Basement build

[ja_in_NJ]

Hi Everyone,

I recently purchased a new home, and my supportive wife has foolishly allowed me to take a storage room and turn it into my hobby space. Curious for some pro tips from anyone here who has plumbing experience as i do intend to add a sink to the space but the waste pipe isnt under the concrete slab. I think I can tap in to the existing pipe near the window (Picture 1), but ideally i'd like to put the sink on the back wall (picture 1 where the keg is). Is that possible with the waste line on the adjacent wall? I'm not a pro plumber but i am handy.

I also plan on putting my Robobrew against the back wall with a range hood. Haven't decided if im going to leave the cinderblock as is or paint it or cover it with some reclaimed pallets.

 

[NewJersey]

Where in NJ are you?
What to do with the walls depends on how fancy you want your finished product to be. You buying lots of stainless tables, sinks, hoods? I'd consider tiling the whole wall the brewery is on. Wood isn't technically sanitary, right?
I think painting it with the appropriate white paint could be just fine too.
White subway tiles are pretty cheap tho....

 

[pondjt]

I have a slop sink with an ejector pump as the drain is lower than the waste pipe. It works great.

This was a pro job. I like to think myself handy but I’m definitely not a plumber.

 

[Tim H]

I re-plumbed half my house when I bought it and added two sinks (one in my bar, the other in the utility room where I brew). If I’m looking at this correctly, you are going to put the sink in the opposite corner from the window? Keep in mind you need a 1/4 inch drop per foot. 8 feet is 2 inches (possible length of that side wall?). The fact that you already have PVC makes this easy. You can cut into the bigger lines and add a reducer to accept smaller pipe. You just get 2 rubber couplings and slap them on both sides of the new piece you added and call it a day! Running copper water lines should be relatively easy if you have a line in that room already.

to make it easier and cleaner, I would bump out the walls so the pipes are hidden, that way you don’t have any gaps between tables and walls. I’m jealous you have such a big room to brew in!

my biggest piece of advice is over plan the crap out of this. You need to think 5 steps ahead of what you are trying to work on (if you build a wall there, what needs to run through it and where? What is going to go against that wall- do you need 240v electrical lines, what height should the outlets be so your stuff can plug in on top of the brew table, etc.

good luck!!

 

[ja_in_NJ]

Where in NJ are you?
What to do with the walls depends on how fancy you want your finished product to be. You buying lots of stainless tables, sinks, hoods? I'd consider tiling the whole wall the brewery is on. Wood isn't technically sanitary, right?
I think painting it with the appropriate white paint could be just fine too.
White subway tiles are pretty cheap tho....

I’m in Saddle Brook. I do want to do stainless tables and a slop sink. I don’t know how to tile and that seems like a really “permanent” option.

 

[ja_in_NJ]

I re-plumbed half my house when I bought it and added two sinks (one in my bar, the other in the utility room where I brew). If I’m looking at this correctly, you are going to put the sink in the opposite corner from the window? Keep in mind you need a 1/4 inch drop per foot. 8 feet is 2 inches (possible length of that side wall?). The fact that you already have PVC makes this easy. You can cut into the bigger lines and add a reducer to accept smaller pipe. You just get 2 rubber couplings and slap them on both sides of the new piece you added and call it a day! Running copper water lines should be relatively easy if you have a line in that room already.

to make it easier and cleaner, I would bump out the walls so the pipes are hidden, that way you don’t have any gaps between tables and walls. I’m jealous you have such a big room to brew in!

my biggest piece of advice is over plan the crap out of this. You need to think 5 steps ahead of what you are trying to work on (if you build a wall there, what needs to run through it and where? What is going to go against that wall- do you need 240v electrical lines, what height should the outlets be so your stuff can plug in on top of the brew table, etc.

good luck!!

Do you think it is impossible to add a sink on the adjacent wall and run PVC to meet the waste line where it exits the house? My concern on the window side is overhead clearance with the HVAC ducts right above. I won’t be going to 240 and the house is entirely plumbed with PEX. I don’t think I can run lines without special tools that I just don’t want to buy.

 

[Soulshine2]

Hi Everyone,

I recently purchased a new home, and my supportive wife has foolishly allowed me to take a storage room and turn it into my hobby space. Curious for some pro tips from anyone here who has plumbing experience as i do intend to add a sink to the space but the waste pipe isnt under the concrete slab. I think I can tap in to the existing pipe near the window (Picture 1), but ideally i'd like to put the sink on the back wall (picture 1 where the keg is). Is that possible with the waste line on the adjacent wall? I'm not a pro plumber but i am handy.

I also plan on putting my Robobrew against the back wall with a range hood. Haven't decided if im going to leave the cinderblock as is or paint it or cover it with some reclaimed pallets.

View attachment 664699 View attachment 664700 View attachment 664701

i voted for paint ,specifically basement paint, i forget the brand name but its thick and seals up cinderblock and prevents moisture from weeping through...but- you could also apply furring strips and then apply (construction adhesive)sheet insulation between them ,cover with something like greenboard or some of that industrial fiberglass board so it can be wiped down. many other options.

 

[NewJersey]

i voted for paint ,specifically basement paint, i forget the brand name but its thick and seals up cinderblock and prevents moisture from weeping through...but- you could also apply furring strips and then apply (construction adhesive)sheet insulation between them ,cover with something like greenboard or some of that industrial fiberglass board so it can be wiped down. many other options.

Dry loc

 

[Kharnynb]

yea, also voting for some form of sealing paint, there should be thick latex type ones that can be wiped clean.

also, please get some form of ventilation, also to prevent moisture build-up

 

[ja_in_NJ]

yea, also voting for some form of sealing paint, there should be thick latex type ones that can be wiped clean.

also, please get some form of ventilation, also to prevent moisture build-up

I am installing a Viking 460CFM range hood that I grabbed off of FB marketplace.

 

[Kharnynb]

I am installing a Viking 460CFM range hood that I grabbed off of FB marketplace.

active ventilation for brewing is a must of-course, but remember if it's a place you will use more than a normal storage cellar, it needs some form of decent passive ventilation too.

 

[ja_in_NJ]

active ventilation for brewing is a must of-course, but remember if it's a place you will use more than a normal storage cellar, it needs some form of decent passive ventilation too.

The space has a small window I can open for passive ventilation. I think that should be fine.

 

[Ki-ri-n]

Think again.
Try boiling a big pot of water now and see how the steam evacuates the area (at least for 20-30 minutes). Better to try it now before you're too far down the rabbit hole.....

 

[Kharnynb]

you need something that vents for at least 12-24 hours after you brew, otherwise you'll have mold in no time.

 

[sicktght311]

Yeah listen to everyone above. Even at only .75gallons boil off per hour for my setup, if i didnt have my exhaust fan on through the entire boil, you would feel it on my walls. You NEED active ventilation. Its not a want, its a need

 

[Miller4]

Do you think it is impossible to add a sink on the adjacent wall and run PVC to meet the waste line where it exits the house? My concern on the window side is overhead clearance with the HVAC ducts right above. I won’t be going to 240 and the house is entirely plumbed with PEX. I don’t think I can run lines without special tools that I just don’t want to buy.

you can use shark bite fittings to add onto your current pex setup. Depending on how many fittings you need or are going to use it may be more economical to buy a crimper tool and crimp rings, relatively inexpensive and amazingly easy to use. Shark bites can be $5-$15 a fitting depending on what is used, but the convenience factor is huge.

I’d vote paint or FRP paneling, easy to clean.

 

[Deadalus]

As mentioned, your drain on the sink will need to drop 1/4" per foot. Find a sink you like and see how much room you'll need. You'll have a trap to install, which will run into the main drain. You have to make sure you can reach your main correctly including the fitting entering the main line. You need a vent pipe too. I don't think the lines coming down qualify for a "wet vent", you are on a different floor. You could maybe put in a air vent. You live in Jersey though so you might need to check with an inspector and possibly might not be allowed to do the work yourself. Personally I'd recommend the pex crimper it'll probably pay for itself, shark bite fittings are expensive. Maybe a buddy has one.

I would consider a wall to hide the pipes and the electrical you might want. You need to leave access for your cleanouts though. If it's not tall enough for liveable space don't spend too much on improvements. Kind of sucks that the duct work blocks the window. It's an important egress.

 

[Redpappy]

The real question you need to ask is what do you want to look at?
I am also working building my brewery in my basement an$ have asked for help as well ( https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ng-term-build-and-would-love-opinions.672267/). I plan on leaving really unfinished for the most part. I did add a “temp” wall so that I can run pipe and my water lines down and have them attached to something. I havnt posted the pic yet, but I will once I get my cabinets and countertop in.
With looking at the pics, have you thought about power? I don’t see any outlets. So that would mean running wire, so why not run 240, for future improvements?
Have you thought about water? With a pex system, what tools are you not wanting to invest in? And if your not wanting the tools, do you plan on hiring a plumber to run water to your sink?( special tools would include a crimping tool, which runs around 60.00, and having a pipe cutter is nice ( can’t remember what one ran think like 20.00)

edit: have you thought about kegging/botteling area, fermentation area?With a blank canvas, I feel that looking at the whole picture is the way to go.