Automated mashtun

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

srice

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
262
Reaction score
58
One of the more frustrating parts of my brew day has always been the time it takes to get my mash tun preheated and the water at the correct temp for mashing in. I'm a firm believer in having devices wait on me instead of the other way around. This project started as a way to fix that issue, but it quickly turned into a much better mash tun for me.

I have always mashed in a rectangular cooler with good success so I thought I would start there. The goal was to be able to set a temperature and timer before I went to bed and have the system kick on some time before I get up so that I could simply walk downstairs, mash in, have breakfast and get on with my brew day.

I looked at various options, but decided on a RIMS system with a custom controller. The hardware is pretty simple - a Chugger pump, a few valves and fittings, a BrewHardware RIMS tube, a 6000W water heater element running at 120V (1500W) and my original cooler.

The controller is built around an Auber SWA2451 PID controller. This PID controller includes a built in timer. Unfortunately, it does not offer exactly the mode I am looking for, but I was able to make it work.

To use the system, I fill it with my strike water and set the mode to ON - this enables a contactor which allows the pump switch to supply power to the pump. This allows me to get the pump primed and make sure all the valves are in the proper location. The mode is then set back to Timer and the PID is programmed for the strike temperature and the PID timer is set to count down the number of minutes until I want the system to start heating. Once the PID timer expires, the PID alarm relay closes and energizes the contactor allowing power to be delivered to the pump and the SSR. The system them begins to heat and settles in to the desired strike temp.

As an added benefit, once I mash in, I now have a fully functioning RIMS system controlling my mash.

mashtun.jpg


mashtun control.jpg
 
This is wonderful. May I ask what is cost to build?

Let's see
I already had the cooler, and the material I used to slap together the stand.

The controller includes:
PID Controller 57.50
Sensor 27
Enclosure 30
Push Button 6
3 Switches 18
Contactor 16.50
Power Switch - already in my parts box - ???
Panel Mount Outlets - 4
Power Cable and plug - 15
Labels 10
Total for controller - $184

Rims Tube - 158
Pump 146
Camlocks, valves, fittings and tubing - $120


Grand Total - about $600
 
Anyway I could get a pick of the inside? This set up would be perfect for me. Do you use a false bottom?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Anyway I could get a pick of the inside? This set up would be perfect for me. Do you use a false bottom?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Here you go. No, I don't use a false bottom. I use a copper manifold and a bag. I tried it without the bag and wasn't too happy because I really had to throttle back the flow in order to keep from compacting the grain around manifold. With the bag, that problem is pretty much gone. The bag also makes cleanup super easy. I just pull the bag, dump it in my compost pile, rinse everything out and recirc cleaning water.

Two changes that I have made since the original pic - I moved the recirc inlet to top of the cooler instead of the side so that I can drape the bag over the side of the cooler and I added another valve before the diverter valve in order to control the flow rate.

20140813_201201.jpg


20140813_201327.jpg


20140813_201349.jpg
 
Is your pid set to mash temp and you rely on the RIMS to bring the mash back up to temp after you mash in & the temp drops by several degrees? Or do you set it to strike water temp and reset the pid to maintain mash temp when you mash in?
 
I set my PID to strike temp and turn it off when I mash in. I then restart the system with the mash temp after all of the grain is stirred in.
 
Awesome. Thanks for the pics. I will be doing something like this in the future.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
You have the 52qt Coleman xtreme? I have that cooler and would be interested in doing this down the road. What are the dimensions of the bag you are using?
 
You have the 52qt Coleman xtreme? I have that cooler and would be interested in doing this down the road. What are the dimensions of the bag you are using?

I ordered it from http://www.biab-brewing.com/ and this was my order:
This is for a Coleman Xtreme 52 qt cooler Dimensions (inside/outside) are: Length - 22.5"/26.5" Width - 11"/14.5" Height - 13.5"/16"
 
How do you go about draining the excess liquid from your pump and lines?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
How do you go about draining the excess liquid from your pump and lines?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

When I drain the mash, the pump and output valve are at the lowest points of the system. A little wort, probably less than a pint stays in the system. I then run circulate clean water for a rinse, drain that, add more water and PBW, heat and recirculate this, drain and rinse again with clean water. All hoses and the RIMS element are then removed and left out to dry.
 
Nice system. Helps me in figuring out the system I'm building. Did you set up any kind of sparge arm or divertor from your lid inlet? Or just lay on a hose?

/jd
 
Can you raise to strike temp with the RIMS system?

Yes - that is why I originally put the system together. I add the strike water the night before, program what time I want it to start up and my strike temp, and when I get up in the morning, I mash in immediately.
 
Nice system. Helps me in figuring out the system I'm building. Did you set up any kind of sparge arm or divertor from your lid inlet? Or just lay on a hose?

/jd

Just laid a hose on top of the grain.
 
Actually I am thinking of the SS hanging right off the pump before the hose. It looks like there might be a T but I am not quite sure what else.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top