Big Belgian Dark Strong Ale

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Calypso

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I'm getting ready to brew a beer to commemorate the birth of my daughter. I want it to be something that will age well, so I can drink one each year on her birthday, and hopefully share it with her when she's older. I'm a little concerned it will finish too sweet, but welcome all input:

"Nora Leigh", Partial Mash
OG: 1.107
FG: 1.024
IBU: 35
Color: 30 SRM
ABV: 11.1%

6# Belgian Pils
2# Munich
0.75# Special B
6# Extra Light DME
1 oz. German Magnum, FWH
1# Candi, D-180
1# Candi, D-90
1# Raw Sugar
Wyeast 3522, 2 step starter (1.5L, 1.5L)

Mash @ 152F, 90 minute boil. Add candi and raw sugar after initial fermentation is complete.

Thoughts? It seems like, with all that sugar and the low-ish mash temp it should finish lower than 1.024, especially with what I've been reading about 3522.
 
I would bet that you will surely end up below 1.024 with that amount of sugar in there for sure. Paired with a low mash temp you should have something closer to 1.015, possibly lower. Feeding the fermenter sugar is a common practice, and it seems most people will let the active fermentation slow a bit and add sugar when the krausen starts to drop. You may want to add the two pounds of candi syrup first, let that ferment out, and then make a simple syrup out of the raw sugar and add that when the krausen begins to drop again after the candi syrup is fermented out.

Seems like a solid recipe otherwise. Congratulations on your daughter! :mug:
 
Thanks for the reassurance and congratulations! I will take your advice on adding the simple sugars in multiple steps. Something that just occurred to me though, I've never done a beer this big, do I need to use yeast nutrients? If so, what kind?
 
It cannot really hurt to use yeast nutrients, but in a fermentation with that much malt in it there should be enough micronutrients present to provide the yeast with everything they need. My only concern is that the yeast could possibly get stressed when just fermenting the simple sugars, there are no nutrients present there. If you were to add some nutrient, I prefer the Wyeast Nutrient Blend.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/wyeast-brewer-s-choice-nutrient-blend-1-5-oz
 
I would ditch the Special B. My recent dark strong used a mixed base (pilsner, pale, Munich) with a ton of candi sugar and a little Caramunich. When I redo it I might be ditching the Caramunich for some aromatic.

I once heard that the BDSA is a "sugar showcase". I don't think something like Special B is necessary.
 
I'd mash lower.

I'd toss in some goldings at the end ...... just because!

You will end up closer to 1.010. Using the alternate alcohol calculator at Brewers Friend (which is supposed to be more accurate for high gravity beers), that will put you at 14%. You run the risk of stalling that yeast which is rated for 12%.
 
I'd mash lower.

I'd toss in some goldings at the end ...... just because!

You will end up closer to 1.010. Using the alternate alcohol calculator at Brewers Friend (which is supposed to be more accurate for high gravity beers), that will put you at 14%. You run the risk of stalling that yeast which is rated for 12%.

Hmm... So it wouldn't actually attenuate to 14%. If it stalled at 12%, what would the FG be? And would it taste lousy in that case?
 
MY experience is that most yeast, when properly cared for, can exceed their rated ABV limit by a few %. Proper care is aeration, pitching rate and temperature.

This sounds fun. Good luck!
 
Hmm... So it wouldn't actually attenuate to 14%. If it stalled at 12%, what would the FG be? And would it taste lousy in that case?

If it stalled with that much of a gravity drop left, it would be sickenly sweet. Plus, theres a chance that youd rouse the yeast at bottling and that amount of leftover fementation would be enough to make bottle bombs. Definitely be sure your beer is done fermenting before bottling. Add a highly attenuating yeast if you need to

and I would also take out the special B. Id use it without the candi syrups, btu not with it. The candi syrup will give some fo the same plum and caramelized raisin flafors
 
Hmm... So it wouldn't actually attenuate to 14%. If it stalled at 12%, what would the FG be? And would it taste lousy in that case?

1.107 -> 1.025 would be 12%ABV as per the alternate high abv formula.
1.107 -> 1.010 would be 14%, etc, etc

For the style drier is better. But you could consider a second pitch of 099 towards the end of fermentation to keep it cranking. Plenty of breweries brew 15%+ beers. Totally do able
 
Hmm. I don't know, should I go ahead roughly as planned (possibly without the Special B, haven't made up my mind yet), or should I bring down the OG a little? I could drop some of the simple sugars. I just don't want to end up with an under attenuated, hot mess. I have a big starter and will be aerating with a power drill and paint mixer, so hopefully the yeast will be happy and healthy.

If I did add some WLP099 after primary fermentation has finished, do I need to do another starter, or just pitch the vial?
 
Hmm. I don't know, should I go ahead roughly as planned (possibly without the Special B, haven't made up my mind yet), or should I bring down the OG a little? I could drop some of the simple sugars. I just don't want to end up with an under attenuated, hot mess. I have a big starter and will be aerating with a power drill and paint mixer, so hopefully the yeast will be happy and healthy.

If I did add some WLP099 after primary fermentation has finished, do I need to do another starter, or just pitch the vial?

Since 099 is going into a high alcohol environment and is prone to shock I would make a 1.5-2l starter and pitch it at high krausen. The yeast will have great vitality and will have gone through reproduction to increase cell count.
 
I think if aging it is your concern and reason or such high OG, I would drop the OG a bit (into the 1.090 range) and see if you can get a healthy starter to attenuate it well. You'll still have plenty of alcohol in it and this may help you finish the beer a little drier.

As far as Special B, I'm not a big fan but thus just me. I would think that with such a large beer that if you could get that flavor from a syrup Instead you'll end up with a better attenuated, drier beer.
 
It's been 2 weeks, and there is still a thick layer of krausen, with the blowoff bubbling every few seconds. Gravity is only down to 1.027. This is taking a long time! I'm used to getting ready to bottle by about now.
 
it should be nearly at FG (if nto at it by now) and just conditioning. What temp is it at?
 
i would warm it into the 80s. I usually let my beglians free rise to help them finish off fermentation. Nearly all (if not all) belgian yeasts can be used much warmer than other ale yeasts
 
I wrapped the fermenter in a sleeping bag, hopefully that will help it warm up and finish off. At what point should I pitch the super attenuative yeast I bought as a backup?
 
I wrapped the fermenter in a sleeping bag, hopefully that will help it warm up and finish off. At what point should I pitch the super attenuative yeast I bought as a backup?

Why would you pitch more yeast? You said it was going fine.
 
Why would you pitch more yeast? You said it was going fine.

If this yeast struggles to get the beer to my target FG, I have an alcohol tolerant super yeast that can finish the job. I just don't know how long to wait before considering that option.
 
i mean you dont always need to reach a target FG. The yeast finished where it finishes. For example, I dont think youd want to add that yeast to an english porter or something or it would dry it out a lot. I would use it for times when there is something wrong with the fermentation and the yeast arent healthy enough

1.027 is reasonable considering the huge OG of the beer. What did it actually start at?
 
1.096, approximately. But it's still too sweet at 1.027. I'm hoping it gets down to at least 1.020.
 
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