BIAB small batch - water volume

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VirginiaHops1

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I searched the site and found a bit of info on this but I'm still a little unsure. I'm starting to do small batches(2.5 gal) to test recipes and try to get my quality up before doing bigger batches again. I'm going to do some full boil extract, but because of the smaller batch I can also do grain now, and experiment with that. For you guys who do small batch BIAB in a 5 gallon kettle, how do you calculate water needed? I'd like to keep it simple, and just use one vessel so no sparging. I've looked at calculators, some tell me it won't fit in my kettle if I do full volume, some give varying numbers that will fit. I know people do it though, so I know I can make it work. I know volume depends on boil-off, grain amount, grain absorbtion, and probably a bunch of other things some of which I probably won't know until I do a batch or two.

Probably the calculator the seemed the most straight-forward is the one below.
https://pricelessbrewing.github.io/BiabCalc/#Advanced
It pretty much said I needed about 4 gallons of water for the recipe I was going to do(6.5 lbs of grain), and after adding grains I'd still be under 5 gallons but close, so it should fit in my kettle. Then pre-boil I'd be around 3.61 gallons, which would get me to around where I needed to be post boil. Sound about right for you guys doing small batch BIAB in one vessel? I was planning on just doing it this way and then adjusting in the future if my pre-boil/post-boil amounts are off.
 
The Priceless calculator is great.

Since you are so close to the full capacity of your kettle, you may want to take steps to control foam so you don't have a boil over.

I do 5gal batches in a 15gal kettle, just for peace of mind. Last weekend the foam of an oatmeal stout came surprisingly close to the rim, it was probably past the 10gal mark. I was very glad to have that extra space in the kettle.
 
Go with the Pricelessbiab calculator....with it, a few brews, and some accurate measurements you will be dialed in.
 
I do similar batches and your numbers sound about right. It will be cutting it close to get a good stir, you may want to hold back 1-2 qts of water, add the grains, then top off after stirring. Or you could always do a small sparge.
 
Thanks guys, appreciate the responses. I think I understand the process pretty well now. I don't mind using another small pot or saucepan if it helps, still pretty simple process. So I'll measure out my 4 gallons but hold back some in the 2nd pot, and either add after stirring or if it's too tight just add it at the end of the mash via sparging?

My oven can go down to 170, so I was going to use that to try to help hold the mash temp.
 
Yep, you got it. The oven works well. I usually preheat to 170, turn it off while I'm stirring the mash, then put it in the oven. For lower mash temps 148-150 I turn it off a little earlier while the mash water is heating.
 
Thanks! Can't wait to give it a shot. My first couple extract batches didn't turn out that great, although I think a lot of that is my process that needs buttoning up and not all the extracts fault. I'm working on that but also excited to see how an all-grain BIAB batch turns out.
 
Well I did this last night and pitched the yeast this morning after it cooled to my ferm temp. Went really well. My pre-boil gravity(1.030) initially came out short of what brewersfriend.com predicted based on the recipe even using a really conservative efficiency %. I thought about adding some DME but just went with it to see how it finished since this was my first one. Then post boil my OG was actually higher than brewersfriend.com predicted(1.060). Which is fine, that's right around what I was going for. I measured the pre-boil gravity before I poured back in all the extra drippings, so that probably would've brought it up some. Maybe my boil-off is higher than the rate brewersfriend uses as well.

In any case, I'm excited to see how it finishes up and tastes. It was pretty easy, not sure I'll do many more extract brews.
 
That is a helluva jump in gravity between pre and post boil, in fact it is double!!!

One would have to boil half of their wort away for this to happen...

This seems highly unlikely, and to that end I would suggest you take a close look at your gravity readings???

Was your pre boil gravity done using hot wort?

Was the wort mixed and homogeneous when taking the pre boil gravity?

There is likely a fly in the ointment somewhere???

Jmo
 
I didn't even think about it but yeah, I measured with hot wort after my mash. I think my hydrometer is calibrated at like 68. So I guess that reading wasn't accurate and was really much higher.
 
I didn't even think about it but yeah, I measured with hot wort after my mash. I think my hydrometer is calibrated at like 68. So I guess that reading wasn't accurate and was really much higher.

That's why I went with a $20 refractometer for preboil -- 1-2 drops after stirring show me whether I'm in my expected pre boil range or not. I don't overthink the preboil expected SG either, since I do 5G batches I figure 6G preboil volume so my PreBoilSG should = 5/6 OG roughly. Diffs in final volume from humidity or boil strength make it roughly right. But I can highly recommend the refractometer for a quick pre boil check without cooling a cup for hydro meas.
 
Love you guys. Thanks for the recommendations! As always, if anyone ever has any suggestions, comments, etc. Feel free to drop one in my inbox, email, github repo, etc.

Two suggestions for ya (from personal experience): 1) $14 Refractometer https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brix-Refractometer-Beer-Fruit-Juice-Wine-Sugar-Homebrew-0-32/173003800345 You can measure pre boil and post boil with just a few drops. The wort cools quickly, and you'll have an accurate reading within 1 minute and 2) Ditch the extract. I did dme exclusively for 1 year before switching to BIAB. I thought I was making good enough beer from dme to not have to switch to all grain, but dude, not even in the same ballpark. If I would have known how much better the beer would be, I would have only done enough extract batches to get a hang of the typical brew day. I'm glad I did extract for the experience it gave me, but I should have switched a long time ago.

Looks to me like you're having fun, which is the most important thing, so keep at it!
 
Two suggestions for ya (from personal experience): 1) $14 Refractometer https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brix-Refractometer-Beer-Fruit-Juice-Wine-Sugar-Homebrew-0-32/173003800345 You can measure pre boil and post boil with just a few drops. The wort cools quickly, and you'll have an accurate reading within 1 minute and 2) Ditch the extract. I did dme exclusively for 1 year before switching to BIAB. I thought I was making good enough beer from dme to not have to switch to all grain, but dude, not even in the same ballpark. If I would have known how much better the beer would be, I would have only done enough extract batches to get a hang of the typical brew day. I'm glad I did extract for the experience it gave me, but I should have switched a long time ago.

Looks to me like you're having fun, which is the most important thing, so keep at it!

Thanks I'll check out the refractometer. I'm really excited about the BIAB grain batch I have fermenting right now. Hoping for a jump in quality. I think I may be done with extract, because it wasn't really that much harder.
 
You sound like your doing pretty much exactly what I've been doing.. I made jacket for my kettle out of a water heater blanket and bungee cords, once it hits mash temp i put the jacket on it and then put it in my oven at 170° usually do not loose any temp nor does it warm up my mash for that hour.

my last batch was 6lbs of grain with 4.5 gallons of water and i did not sparge. i did a 90minute boil and ended up with 3 gallons easy in the carboy. half gallon+ still in the kettle. The only times I have trouble hitting 3 gallons is when I'm doing IPAs with 8lbs of grain and 6oz+ of hops.
 
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