Ball valve upside down

Yakima 728
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I have some of mine that look like that. It wont harm anything...

only way to fix it is to unscrew it and try again until its rightside up and tight. Youll need some extra thread tape though. Id just leave it
 
The quick easy fix is try more teflon tape. I've used this technique, while not ideal it does work. The other option of a three piece valve is better. I'm planning on switching to them when I go tri clover.
 
Well, I don't want to leave it like this. The stream hits the handle when it's all the way open.
I've got Teflon tape on it. I don't believe a wad of extra tape is the answer.
Yes, I have a crescent wrench. I made it quite snug, but not "all my strength" tight. I don't believe that cinching it down further would bring it all the way around to the top.
There is only one opening in the threads, so trying it multiple times won't change the outcome.
 
Carrollyn said:
Well, I don't want to leave it like this. The stream hits the handle when it's all the way open.
I've got Teflon tape on it. I don't believe a wad of extra tape is the answer.
Yes, I have a crescent wrench. I made it quite snug, but not "all my strength" tight. I don't believe that cinching it down further would bring it all the way around to the top.
There is only one opening in the threads, so trying it multiple times won't change the outcome.
Click to expand...

More tape and it might not thread down all the way and stop a quarter turn before where it is now.
 
When the store opens, I'll call them and ask about it, but if there was an adjustment solution that I should know about, I'd rather do that. Likewise, if there is no solution, I don't want them to put me off. They sell a lot of equipment like this, and I'm sure they wouldn't put any out for sale that looked like this one.
 
Did you try putting the valve on the other way? As long as the handle still clears the kettle it doesn't really matter.

Or go to Harbor Freight and buy a pipe tap for a few bucks. Just cut the threads into the fitting a little deeper (the 1/2 turn you need)
 
The only adjustment is what you've already been told.

If you had two wraps of tape on it try again with 4 to 5. And it doesn't need to be tightened as much as you think it does. It's not under pressure other than the height of fluid above it.
 
Ok, I bow to the wisdom of the experienced. The Wad o' Tape solution seems to have worked. Now I only have a very slow drip where the nipple goes into the valve, since they had not put tape there, and I don't know how to take it out to re-set it without messing up the threads.
 
Carrollyn said:
Ok, I bow to the wisdom of the experienced. The Wad o' Tape solution seems to have worked. Now I only have a very slow drip where the nipple goes into the valve, since they had not put tape there, and I don't know how to take it out to re-set it without messing up the threads.
Click to expand...

Just manhandle it apart, tape and redo. Should be fine. Stainless definitely galls horribly but if it hasnt been heated etc it should come apart.

Life's problem-solvers:
plumbing tape on any fittings
keg lube on any... keg stuffs.
duct tape on everything else.
 
Carrollyn said:
Ok, I bow to the wisdom of the experienced. The Wad o' Tape solution seems to have worked. Now I only have a very slow drip where the nipple goes into the valve, since they had not put tape there, and I don't know how to take it out to re-set it without messing up the threads.
Click to expand...

I'll bet the first time some hot wort cools in those threads your drip will be over.
 
Peruvian802 said:
I'll bet the first time some hot wort cools in those threads your drip will be over.
Click to expand...

and make a convenient infection point with that logic.

It's best to remove the valve and redo the teflon tape, or better yet as others have suggested go with a 3 piece valve or tri-clover. Only other option is to recut the threads.
 
You got to be joking right. There is at least 1/2 inch or more threads on the nipple. Get a wrench and tighten it up. You don't need any more tape and you don't need any more threads cut, you don't need to send anything back or have anything re welded. You need a 12 inch cresent wrench or a 12 inch pipe wrench.
 
Don't leave the nipple screwed into the valve without tape. The tape is an essential part of the assembly, providing lubrication and preventing galling. It's not just a "fix" to be applied in case of leaks. Get it apart now and do it right while you can.

Don't blame the bulkhead vendor/installer for your valve orientation issue. He had no idea what you would install on the bulkhead but he knew that oriemtation of the bulkhead would mean nothing. It is up to you to do the valve installation correctly. That means either backing it out until the orientation is correct (if it is properly taped it won't start to leak), tightening it further until the orientation is correct (if it properly taped it will go on around) or, in the rare case that it just can't be done either way, remove the tape and try again with a different quantity of tape. That is how it is done.
 
He had my keggle he was welding on and included the ball valve with the nipple on it which I bought from him. So he knew what was all going together, but might have assumed I knew how to handle that.
There was no tape on the valve-nipple assembly. I think if I put a normal plus amount of tape on both ends (after I get the nipple out) and tighten it moderately, it might orient correctly and not leak.
 
Rookie mistake by the "fab guy". Should have put the valve on the threaded piece (tight) as it would be once welded to orient it, mark both pieces to be welded, then weld away.
 
There is no way to install NPT fittings correctly or incorrectly in terms of thread orientation. Every male threaded fitting will tighten differently based on how the threads were cut. Heck, 2 different valves would most likely end up in different positions for the same amount of thread tape and tightness. Add some thread tape, and tighten until it is the correct orientation.

If they had the valve on hand, they could have done a better job though. But if you bought a different valve I'm sure it would end up in a different position.
 
flars said:
Are they tapered threads. Tapered threads will only tighten so far. Solution would be more teflon tape to reposition the handle.
Click to expand...

All iron pipe threads are tapered. 35 yrs as a plumber you might should listen to what I said to begin with. You guy's are making a mountain of a mole hill.
 
As was said before, every fitting will screw on differently........ There is no correct or incorrect orientation. The solution is a no brainer....... borrow a hand pipe threader...... I'd loan you mine if I lived nearby....... Run just a tad more thread, a bit at a time until the valve lines up where you want it. Wads of teflon tape is a dumb solution when you are a full 3/4 turn off. The folks who welded it up for you, probably have a pipe threader.... If not you can probably find someone who does..... It will work for this valve, but the next "identical" valve might screw on just a bit more or less. Stop short of perfect, so there's room to tighten more if you need it, and reverse the valve so the handle points back.

H.W.
 
I got the nipple out of the valve and taped up both ends. It looks like it is oriented well enough now. With a little bit of water in it, it doesn't leak. If I have to tighten it further later on, it can go another quarter turn before it goes too far under. If that happens, I guess I'll take it out and put more tape on. I wouldn't have thought more tape would help the adjustment as well as it did.
I can't turn the handle around the other way because it is too long.
Thanks, everyone.
 
Owly055 said:
As was said before, every fitting will screw on differently........ There is no correct or incorrect orientation. The solution is a no brainer....... borrow a hand pipe threader...... I'd loan you mine if I lived nearby....... Run just a tad more thread, a bit at a time until the valve lines up where you want it. Wads of teflon tape is a dumb solution when you are a full 3/4 turn off. The folks who welded it up for you, probably have a pipe threader.... If not you can probably find someone who does..... It will work for this valve, but the next "identical" valve might screw on just a bit more or less. Stop short of perfect, so there's room to tighten more if you need it, and reverse the valve so the handle points back.

Bull hockey. Nothing wrong with anything. Just need a wrench and maybe some body to use it.
Click to expand...
 
oogaboogachiefwalkingdeer said:
All iron pipe threads are tapered. 35 yrs as a plumber you might should listen to what I said to begin with. You guy's are making a mountain of a mole hill.
Click to expand...

NPT is an American standard as is NPS but NPS is the straight thread version which is equivalent to NPT except the tapering. So no not all iron pipe threads are tapered.

Mountain or mole hill doesn't matter the OP asked is there a way to adjust it so we answered and obviously there are other standards in the world and questions must be asked.
 
This thread has been like a Scottish clan meeting... more differing opinions on how to solve a simple problem than there are participants in the conversation.
 
I bought some of this on Amazon for the very problem you have OP. It was more than I wanted to spend at around $19 but it works great and allows you to position the valves exactly where you need them much better than with plumbers tape.
SEL31899(1).jpg
 
This is why i bought all 3 piece valves, because i am super compulsive and cant stand my valve handles not being on the very top.

Out of like the 9 valves I have on my EHERMS about 6 of them ended up needing the front taken off and rotated so the handle was on top.

As others said, more teflon tape your only solution. That said, you can get a 3 piece ball valve on bargainfittings for like $12...
 
I am beyond confused.

If the fitting isn't tapered then I'm doubly confused.

If it is then it's absolutely a matter of getting a good amount of thread tape on there and then turning it until it's pretty tight then continuing until it is oriented how you want it.

Orienting valves is a matter of turning them until they are oriented the way you want them. If you absolutely positively cannot turn them any further and they aren't where you want them then remove the valve, remove the tape that is currently on there, apply new tape and try again.

The valve needs to be snug plus a little extra. You don't need to tighten it until you can't get it to go any further no matter how big a wrench you use and how much ass you put into it. So once it's snug decide if it'll go more than a full turn until it's tight or if it'll go less and make a decision. Either way it'll work absolutely wonderfully.

I seriously thought this was some sort of parody thread. No offense to the OP. oogaboogachiefwalkingdeer has been 100% on point every post in this thread.
 

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