Blichmann QuickCarb (New from HomebrewCon 2016)

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Has anyone tried using this to recirculate dry hops in a keg with a filter on the diptube? Or used it to clean their tap lines?
 
You are asking about the pump I think. Not the carb stone...
Sure - if you take the carb stone out of the setup and just use the pump it is strong enough to push beer through a hop rocket - but do you really want to?
How do you make sure that you can get all the particulates out of the pump head after you do? I have not had the time or the inclination to do that yet...
Cleaning tap lines should be fine too - again - if you take the carb stone out of the equation... stay tuned for my post on this subject soon as it is with the welders now =;>
 
Just asked BE what the max PSI rating for this pump is.

The answer for inquiring minds is 50 PSI max.

edit: yes - I do a lot of seltzer water - Why pay for a SodaStream when you have this thing!
 
maierhof said:
Just asked BE what the max PSI rating for this pump is.

The answer for inquiring minds is 50 PSI max.

edit: yes - I do a lot of seltzer water - Why pay for a SodaStream when you have this thing!
Click to expand...

There are more powerful 12v and 24v versions of this same pump on ebay for $35 if your looking for something that pumps harder.
 
augiedoggy said:
There are more powerful 12v and 24v versions of this same pump on ebay for $35 if your looking for something that pumps harder.
Click to expand...

Got it - was noting the actual pressure that this pump can take in terms of PSI ie: from a regulator.

Now you got my mind moving on a new project - damn you! j/k =;>
 
maierhof said:
Got it - was noting the actual pressure that this pump can take in terms of PSI ie: from a regulator.

Now you got my mind moving on a new project - damn you! j/k =;>
Click to expand...
Understood, wasnt sure if thats what you meant...

I just bought one myself along with all the hardware to make my own quickcarb for $70... Then I said what the hell I might as well add a filter to see what all the hype is about... sometimes I get impatient waiting for the beer to clear on its own and if this helps speed it along well Ill give it a shot.
 
Ive been having issues with the pump leaking where the pump meets the motor. Ive reached out to blichmann but havent heard a response from their social media or contact form yet, anyone have any suggestions other than complete disassemble and some food grade silicone?

*** EDIT - blichmann support got back to me and are sending me a replacement unit. once again they stand behind their product without question! for anyone wondering, i have about 6 kegs through the quick carb.

Heres is a video you can see the leaking.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8y2X0BdKbQ[/ame]
 
Gustatorian said:
Does anyone know if you can use the quick carb with a nitro set-up?
Click to expand...

I would not use CO2/nitro mix tank with this. I would use standard CO2 tank with the QuickCarb. Once the beer is carbonated you will be fine to hook it up to your nitro system. The nitro just provides the extra pressure needed to push the beer through the small holes in the tap.
 
Punk_Rock said:
I would not use CO2/nitro mix tank with this. I would use standard CO2 tank with the QuickCarb. Once the beer is carbonated you will be fine to hook it up to your nitro system. The nitro just provides the extra pressure needed to push the beer through the small holes in the tap.
Click to expand...
Have you ever tried to push fully co2 carved beer through a nitro tap under nitro pressure? You get a glass of foam.
 
augiedoggy said:
Have you ever tried to push fully co2 carved beer through a nitro tap under nitro pressure? You get a glass of foam.
Click to expand...

If carbed to an "average ale" level, you'd be correct, but in fairness, he didn't specify the level of carbonation.
fwiw, I carb my stouts on straight CO2 to ~1.5 volumes before putting them on beer gas...

Cheers!
 
day_trippr said:
If carbed to an "average ale" level, you'd be correct, but in fairness, he didn't specify the level of carbonation.
fwiw, I carb my stouts on straight CO2 to ~1.5 volumes before putting them on beer gas...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Very true, I usually do the same... once I started carbing a porter on co2 and decided midway to switch to nitro and had to relieve the pressure a few times and wait days before the pour was decent on my nitro tap with the restrictor plate installed.
 
day_trippr said:
If carbed to an "average ale" level, you'd be correct, but in fairness, he didn't specify the level of carbonation.
fwiw, I carb my stouts on straight CO2 to ~1.5 volumes before putting them on beer gas...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

This was my process too. 1.5 volumes with the quick carb, switched over to beer gas (25/75) and 52 PSI (based on the link previously given). Beer pours beautifully, long-lasting head. Carb level has maintained, as well.

Screen Shot 2016-11-13 at 6.08.01 PM.png
 
highland_brewer said:
Brian Brinley.. good to hear. I mentioned your video in my review here:

https://youtu.be/1tBEJQq5F0A
Click to expand...

Thanks, for clarity it was actually leaking at the pump head and not the pump inlet tube. Hence the reason they sent out a replacement. But like I said super speedy service and no questions asked other than how many batches i've ran through it.
 
Hey all - I just thought I would share my setup and process with you all to help you combat beer in your regulator line.
When I first bought this thing - one of my problems with the setup is that if you are not careful some of the beer/water would flow back into the regulator tube.
I saw this again as I watched your video Highland Brewer.

No need for that to happen.
IMHO - That is just a way for infections to grow in your line and then you will transfer those to your beer whenever you add CO2 to it.
In order to combat this - I use a plastic quick disconnect from morebeer - link

This is what it looks like: see pic

So here is what I do.
I set the cleaned pump up and connect the ball locks, as there should be no pressure in the keg yet (purge first) - put pressure on the regulator side of the disconnect by flowing the CO2 from the regulator (they can handle it) - then I attach it to the female side and let it flow until the unit is clear and CO2 is pumping into the keg - then I purge the keg of oxygen (if necessary as sometimes I forget to do that =;>) and then I turn on the pump. Simple but effective way to purge the system of oxygen and keep the liquid from getting into the regulator line.

Hope this helps!

IMG_20161121_101829_775.jpg
 
So i stumbled on the quickcarb and was looking to do the DIY version, and i started thinking...i already have a carb lid with a stone, if i recirculate the beer by the gas IN, would this do the same effect? i have a chugger ss pump
 
Make sure your check valves are specifically for liquid. They cost more than the gas ones. No personal experience with them, tho.
 
ElChangoGuero,

I don't think it will work because you're still trying to carbonate the full volume of beer whereas with the blichmann system the beer comes in contact with the CO2 in a very small space and is more saturated in that small space. Your method you're still trying to carbonate the entire keg at the same time. All you would be doing is just creating turbulence in The Keg much like shaking it.
 
highland_brewer said:
ElChangoGuero,

I don't think it will work because you're still trying to carbonate the full volume of beer whereas with the blichmann system the beer comes in contact with the CO2 in a very small space and is more saturated in that small space. Your method you're still trying to carbonate the entire keg at the same time. All you would be doing is just creating turbulence in The Keg much like shaking it.
Click to expand...

thanks for the reply, i did think of that and ended up going with this, i noticed a review on the aeration system in amazon and i found the pump he used just need a ss elbow, ill let you guys know how it works!!! :mug:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BWMR5UM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-24V-...188346?hash=item21168be7ba:g:kykAAOSwknJX0ncw

asdfasdf.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Should be interesting, but I recommend removing the air stone as it's serving no real purpose in that setup and in fact will probably bring the process to a hard stop...

Cheers!
 
day_trippr said:
Should be interesting, but I recommend removing the air stone as it's serving no real purpose in that setup and in fact will probably bring the process to a hard stop...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

What do you mean remove the stone? Thats the whole purpose of the system, pass the beer through the stone, im planning on doing a 1 hr run on the "diy quickcarb" and then put my corny lid with the aeration stone for the rest of the 23 hrs, hoping to get a perfectly carbonated beer in 1 day
 
Because the way you've hooked that up you are trying to drive the recirculating beer through the stone.

And good luck with that...

Cheers!
 
will it make a difference is the tubing is bigger? im thinking of getting the 1/4 barb to 1/2 male npt to put swivel nuts on the hoses but im not sure if it would benefit the system to have 1/2 id hoses or i cna just go with a 1/4 id since the pump is also 10mm wide, so i dont think it would do a difference, what do you guys think?
 
I assembled and ran mine tonight for 1 hour at 12psi and the beer still needs more.. I'd say it's 80% carbed. I think I'm going to use the flow meter I bought for my oxygen setup to be able to tell when the co2 flow from the tank has stopped and it carbed to the proper level.
 
day_trippr said:
By whom?
Nearly every home dispensing system is based on 3/16" ID lines...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Yeah I discovered this yesterday. For some reason I seemed to remember beer line being used in two different sizes... When I had the longer run from my taps to my cooler the home brewing store sold be stuff that was a lager diameter I believe.
I ended up using a much larger ID line I had for my setup yesterday..(now I have 1/4" barbs I wont be using). I still have to read the directions because all I did was set the pressure to 12.5 and let the rum recirculate for an hour. I would think it would carb up much faster if I started at a higher pressure? of course the stone in my setup is a different micron size than blichmann uses and that could be slowing it down..
 
augiedoggy said:
Yeah I discovered this yesterday. For some reason I seemed to remember beer line being used in two different sizes... When I had the longer run from my taps to my cooler the home brewing store sold be stuff that was a lager diameter I believe.
I ended up using a much larger ID line I had for my setup yesterday..(now I have 1/4" barbs I wont be using). I still have to read the directions because all I did was set the pressure to 12.5 and let the rum recirculate for an hour. I would think it would carb up much faster if I started at a higher pressure? of course the stone in my setup is a different micron size than blichmann uses and that could be slowing it down..
Click to expand...

you can do trial and error, keep taking the pressure up on each keg you carb to see how much difference it makes :eek: ! interesting
 
augiedoggy said:
I assembled and ran mine tonight for 1 hour at 12psi and the beer still needs more.. I'd say it's 80% carbed. I think I'm going to use the flow meter I bought for my oxygen setup to be able to tell when the co2 flow from the tank has stopped and it carbed to the proper level.
Click to expand...

what flow meter are you using and how would you use it with the quick carb?
 
Gustatorian said:
what flow meter are you using and how would you use it with the quick carb?
Click to expand...

Why do you need a flow meter? Just watch the output line for the bubbles to stop generating. It's self equalizing, just run it until the bubbles stop and you're good to go. Ive found that it is somewhat misleading if you immediately drink after its been carbed because the bubbles are soo small but letting it sit for a day helps balance all those nuances out.
 
brianbrinley said:
Why do you need a flow meter? Just watch the output line for the bubbles to stop generating. It's self equalizing, just run it until the bubbles stop and you're good to go. Ive found that it is somewhat misleading if you immediately drink after its been carbed because the bubbles are soo small but letting it sit for a day helps balance all those nuances out.
Click to expand...

It pumps the beer so fast you dont see any bubbles in the line at all thats the whole point...im using the 12v version of the pump blichmann uses so maybe its pumping harder I dont know. I was shutting the pump off after a while and waiting th see it the gas was then still expelling through the hose or if the pressure equalized but that is a very time consuming hands on approach... with a flow meter like this which I have.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LZQ-0-1-5LP...811561?hash=item21125a0a69:g:0cQAAOSwOVpXdcf5 I can see in real time the amount of co2 still being absorbed no? I did notice the bubbles were very small in the beer afterwards... it had a lace and bubbles forming on the glass but seemed undercarbed.

I will try again with a Christmas ale I have thats ready to be kegged but Ill let it go longer and see if the flow of bubbles stops when turned off.
 

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