Any problems with scorched wort?

[jbb3]

I've brewed with propane for the last few years but have thought about building a small electric system, maybe?

One thing I'v thought and wondered about is if you have experienced and have had to deal with scorched wort given it's in direct contact with the element??

For those that have converted from propane to electric brewing, did you notice any change in your finished beers when you switched over (i.e.; taste, color, other...)??

 

[TexasWine]

I've brewed with propane for the last few years but have thought about building a small electric system, maybe?

One thing I'v thought and wondered about is if you have experienced and have had to deal with scorched wort given it's in direct contact with the element??

For those that have converted from propane to electric brewing, did you notice any change in your finished beers when you switched over (i.e.; taste, color, other...)??

I went from stove top gas to electric. Only had scorching in a couple of batches, both my fault. One I stopped the boil in the middle of, well, boiling. The proteins settled and when I kicked the elements back in there was scorching.

Other than that, no problemo. Making better beers than I ever have.

 

[jbb3]

I went from stove top gas to electric. Only had scorching in a couple of batches, both my fault. One I stopped the boil in the middle of, well, boiling. The proteins settled and when I kicked the elements back in there was scorching.

Other than that, no problemo. Making better beers than I ever have.

Thanks for the experience share.

 

[cod3ck]

Check out Kal's site (http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/). I'm pretty sure he reviews the scorching concerns you're talking about.

Regardless, I went with his recommendation on ULWD elements and have had no problems. Plus I find my beer tastes better and is more reproducible (probably due to being able to time my strike and boil heating times more accurately).

 

[TallDan]

Take for example, this heating element:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500_ripple.htm

It's 5500w and 60w per square inch. that means it's 91.67 square inches of surface area.

For a quick comparison, 8.5x11" standard sheet of paper is 93.5 square inches, which is pretty close. This would be the same as a circle with a diameter of 10.8 inches.

I'm sure people with jet-type burners and thin bottomed pots have much higher heat density on the bottom of their pot than that element has.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I have brewed with electric elements for many batches over the last 7 years or so. Like TW mentioned above, I scorched one batch of around 60. I paused the boil to run some errands, I believe the proteins settled and scorched badly on the elements.

This is using inexpensive high watt density 2000w 120v elements.

 

[MrVix]

I have brewed 15 batches on my electric brewery without a single issue. Much like gas-fired kettles you need to use some commonsense. I have always kept the inside of my gas-fired boil kettle immaculately clean just as I do with my element now. If I pause the boil, I always stir to re-suspend the proteins to avoid scorching...the same practice that I used for gas.

 

[jbb3]

Some good info here. I may push ahead with electric brewing after all...

Thanks All!

 

[BrunDog]

Take for example, this heating element:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500_ripple.htm

It's 5500w and 60w per square inch. that means it's 91.67 square inches of surface area.

For a quick comparison, 8.5x11" standard sheet of paper is 93.5 square inches, which is pretty close. This would be the same as a circle with a diameter of 10.8 inches.

I'm sure people with jet-type burners and thin bottomed pots have much higher heat density on the bottom of their pot than that element has.

Great point!

 

[RationalRev]

Some good info here. I may push ahead with electric brewing after all...

Thanks All!

Just get the ULWD element. It spreads the heat emitted over a larger surface. Save yourself the need to worry.

 

[augiedoggy]

Just get the ULWD element. It spreads the heat emitted over a larger surface. Save yourself the need to worry.

And if you still worry get a 4500w instead of the 5500w ripple elements which have the same surface area and less watt density that the 5500... Still plenty big and fast enough for boiling 13 gallons or less. it also draws less that 20a making wiring/ components cheaper and easier.

 

[kal]

Check out Kal's site (http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/). I'm pretty sure he reviews the scorching concerns you're talking about.

I've never had any issues myself, having made all sorts of beer styles from 10%+ Russian Imperial Stouts to the most delicate light lagers (think Corona).

I've had one or two people write me that they had issues but in talking to them they had never cleaned their heating elements. There was a thick layer of sludge on them that eventually burnt.

Keep the boil element reasonably clean and you'll be fine. I use a blue scrubby to wipe it down after brew day (rinsed with only water). Takes 2 mins. After ~5 years of use mine still looks new:

In the HLT I don't do anything given that there's only ever water in there.

Good luck!

Kal

 

[jbb3]

I've never had any issues myself, having made all sorts of beer styles from 10%+ Russian Imperial Stouts to the most delicate light lagers (think Corona).

I've had one or two people write me that they had issues but in talking to them they had never cleaned their heating elements. There was a thick layer of sludge on them that eventually burnt.

Keep the boil element reasonably clean and you'll be fine. I use a blue scrubby to wipe it down after brew day (rinsed with only water). Takes 2 mins. After ~5 years of use mine still looks new:

In the HLT I don't do anything given that there's only ever water in there.

Good luck!

Kal

Good to know! I'll have to comb through your site. Looks fairly comprehensive...

 

[brrman]

Good to know! I'll have to comb through your site. Looks fairly comprehensive...

you have no idea... lol