Basic Recipe for experimenting

[StillsNMash]

OK, I am looking for a basic foundation of a recipe I can use that will be as neutral as can be. I don't know if its possible in the brewing world, but in the distilling world, its like a basic sugar wash. Something that will produce a very neutral spirit, not quite vodka like, but something that can be worked with by adjusting other elements of the process.

Does anything like that exist in the brewing industry?

-Stills

 

[bracconiere]

100% base malt lager? lightly hoped...or maybe a 99% base malt ale, with a touch of something like crystal 40.....


edit: i've brewed with my homemalt, which i think is like munich 20L, 100%...and just an ounce and a half of high AA% hops for a 10 gallon batch.....


edit #2: base malt is called 'base', because it's the base of every recipe......that is your base you build recipes off....

 

[bleme]

The SMaSH (Single Malt, Single Hop) is a foundation of experimental brewing. It is a great way to taste what a particular malt or hop brings to the table. Maris Otter is a good malt to start with.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

OK, I am looking for a basic foundation of a recipe I can use that will be as neutral as can be. I don't know if its possible in the brewing world, but in the distilling world, its like a basic sugar wash. Something that will produce a very neutral spirit, not quite vodka like, but something that can be worked with by adjusting other elements of the process.

Does anything like that exist in the brewing industry?

On foundation recipes: Over the decades, there have been a number of different pale ale "base recipes" for understanding hop flavors by brewing a batch: 80-90% base malt, 10-20% character malt (Munich or Vienna, or crystal), a style appropriate yeast; timing of hop additions do matter, but are often not specified. (A +1 to @Dgallo for American IPA - Base Pale Ale Recipe for Single hop Beers ).

On adjusting elements (ingredients?) in the process: what beer styles are you interested in? You mentioned a recipe that is "as neutral as can be". That would appear to limit SMaSH recipes (as they are tend to be hop forward, not neutral), as well as most other BJCP 2015 styles.

On "does this exist": There are a number of ways to learn about the flavors / aromas that malts / hops / yeast can provide without brewing. Are you interest in these?

 

[Dgallo]

On foundation recipes: Over the decades, there have been a number of different pale ale "base recipes" for understanding hop flavors by brewing a batch: 80-90% base malt, 10-20% character malt (Munich or Vienna, or crystal), a style appropriate yeast; timing of hop additions do matter, but are often not specified. (A +1 to @Dgallo for American IPA - Base Pale Ale Recipe for Single hop Beers ).

On adjusting elements (ingredients?) in the process: what beer styles are you interested in? You mentioned a recipe that is "as neutral as can be". That would appear to limit SMaSH recipes (as they are tend to be hop forward, not neutral), as well as most other BJCP 2015 styles.

On "does this exist": There are a number of ways to learn about the flavors / aromas that malts / hops / yeast can provide without brewing. Are you interest in these?

Appreciate the acknowledgement!

 

[bleme]

You mentioned a recipe that is "as neutral as can be". That would appear to limit SMaSH recipes (as they are tend to be hop forward, not neutral),

SMaSH's tend to be hop forward because there are a lot more hops to test than there are base malts. If you are wanting to test a hop, make it hop-forward. If you want to taste the malt, just use 25 IBU's of Magnum and make it malt-forward. Once you know what a 2-Row/Magnum SMaSH tastes like, it is easy to add any specialty malt you want and learn it's contribution as well.

I prefer to do this type of experimentation in small batches as 5 gallons of 2-Row/Magnum would last me WAY too long.

 

[TheMadKing]

Maris Otter malt and cascade hops

Good pale ale, that's very repeatable and doesn't get much simpler

 

[StillsNMash]

Thanks folks for the replies. I really didn't know where to start with what I was looking for so I just referenced what I know. I will look into the SMaSH recipes and the pale ales. At this point I am only setup for really small batches, using recycled water jugs as carboys [I like repurposing equipment if it qualifies to meet my needs, sometimes thinking outside the box] That said, I have the space for 4 gallon batches in order to leave room for fermentation.

My take away is to start with a single malt, single hop recipe, but not sure about a "style appropriate yeast". I've been looking at all the various yeast strains, and that is one reason for this question - Whats the difference in the yeasts? If all other ingredients are the same, variations should be attributed to what has changed in each run - namely the yeast used. At least that is my ignorant theoretical process. Once I learn that, then I can try different malts, hops, etc. But my intent here is to find the "plain vanilla" basic ingredients with which to begin.

On adjusting elements (ingredients?) in the process: what beer styles are you interested in? You mentioned a recipe that is "as neutral as can be". That would appear to limit SMaSH recipes (as they are tend to be hop forward, not neutral), as well as most other BJCP 2015 styles.

My fave beer to drink socially is Miller Genuine Draft. I found a clone recipe to use, but I am also trying to learn the art of brewing so that is a goal recipe when I know more about what the ingredients do. Cream Ales have piqued my interest as I have read over recipes for the future.

Furthermore, I like light beer such as rollling rock, [pale ale?] and the fruity ales like Redds Apple Ale, and the ciders like Mikes Hard Lemonade. I have natural access to mint, apple, pear and wild blackberry fruits on my property which I would like to eventually incorporate into recipes, but I want to learn the ingredients and experience what they do as a learning and mental library experience.

Thanks for your time!
Stills.

 

[StillsNMash]

On foundation recipes: Over the decades, there have been a number of different pale ale "base recipes" for understanding hop flavors by brewing a batch: 80-90% base malt, 10-20% character malt (Munich or Vienna, or crystal), a style appropriate yeast; timing of hop additions do matter, but are often not specified. (A +1 to @Dgallo for American IPA - Base Pale Ale Recipe for Single hop Beers ).

Regarding Hops, with this recipe pattern, where do the hops come into play and at what percentage? Is there a link to the discussion of hops timing?

I reviewed the American IPA by @Dgallo . Is there a play by play detailed rundown article on brewing recipes that explains what is what and how thigs are done? For example, with this recipe, What is "whirlpool"? what is "cold crash"? How did you get your water profile? Mash vs. Sparge?

I've been searching for instructive articles, but I just can't seem to find a walk through that would answer enough questions so I am not driving the pro's nuts as a greenhorn.

Thanks!

 

[bleme]

Anything for more than 30 minutes is a bittering hop, but there are different kinds of bitter and some hops have a harsher bitterness than others. I like Magnum because it is a cheaper hop, adds a lot of bitterness, so I can use fewer hops, and it has a very smooth bitterness.

You are going to get more flavor and aroma (but some bitterness) from anything 15 minutes or less. The less time hops are boiled, flavor contribution will decrease and aroma will increase.

Dry hops are hops that are added after fermentation has begun. Some of the old texts say that these are purely for aroma, but anyone who has tested the same beer with and without dryhops will tell you that there is still a significant flavor contribution.

One of my favorite techniques is whirlpooling. Whirlpooling (or hop stands) is the addition of hops after flameout, but before fermentation. You will still get significant bitterness above 185F and hardly any below 160F. I feel like starting a whirlpool at 175F-180F and letting it freefall for the next 20-30 minutes (depending on how much bitterness I want) gives the hops a really nice range to fully express themselves. This zone gives me a lot of control because things happen a lot slower. I can't chill very quickly, so it is a lot easier for me to get from 170F to below 160F than it is to drop all the way from boil.

 

[bleme]

Concerning yeasts, there is huge variability between yeasts, and even using a single variety of yeast. Even a yeast known for fermenting cleanly (with little of it's own flavor contribution) like US-05 is going to be different if you ferment at 60F, 65F, 70F, 75F, or higher.

Some yeasts (like S-04) have a hard time fermenting complex sugars like maltose so will make a sweeter beer.

Some yeasts are used because they produce interesting esters or phenols (aroma and flavor componets).

Some yeasts (like Belle Saison) produce elevated amounts of glycerol. Glycerol can make a beer feel like it has body, without sweetness.

Lately, I have been experimenting with kveik yeasts. Kveiks are a farmhouse yeast from the Norway region that can ferment as high as 95F, in as few as 3 days, without off-flavors. Some are clean and crisp like a lager yeast. Some are fruity. Some react wildly different if you under-pitch. If experimentation is your thing, homebrewing is really the perfect hobby.

 

[StillsNMash]

@bleme thanks so much. This is great info. My basement stays below 72 degrees year round, drops to 54 in the winter no matter how cold it is outside and 72 no matter how hot it gets outside. Right now its wavering between 66 and 68 degrees. Is there a good article or source of information on yeasts that will expand on the information you've shared?

 

[Dgallo]

@bleme thanks so much. This is great info. My basement stays below 72 degrees year round, drops to 54 in the winter no matter how cold it is outside and 72 no matter how hot it gets outside. Right now its wavering between 66 and 68 degrees. Is there a good article or source of information on yeasts that will expand on the information you've shared?

I highly suggest picking up some literature on brewing as a resource. Home Brew Beyond the Basics Is a great resource

 

[bleme]

I think the subject is just too big for an article but Yeast: The Practical Guide is a good book.
When I am researching a yeast, I mainly use Google though. I will probably be interested in a style - say and Dark Mild - and will Google recipes, then look at the yeast in each of those recipes and Google them. Most of my searches will lead me right back here as there are some great threads discussing how a specific yeast reacts to numerous variables.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Is there a good article or source of information on yeasts that will expand on the information you've shared?

Liquid or dry yeast?

I saw your additional questions, but don't have time to answer them right now. I should be able to get to them later this evening.

 

[StillsNMash]

Liquid or dry yeast?

I saw your additional questions, but don't have time to answer them right now. I should be able to get to them later this evening.

Thanks for the time. What little experience I've had has been with dry yeasts of the bread variety, nothing of the brew specific yeasts. I've learned to re hydrate my yeast prior to pitching. I've never worked with a liquid yeast.

Stills.

 

[StillsNMash]

This might have been posted somewhere else on this site, but it's escaped me. However, I wanted to share in case someone else wanted a 101 article. Hope it doesn't step on anyone's toes. Hopefully this is a bit of return on investment with me. Thanks all! -Stills.

https://www.northernbrewer.com/blogs/new-to-brewing-start-here/how-to-brew-beer-homebrewing-101

 

[bleme]

This might have been posted somewhere else on this site, but it's escaped me. However, I wanted to share in case someone else wanted a 101 article. Hope it doesn't step on anyone's toes. Hopefully this is a bit of return on investment with me. Thanks all! -Stills.

https://www.northernbrewer.com/blogs/new-to-brewing-start-here/how-to-brew-beer-homebrewing-101

That will make beer, but it sure over-simplifies a lot. For instance, saying "Ales should stay at 68 degrees to ferment properly" is so mis-leading. I have successfully ferments ales everywhere from 55F to 100F. It all depends on the yeast!

The first book I read on brewing was How to Brew by John Palmer. He turned his 1st edition of the book into a free website and it is a great resource, even though a lot of the information in it is outdated. Palmer has updated as we learned new stuff about brewing, but you have to pay for the 4th edition to get those updates.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

dry yeasts

With dry yeast, a number the dry yeast providers have good information at their respective web sites:

• "https://fermentis.com/en/fermentation-solutions/you-create-beer/"
• "https://fermentis.com/en/tips-n-tricks/for-you-brewers/"
• "https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en/united-states/products/brewing-yeast/"
• "https://mangrovejacks.com/collections/craft-series-yeasts"

It looks like you are willing to start with SMaSH recipes. @bleme has typed a lot on the approach, so I won't add anything. If you are interesting in techniques (other than SMaSH) for learning about ingredients, let me know.

 

[bleme]

Another way of experimenting is to split batches. For example, my first beer was a cream ale. I brewed it to recipe, bottled half, then added a bourbon vanilla extract to the other half and bottled it. That allowed me to compare side-by-side so I knew exactly how the beer changed.

My second batch, I did the same thing to an American Wheat, bottling half to recipe and letting the other half sit on blueberries for a week before bottling them.

If you look at the Brulosophy website, they do a lot of this kind of comparisons, but mainly test techniques instead of ingredients.