigot output and bubbles enter the stream down the bottling tube. For a while, if I very slowly begin the flow into the bottle, I can avoid this problem, but eventually I can't even fill the bottle without continuous burping.
I'm not 100% certain that this is a problem, because it *could* be that the cavity is mostly filled with CO2 produced from the priming sugar, but I'm worried that it's air and I'm aerating the heck out of the beer as I bottle it. I did have one batch of beer that went bad a couple months after bottling, and it just occurred to me that I probably bottled it this way, so it could well have been oxidized.
Anyone had this problem? My spigot assembly looks like the same one as in the photos in the OP. It'd be nice not to have to do the tipping game, but for now that seems to be the only way I can avoid the fizzies in the bottling tube.
....My batch ended up making about 44 or 45 beers, so I had several extra caps. However, I dumped all my caps into a star-san solution earlier. Is it okay to use these caps next time? I dried them all off.
Also, my kit came with a bottling bucket but only one lid (for the primary fermenter). I didn't even realize this until I racked to the bottling bucket and didn't have anything to cover it. Didn't want to use the lid from the fermenter either, so I just left it open and bottled quickly. Is it recommended to cover the bottling bucket? I guess I could have grabbed a large pot lid and spritzed with some sanitizer.
Also, while I was capping one beer, the capper crunched right through the neck of the bottle sending glass everywhere and into the bottle. Had to sacrifice one beer. Has this happened to anyone else?
Also, while I was capping one beer, the capper crunched right through the neck of the bottle sending glass everywhere and into the bottle. ...
Also, my kit came with a bottling bucket but only one lid (for the primary fermenter). I didn't even realize this until I racked to the bottling bucket and didn't have anything to cover it. Didn't want to use the lid from the fermenter either, so I just left it open and bottled quickly. Is it recommended to cover the bottling bucket? I guess I could have grabbed a large pot lid and spritzed with some sanitizer.
But after 15 days there should be something?
Nonsense. If you're using the 3/4 cup of corn sugar for carbonation, your beer will carbonate. (And no you dont need 3 weeks). At most two weeks but typically 10 days is sufficient. The two questions I have are, how many days do you give yourself between when your initial fermentation is finished (over 2:30-3 minutes per bubble from your airlock) and when you bottle? Do you move to a secondary and how long is it there?
Based on your explanation and FG's, it sounds like perhaps your yeast is pooping out even before it can start carbonating your bottles.
This happens when your beer sits too long in primary or secondary.
I would say bottle do mature over time for certain types if beers (stouts, barley wines, manic if course) come to mind.
Yes, you have to be quick with recapping after re-priming. The same is true with injecting them with new hydrated yeast.
Sorry but I disagree with your airlock comment. I have found that yeast that is still fermenting and kicking up a bubble every 2:30-3:00 minutes in primary is perfect for moving to secondary. That can last from a few days to weeks if anything else is being steeped in it (chips, etc). I do agree that yeast can go on for a long time but it can also poop out if the initial fermentation was very heavy and worked hard.
Have fun brewing!!
Nonsense. If you're using the 3/4 cup of corn sugar for carbonation, your beer will carbonate. (And no you dont need 3 weeks). At most two weeks but typically 10 days is sufficient. The two questions I have are, how many days do you give yourself between when your initial fermentation is finished (over 2:30-3 minutes per bubble from your airlock) and when you bottle? Do you move to a secondary and how long is it there?
Based on your explanation and FG's, it sounds like perhaps your yeast is pooping out even before it can start carbonating your bottles.
This happens when your beer sits too long in primary or secondary.
It could also be your capping system. Do you get a firm seal once they're clamped down? I use the oxygen green caps which work well.
If for some reason it is the yeast. Do the following;
Get some dry Nottingham, rehydrate it, use a plastic syringe, open all your bottle, and hit them all with a little bit if yeast. Nottingham will not give you any off flavors and the priming sugar should still be there if nothing carbonated. I recently did this with a Oktoberfest beer were the yeast pooped out but it's normal for lagers so it was part of the process and it worked beautifully.
Good luck
La Fronde
Yeah, the dude only has +5,000 posts, I bet most of them has been straight out of his ass. edit: that's sarcasm by the way, did they teach that at UC Davis? I only got my BS at University of Montana, so I'm not sure they were so particular.
Enter your email address to join: