Any reason to not use 80/20 in my brew rig?

[TimWeber]

I've been studying all of the brewing rigs on this site for a long time and am finally making the plunge into building my own system. I started drafting up my design about two months ago, a RIMS, based on the brewmagic and brutus 10.

I don't currently have any welding capabilities so I was planing to build my system with 80/20. http://www.8020.net/

Can anyone see any reason to not use 80/10? I think it allows for easier mounting, quick constructions, and easy disassembly. I talked to the sales rep at Rankin Automation and he said that the material can handle heat up to 300F until things start to loosen up.

I just read in the Brutus 10 plans that he strongly recommends against using aluminum, but the flames won't come into direct contact with the frame. Thoughts?

 

[mmb]

If you use the aluminum for the framing but use steel mount the burners and support the pots you might be ok. Although, 300F is fairly easy to get to with that close proximity to the burners, especially over a 60 or 90 min boil.

Otherwise, that's a fairly neat product. I've not seen it before...

 

[ClaudiusB]

I have been using 80/20 material for years.
My complete setup is made out of 15/30 and 15/15 framing.
The frame does not get hot, its all in the design of your burner location.



Cheers,
ClaudiusB

 

[Sawdustguy]

I've been studying all of the brewing rigs on this site for a long time and am finally making the plunge into building my own system. I started drafting up my design about two months ago, a RIMS, based on the brewmagic and brutus 10.

I don't currently have any welding capabilities so I was planing to build my system with 80/20. http://www.8020.net/

Can anyone see any reason to not use 80/10? I think it allows for easier mounting, quick constructions, and easy disassembly. I talked to the sales rep at Rankin Automation and he said that the material can handle heat up to 300F until things start to loosen up.

I just read in the Brutus 10 plans that he strongly recommends against using aluminum, but the flames won't come into direct contact with the frame. Thoughts?

300 degrees F is nothing when you are dealing with burners that put out 50000 + BTU's. Unless you are thinking of using electricity, I would not use aluminum. Of course, we can only suggest.

 

[ScubaSteve]

I'm not sure, but I think that's what the new Blichmann stands are made from. You should also look into unistrut...it's pretty burly, but probably less corrosion resistant.

 

[TimWeber]

I eventually want to go all electric, but for now I will be using two burners.

You're probably right. If the flames come into contact with the structure at all, that would be pretty bad. I think I would have to rig up some sort of steel stand off to prevent the flame reaching the frame.

I've used 80/20, and it's terrific. Never used it in a heating application though. I like that Unitstrut stuff. I've never heard of it before. I may make the frame out of 80/20 ant then use the unitstrut as a insert, or just make the whole frame out of unistrut.

 

[Lonnie Mac]

I have been using 80/20 material for years.
My complete setup is made out of 15/30 and 15/15 framing.
The frame does not get hot, its all in the design of your burner location.



Cheers,
ClaudiusB

Claudius is exactly right. It really is about design. I would not build a Brutus frame as I have designed it from al, mainly from the standpoint of heat conductivity. The whole frame would practically get hot... That was the real reason I recommended against it in the article. But you can easily design a system to where the burner heat does not come into contact with the frame. In that case you can use aluminum all day long! This is some great stuff to work with.

 

[BeernuT100]

I'm not sure, but I think that's what the new Blichmann stands are made from. You should also look into unistrut...it's pretty burly, but probably less corrosion resistant.

It is

follow chuckger's build: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/blichmann-modular-brewing-stand-top-tier-spring-09-a-97671/index2.html#post1594033

 

[TimWeber]

Yup, been following that build. It looks great. I am going for a two tier setup though, HLT on the top tier. I think I am going to use the 8020 and create a steel insert to isolate the frame from the flames.

 

[8020]

Good afternoon Tim! I am a member of the 80/20 team. I wanted to reassure you that Rankin knows what they are doing and can definitely offer assistance to help turn your drawings into 80/20 product. After you build your project, if you have some pictures, I'd enjoy seeing them!!! If you have any questions for 80/20, you can reach me at [email protected].

Thanks, and good brewing!!

Jeff H.

 

[ScubaSteve]

So, any updates? 80/20 is looking more attractive after I started looking at the cost of a welder and materials. I'd rather do it myself and be able to add/subtract later. One concern I have is shipping costs, another is strength.

I'm going all-electric, so heat isn't going to be an issue.....

 

[8020]

Good afternoon! My name is Jeff and I am with 80/20, Inc. If you would like, I would like to further discuss your needs and hopefully address your concerns about shipping costs and strength. Please feel free to call me at 260-248-8030.

Thanks; and have a GREAT day!

 

[Mirage]

Steve, please post back here about your findings if you end up calling them. It looks like cool stuff!

 

[TimWeber]

I am currently getting all the plumbing together before pulling the trigger on 8020. I actually talked with my local rep already. The stuff really isnt expensive when you compare it to having a professional welder do it. Plus like having the ability to take it apart and add components.

Be careful with the fasteners though. Those things can get expensive quick! They have an online ebay store where you can purchase cheaper used ones.

8020s website has a bunch of freeware, like a auto quoter and a deflection calculator.

I am still a few months from ordering but Ill start a thread once I get close to ordering.

 

[ChuckO]

Tim,

Just finished looking at the build thread of your welded steel design. What made you go with welded instead of the 8020?

I'm designing a new stand for spring build for an all electric system. If I go with steel I will need to have a local fab shop put it together but I can do bolt together myself.

Thanks