Attenuation

[zhubbell]

So Im exactly 2 weeks from when I pitched the yeast on my first AG brew - a nice IPA, started at 1.079, had alittle stall about 2 days in when I had a temperature problem and the beer hit about 80 degrees for maybe 20 hrs or so, so I know I'm probably running alittle slow.
I removed the dry hops today and took a reading, I'm at 1.036 - is this within the realm of reasonable? Just wondering how I'm doing, I expected it to be alittle lower than that by now.

Just wanna make sure I'm alright and no corrective action is recommended at this point.

Thanks!


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[morticaixavier]

Let's have some details. recipe, mash profile, measurement protocol etc.

it should be further along and a high temp shouldn't cause a stall that's more of a low temp problem.

 

[zhubbell]

I don't have everything in front on me, but here's what I have ATM:
12.1# 2 row
1.1# cara pils
1.1# C40
.5# Munich
Mashed for 1 hr @ 154, and then sparked with 2.5g @ 180*
90 min boil. Don't have my exact hop schedule, but used citra, Amarillo, simcoe, and cascade
Didn't do a starter for this one but have for the last 2 I've brewed since - I pitched 2 smack packs of.....hold on, I have to look it up.

Using a refractometer for my readings.
More info coming


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[hunter_le five]

If anything, I would expect 80*F to speed up fermentation, not slow it down.

What temp did you mash at?

 

[zhubbell]

Wyeast American ale II 1272


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[adamelb]

You should take a measurement with a hydrometer if you can now. As I understand alcohol and particles will throw even a well calibrated refractometer off.

 

[hunter_le five]

+1 on using a hydrometer once fermentation has started. The alcohol with give you an incorrect reading. There are formulas to adjust for this, but in my experience, they are not very accurate.

 

[morticaixavier]

I don't have everything in front on me, but here's what I have ATM:
12.1# 2 row
1.1# cara pils
1.1# C40
.5# Munich
Mashed for 1 hr @ 154, and then sparked with 2.5g @ 180*
90 min boil. Don't have my exact hop schedule, but used citra, Amarillo, simcoe, and cascade
Didn't do a starter for this one but have for the last 2 I've brewed since - I pitched 2 smack packs of.....hold on, I have to look it up.

Using a refractometer for my readings.
More info coming


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as others have already pointed out, this is your issue. your actual gravity is closer to 1.013.

Check out this site for the correction tool
http://seanterrill.com/2012/01/06/refractometer-calculator/

 

[zhubbell]

Oh, good to know! I'm thinking il probably hold off messing with it any further at this point and take a final hydrometer reading when it's finished. How long would you guys recommend leaving this batch before bottling, and how would you go about carbing this one? I have very little experience/knowledge with what to do from this point on, and it seems like there's alot more info on recipe/brewing/yeast handling etc out there, and stuff like carbing seems to be described alot in recipes written in shorthand I don't understand, if mentioned at all.


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[CA_Mouse]

Starting with such a high OG, I would let it go about 3 weeks before checking final gravity. You said that you've removed the dry hops, dry hops should be done after primary fermentation has mostly completed. I usually wait until mine are within .008 of my desired final gravity before I add dry hops. Then only have then there for 4 to 6 days, then keg or bottle.

Bottle conditioning - 4 oz of corn sugar for a 5 gallon batch is common. Heat 1 cup of water, add th sugar and bring to a boil for 10 minutes. Allow to cool for 30 minutes while you prep your bottles and beer, pour the sugar water into your bottling bucket and rack your beer on top of it. Give it a gentle stir (don't add air) and bottle. Store the bottles at a slightly higher temp then your fermentation and check in 10 to 12 days. If they are carbed to your liking, then chill them to stop further carbonation and enjoy!

 

[zhubbell]

Oh man, I added dry hops at 7 days, for 7 days, as per the recipe I adapted my own recipe from.
Well, I know better for next time. So are you saying wait another 3 weeks, (5 weeks total), and then bottle, it are you saying I should've waited the 3 weeks before dry hopping?


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[morticaixavier]

Oh man, I added dry hops at 7 days, for 7 days, as per the recipe I adapted my own recipe from.
Well, I know better for next time. So are you saying wait another 3 weeks, (5 weeks total), and then bottle, it are you saying I should've waited the 3 weeks before dry hopping?


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wait another three days take another reading. if it's unchanged you can safely bottle. if you want to wait another week that's good too.

you could add MORE dry hops if you want and decide to wait the extra week.

 

[zhubbell]

I used a ton of dry hops, including 2.5 oz of whole leaf Amarillo, plus it's a ~132 IBU IPA already, so I don't wanna overdo it, unless the general consensus is that the first rnd of dry hops was completely wasted, but I'm guessing it's more of a diminished effectiveness situation vs. an all or none type deal, so I'll probably just learn for next time on the dry hops.

I'm Ganna wait a week, cross my fingers and hope I end up breaking the 9% mark.

I've been collecting craft beer bottles from the bar I work at with the intention of sanitizing them, stripping the labels, and reusing them for my home brew. Good or bad idea? And any advice on the best method to go about this.


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[Calder]

Take a gravity reading TODAY with an hydrometer. Go buy a cheap plastic turkey baster, sanitize, and use that to get a sample. Measure the gravity, drink the sample, and store the baster for brewing use only. Measuring the gravity and drinking the sample will tell you everything you need toknow about the beer.

If the gravity is 1.015 or lower, you are done and should be able to bottle at any time. The longer you leave it in the fermenter, the less trub will get in the bottles, this will help with stability (but I suspect it will be drunk quickly), And make pouring easier.

Bottles: clean them now. Many labels will come off with a short soak in hot water. For stubborn labels or hard to clean bottles, soak in oxyclean or similar) for a few days.

 

[zhubbell]

Damn, just left for work! It'll have to wait until tonight...
Thanks for the advice! I will do this when I get home.


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[zhubbell]

Damn, just left for work! It'll have to wait until tonight...
Thanks for the advice! I will do this when I get home.


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[morticaixavier]

I used a ton of dry hops, including 2.5 oz of whole leaf Amarillo, plus it's a ~132 IBU IPA already, so I don't wanna overdo it, unless the general consensus is that the first rnd of dry hops was completely wasted, but I'm guessing it's more of a diminished effectiveness situation vs. an all or none type deal, so I'll probably just learn for next time on the dry hops.

I'm Ganna wait a week, cross my fingers and hope I end up breaking the 9% mark.

I've been collecting craft beer bottles from the bar I work at with the intention of sanitizing them, stripping the labels, and reusing them for my home brew. Good or bad idea? And any advice on the best method to go about this.


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I wasn't implyling that the dry hops already used are wasted. they will be somewhat subdued by yeast glomming on to and dragging down some oils but there will still be plenty. And the IBU's don't really come into dry hopping. it doesn't add any bitterness only aroma and some flavor.

 

[zhubbell]

Thanks - I figured that's what you meant, and I didn't state the IBUs as a replacement for dry hopping, just meaning that I added alot of hops all the way from 90-flame out In addition to the dry hops, so if I loose some of the dry hop effectiveness, I won't have a gaping hop hole in the flavor profile.

Just grabbed corn sugar and caps on break, so tonight after my hydrometer reading, I'll be ready if the IPA is!


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