Anyone used Danby fridge DAR044A2SLDD from Costco ?

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IwanaBrich

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I just purchased a Danby 4.4 Cu ft mini fridg model DAR044A2SLDD from Costco for $149 and I have a question. Danby has made a few changes to fridge to the shelving. In the Danby 4.4 models shown on this web site and others, Danby used used metal shelves attached to brackets that lock into metal tracks that run up and down either side of the back of the frig. In my unit they replaced the metal shelves with glass. They thickened the walls and put slots in them that the glass fit into. This made the fridge a bit narrower, so I can't fit two both Corny Kegs side by side inside. I can get both in but one has to go all the way back of the fridge and the other has to come forward almost to front edge, but it seems to stick out on the top in the frig (the keg seems to lean outward). So much so that I'm not sure that I'd get the door closed even after I cut away the plastic.

Has anyone faced this issue? I was thinking of using aheat gun to melt (soften) the plastic sides so the kegs have more room. I'm afraid to grind away the interior of the fridge, its bad enough that I have to butcher the door.
 
Nope I have not cut away anything......I was way too chicken!

That link that you attached was perfect, it had exactly the info that I was looking for. I wasn't sure if the sides could be shaved off or not. It's also nice to know that I'll have to watch for wires if I decide to do that.

Initially, I only plan upon using one keg in the fridge at a time with a party Tap, just so I don't have to cut or do any modifications to it. I want to make sure that the fridge works for awhile before I void the warranty. Once I'm sure that it works I'll do the modifications like trim the door and sides and add a two top tower. I also plan on adding a little fan unit to cool the tower and to move air around the fridge. If I cut the sidewalls I was planning to use some self adhesive duct insulation to cover it up. I have some from Home Depot. It seems to sticks well, is thin and even adds some R value.

(http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Ki...Duct-Insulation-FV516/100028603?N=5yc1vZc5hiI)

I bought two used and very dirty corny kegs for $35 from a local home brewing shop. I tried the kegs inside and they are very tight, so I got concerned. Now that I see others (braver than I) have forced this issue I'm no longer worried.

Lastly I can't thank you enough for showing me the other post. I had been searching the web for days and couldn't find anything..... Thanks!!!!
 
It seems like basically anyone with the Danby 044 or Danby 125 fridge has to do some mods to the door to make 2 kegs fit. I cut everything away from my door last night, its a pain but not difficult
 
As long as you stay with Ball Lock kegs and not pin lock (Coke) kegs you should be okay. I went with two used ball lock kegs. They were in awful condition but not too dented. I replaced the poppets, O rings and one of the pressure relief valves. I cleaned up the outsides of both, removed stickers and tape, paint, etc., then scrubbed them good and now they look almost new. I am pressure testing them right now and so far so good! I have a batch of German Altbier brewing in my primary fermenter. This will be my first kegged beer!
 
Hello folks. I'm a newbie to this sight who has been stalking looking for a decent kegerator refrigerator to convert. I just bought a DAR044A2SLDD from my local Costco and so far it has been running for 24 hours and seems to be working very well.

To me it seems very quiet but since my wife says I'm deaf due to my 24 years in the military, it may be loud to some folks, who knows. Thanks for all the great advice on what to do and not to do BTW.

Eventually it will make its way into a bar with a dual tap air cooled snake tower. I think I am going to shave the sides so I can wedge either a 1/6 barrell or a pin lock in with a corny or just improve the clearance for two cornys. I'll let you know how this all works out.

Brian
 
Brian-welcome to the site! This is great website, the other members have taught me a great deal. If you have a question, all you have to do is ask!

As for the fridge, mine has been running for a month or more and I don't have any issues at all. It doesn't seem noisy either. Right now I have a single Corny keg with a 5 lb CO2 tank in it. This is my first time kegging beer, so I'm only using a cheapo party tap. I just figured out how to fix the foam problem.

I am planning to add a second ball lock corny keg and a cooled Tap tower, but I'm going to wait a while to do so. I want to make sure that it will last thru the warranty period before I cut holes into it. I'm also trying to find something unique to use as a tap tower.

I'm not sure if you'll be able to fit in 2 pin lock or even one ball lock and one pin lock at the same time. Pin locks are about 1/2" wider than ball locks. You may have to really trim out the insides of the fridge too much. Let us know how it works out ........ and take plcs!
 
I had this fridge for my first kegerator, and what I did was take the door off then take the screws around the seal off. I then removed the entire door shelving and replaced it with plexiglass. Holes drilled so I could put the door seal back on. Here's a pic.

With this setup I could get two kegs and a five lb. co2 tank inside.

13066342173_9a7c563e8a.jpg
 
I had this fridge for my first kegerator, and what I did was take the door off then take the screws around the seal off. I then removed the entire door shelving and replaced it with plexiglass. Holes drilled so I could put the door seal back on. Here's a pic.

With this setup I could get two kegs and a five lb. co2 tank inside.

13066342173_9a7c563e8a.jpg

+1 I did the same thing.
 
Jafo28, I think you have a slightly older model that uses metal shelving brackets that hang off tracks in the back of the fridge. I didn't realize that mine was different until after I got it unpacked. On the newer model that I have, they made the side walls a lot thicker so the shelves could slide into slots cut into them. See the pic below.

All of those shelf slots need to ground off and the insulation sealed off some how to make room for the kegs. Don't get me wrong, I plan on doing this in a few months. Without doing anything I can get 2 ball locks into mine but they are jammed in real tight. They can't sit side be side either, one has to be a tad forward of the other.

They also changed the door on the newer model too. They now weld the inside door panel on so it needs to be cut away and can't be unscrewed. Cutting it away shouldn't be too hard but it isn't going to be as nice as yours jafo28....

Danby-Compact-Refrigerator-Costco-4.jpg
 
There is another thread with this fridge where people have got two corneys in there without cutting away the shelving mounts...but the stuff in the door has to go.
 
I just finished converting this fridge and you can definitely fit 2 ball locks in there without cutting away the shelf supports on the sides. However, you will have to modify the door to get it to shut. It's a real tight fit now that the shelf supports are on the sides and it took me a little while to figure out exactly how to place my kegs in order to get them to fit. I posted details of my build here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/danby-dar125sldd-kegerator-build-269314/index3.html#post5890754




Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
Does anybody know if there are more than one copper line in the wall of these refrigerators, I need to drill the side to run my tap line
Thanks,
 
Reviving this old thread to report I was able to convert this with a nice 2 tap tower (Perlick 650ss). However I had to significantly shave down the sides to fit my 2 draft Brewer ball lock kegs in there.

image.jpg
 
Reviving this old thread to report I was able to convert this with a nice 2 tap tower (Perlick 650ss). However I had to significantly shave down the sides to fit my 2 draft Brewer ball lock kegs in there.

What tool did you use to shave down those sides? Did you do both sides? Ran into coolant lines or electrical wires?
 
sorry, didn't see this until now. I used a thin box cutter blade and a long bread knife. It actually cut quite easily. you have to watch out for a wire on the right side but if you cut straight with the side surface you won't hit it.
 

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