I have eight cornies that I use in rotation, six five gallon ball, two ten gallon ball, one converted pin. The last time I used them, they all held pressure. On Monday I tore them all apart and cleaned them out. I threw the lids together in a bucket of pbw, rinsed, and sanitized along with the kegs. After I put them back together, I pressure tested them. Four struggled to hold pressure. I reversed two of the lids and got them to seal, but the other two were still leaking at closing time. Are all corny keg lids the same size, or are they mated or matched to individual units?
Are Corny Lids Matched?
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My Firestone corny lid won't fit properly on my Cornelius brand keg. The rigs fit either but the lids are less oval I would say. But, I have a very, very old Firestone.
Cpt_Kirks
Well-Known Member
In theory, any lid for a particular brand of keg should work.
However, these are old kegs, that have been used and abused. A lot of lids have been bent to the point where they only work on the keg they came on.
You might want to look into some extra thick, soft silicon lid o-rings. They cost more, but they WORK!
However, these are old kegs, that have been used and abused. A lot of lids have been bent to the point where they only work on the keg they came on.
You might want to look into some extra thick, soft silicon lid o-rings. They cost more, but they WORK!
carlisle_bob
Well-Known Member
Hi
The O-rings take a set after a while. They match up with the bumps and dings in the lid and tank and then get a bit hard. They still work fine on the original keg, but maybe not so much on another keg.
Bob
The O-rings take a set after a while. They match up with the bumps and dings in the lid and tank and then get a bit hard. They still work fine on the original keg, but maybe not so much on another keg.
Bob
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I'll agree with the above. They aren't matched per say, but over time, age, abuse, etc... they become matched.
Mark your lids & kegs with numbers and you won't have that problem again.
MC
Mark your lids & kegs with numbers and you won't have that problem again.
MC
I love the penny idea! May try that on my old keg to see but I've already ordered a new lid.
Great place for great ideas that I learn every day.
Great place for great ideas that I learn every day.
Throwing my support for the "bumps and dings become matched sets"
New lid gaskets, pennies, and generous applications of keg lube (food grade silicone) can all make even awkward lids fit more kegs. Pushing 30psi when you first button up the keg will also help to set the lid as deeply into it's grooves as you can, limiting chances for slippage later.
By and large, most oval lids fit more cornies, both pin and ball lock. Some have "race track" lids that actually have straight sides and rounded ends (very uncommon) and some new kegs made in china are using much oversized lids (still less common, but gaining in popularity as they're usually a bit cheaper than the more standardized italian made kegs)
New lid gaskets, pennies, and generous applications of keg lube (food grade silicone) can all make even awkward lids fit more kegs. Pushing 30psi when you first button up the keg will also help to set the lid as deeply into it's grooves as you can, limiting chances for slippage later.
By and large, most oval lids fit more cornies, both pin and ball lock. Some have "race track" lids that actually have straight sides and rounded ends (very uncommon) and some new kegs made in china are using much oversized lids (still less common, but gaining in popularity as they're usually a bit cheaper than the more standardized italian made kegs)
BetterSense
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Assuming a corny lid has an area of 10 square inches, then it is forced shut with 100 pounds of force at 10psi. I always assumed the flippy handle was pretty much irrelevant when the keg is at pressure.
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carlisle_bob
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Hi
If the lid does not seal reasonably well, you will use a *lot* of CO2 getting it up to 10 psi....
Indeed once you are at pressure you can flip the lid handle back and forth without much effort on many kegs.
Bob
So, I came about two free old firestone challenger 5 gal kegs. They were in rough shape but cleaned up very nice. I was able to find most parts for them including ball lock posts and gaskets. The main difference is that the relief valve is NOT on the lid like most kegs. This valve is on the keg itself and is threaded for 7/16. I cannot find ANYTHING to replace it. So, I decided to "make" a new gasket for it using rubber stoppers and it seems to have worked, my problems are: The liquid out side seems to be leaking. I think it's around the poppit which is brand new. These posts have plastic "spacers" or "washers" that are supposed to seal from the pressure applied when tightening them down. My other problem is that these old kegs have a plastic gas dip tube. I was able to find "replacement" ones from only one brew supply shop, but they don't seat all the way down which prevent you from screwing the gas post on. So, I eliminated it. Any problems with that? Any one have any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
A picture would be helpful...or at least, interesting.
I think that's a potential problem, but perhaps you could spray enough leak detector at the post to see if it's an actual problem. The designed fit of the post to the threaded keg riser tube includes the flange of the dip tube as well as the o-ring. I would think not having the dip tube in place would potentially lead to a leaky fit. Replacement plastic gas dip tubes are easily available (though if you have to order on-line the shipping will be more than the cost of a couple of tubes).
Doesn't explain the leaky beer side, though. Do you actually have the required plastic spacers installed on these kegs?
Cheers!
I think that's a potential problem, but perhaps you could spray enough leak detector at the post to see if it's an actual problem. The designed fit of the post to the threaded keg riser tube includes the flange of the dip tube as well as the o-ring. I would think not having the dip tube in place would potentially lead to a leaky fit. Replacement plastic gas dip tubes are easily available (though if you have to order on-line the shipping will be more than the cost of a couple of tubes).
Doesn't explain the leaky beer side, though. Do you actually have the required plastic spacers installed on these kegs?
Cheers!
I have one Firestone keg and it's old. The lid is definitely a different shape and they are hard to find but out there. I'm not a fan of these and if I have a choice, would rather a Cornelius brand. The washers and popits are different too.
I've learned to never mix and match parts. Most of these kegs are old and have their own quirks. Hell, I've found that I have to have the lid in the same orientation to seal properly. Most of my kegs have sharpie marks on them so I know which way to put the lid on. That way I can rebuild them the same and ensure they don't leak.
I do have leaks in the lid and am working to correct it. No luck so far. I keep hoping lots of pressure will force it sealed but not so far.
nofootbreak
Well-Known Member
Williamsbrewing.com had plastic dip tubes a few months ago when I was replacing some. I bet they still do. Theyre different than the ones that came stock, and I cant use an oring on them, but I havent had a single leak issue without oring. Ive also ran these kegs without the plastic dip tube for one or two kegs before I got the replacements without a problem.
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