Beersmith BIAB mash profile no mash out

[brewprint]

I'm trying and trying to get this software to add up for me. There is not a mash profile that doesn't have a mash out pre loaded. I also do not know what the difference is between the different mash types such as temperature mash.

Does anyone have their software set up for a 5.5 gallon batch? I know most folks use a 15 gallon pot so if you could give me some of your numbers I would appreciate it. I can do the math to compensate for my 12.5 gallon pot.

I basically end up with an extra gallon of water in limbo that I need. On the equipment profile where it says; loss to fermentation and trub it was defaulted to 1.1. I removed that totally and I'm almost spot on.

I always end up with 5.5 gallons in my kettle and put it all into my fermenter. Then I just leave .5 gallon in there when I throw the beer in the keg. Works out perfect this way.

Any help would be appreciated as I'd really like to start using this software.

 

[Gavin C]

Just make your own mash profile to however you want. You don't need to use any from the list.

Call it 1MyMash and it's always top of the list. That's what I do. Just tweak it each time for different temperatures.

 

[brewprint]

Just make your own mash profile to however you want. You don't need to use any from the list.

Call it 1MyMash and it's always top of the list. That's what I do. Just tweak it each time for different temperatures.

My trouble is that I must be oblivious on how to set one up. I want it to be no mash out and no sparge. It has sparge temperatures. Why? If there's no sparge why would there be a place for the temperature? I'm lost.

 

[Gavin C]

Use the "add mash profile" tool or edit an already existing one and save it with a name you like, "1Brewprints badass no-sparge mash". It will be top of the list if you stick a 1 in the front of the name.

Set the sparge volume to zero if there is no sparge being done. The sparge temperature is irrelevant to the data.

The profile can be set to a simple or as complicated as you like.

I think you can delete certain fields. I just haven't bothered. Decoction temperature is an obvious one to remove if you are not doing a decoction mash. The temperature of the decoction is set at 212. Beersmith knows I'm not doing one so it doesn't matter. At least not to me

 

[Oginme]

There are several video tutorials on the BeerSmith site and also, Brulosophor's web site which give detailed instructions on how to create your own profiles for equipment and mashing.

 

[brewprint]

I've watched the videos. I have somewhat of an idea of what to do but it seems that no one does it the same way that I do. I'll eventually figure it out if I don't give up.

I didn't realize the sparge temp was irrelevant Gavin C. Thanks

 

[Gavin C]

It's certainly irrelevant if you are not doing one as the volume of sparge water is zero.

I was participating in a thread on mashing out where some very good data was mention by Kai showing that even if sparging by whatever brewing process you do, the temperature of the sparge has no bearing on the extraction of sugars.

Either way it would seem that sparge temperature is not important.

I should probably look at those videos myself too. I just played around with the software making up nonsense mashes, equipents, recipes to see how the changing data affects other things. Got reasonably proficient with it but I know it does alot more than I use it for.

I've got my mash profile, equipment profile and in the advanced options menu you can inpout your grain absorption, trub loss etc. The volume calculator is very accurate once this is all done. Definitely a bit more setup than say @pricelessbrewing 's calculator (which is fantastic BTW), but does provide the accuracy I'm looking for in my 1 stop shop for planning, Beersmith.

Edit: Don't give up, I know you have had some issues with the software from another thread. It just takes a little bit of figuring out. I'm no computer wizz by any means, (just figured out how to embed links the other week thanks to @passedpawn 's article about HBT interface)

 

[brewprint]

The reason I'm working on it is to have a one stop shop where I can have all of my recipes. It just baffles me that it's so difficult to put the information from priceless right in there. I'll figure it out eventually.

 

[Oginme]

Left you a step by step instructional on the BeerSmith forum. Hope it helps. And take Gavin's advice about numbering the profile so that it comes to the top of the list.

 

[pricelessbrewing]

Agreed, I reached out to brad smith about maybe reorganizing where all the variables are but I don't have a lot of experience in the programming languages he's using. Definitely the main detraction for beersmith imo.

I plan on implementing beerxml support and profiles so you won't have to enter your equipment stuff every time. Expect an update in about a month or so.

 

[brewprint]

In the section for volume when building a recipe; does the measured pre-boil, batch size and bottling volume get plugged in after a batch is done and is it basically irrelevant?

 

[plan_ahea]

I've watched the videos. I have somewhat of an idea of what to do but it seems that no one does it the same way that I do. I'll eventually figure it out if I don't give up.

Here's the link to Brulosopher's video. It's what I used to set up my beersmith profiles and it works great.

 

[Oginme]

In the section for volume when building a recipe; does the measured pre-boil, batch size and bottling volume get plugged in after a batch is done and is it basically irrelevant?

You plug in your actual values in the fields marked as 'measured'. This helps keep track of actual results versus predicted values.

Another feature that you should note is the 'brew log.' You can set up a recipe and click on the icon for 'copy to brew log' and a copy of your recipe will be created in a new 'brew log' folder. You can then use that for making adjustments and capturing your brew data without impacting your original recipe.

 

[Oginme]

For those following the thread, but are not on the BeerSmith forum, here was my response there:

I will try to step you through this...

1. Open up your mash profiles folder: 'profiles' >> 'Mash Profiles'

2. Click icon for adding a new mash profile: 'Add Mash'

3. Set the grain temperature for a typical value you hold your grain at before adding to the strike water

4. Towards the bottom of the pop-up screen under the heading of 'Brew in a Bag (BIAB) and Full Boil Mash', click on the box next to 'BIAB Mash with Full Boil'

5. Now, just below the step box, click on 'Add mash step'

6. Make sure the type of step is set to 'infusion'

7. Set the 'step temperature' for the mash temperature you wish to target

8. Change the 'step time' to the length of your mash

9. Enter a reasonable time in the 'Rise time' box. I have 10 minutes for rise time to account for the time I spend mixing the grains into the water and ensuring there are no grain balls

10. Click on 'OK' to save the step.

11. Give the profile a unique name so you can find it. Try Gavin's recommendation of starting with a number to move it to the top of the list.

Now you have a profile that you can use to brew with. The numbers will change based upon the size of your recipe.
Modify message

 

[brewprint]

You're very helpful. Thanks!

 

[Gavin C]

9. Enter a reasonable time in the 'Rise time' box. I have 10 minutes for rise time to account for the time I spend mixing the grains into the water and ensuring there are no grain balls

I don't use a rise time for the first step as the temperature goes from strike down to the rest temp. I dough in fast now (2 minutes I guess, never measured it)after wondering if too slow a dough in was exposing the grains to too hot a temperature for too long. I lose about 4-5F from strike to rest temps for my 9-12 lb grain bills in a full volume no sparge mash (BIAB)

I wonder if I can put in a "fall" time. From strike to sacc rest temps. Will have a play when I get home

Good point on the brew log usage. Only just discovered it last week. Particularly useful if brewing something you have done before

Edit: I suppose you mean a rise time from grain temperature to sacc rest. That makes sense

 

[Oginme]

I don't use a rise time for the first step as the temperature goes from strike down to the rest temp. I dough in fast now (2 minutes I guess, never measured it)after wondering if too slow a dough in was exposing the grains to too hot a temperature for too long. I lose about 4-5F from strike to rest temps for my 9-12 lb grain bills in a full volume no sparge mash (BIAB)

I wonder if I can put in a "fall" time. From strike to sacc rest temps. Will have a play when I get home

Good point on the brew log usage. Only just discovered it last week. Particularly useful if brewing something you have done before

Edit: I suppose you mean a rise time from grain temperature to sacc rest. That makes sense

Pretty much is is a timer for consistency of mixing of the grains into the kettle. I generally pour the grains in all at once, then stir the crap out of them to eliminate any dough balls. This way I can slip the pot into my pre-warmed oven and allow it to sit for the rest of the mash.

I've learned that the way to ensure consistent outcomes is to maintain consistent practices throughout the process. Clicking the timer and then mixing until the beeper goes off helps to keep me consistent, given my ADD brain...

 

[Gavin C]

Pretty much is is a timer for consistency of mixing of the grains into the kettle. I generally pour the grains in all at once, then stir the crap out of them to eliminate any dough balls. This way I can slip the pot into my pre-warmed oven and allow it to sit for the rest of the mash.

I've learned that the way to ensure consistent outcomes is to maintain consistent practices throughout the process. Clicking the timer and then mixing until the beeper goes off helps to keep me consistent, given my ADD brain...

I like it. I will time my dough in from now on. I'm all for consistency

 

[pricelessbrewing]

I pretty much ignore the dough in time, like gavin I dough in pretty quickly with a whisk then mix with a long spoon to stir and establish a consistent temp throughout the pot. I find it stabilizes in about 2-3 minutes.