any downside to dryhopping and crash cooling simultaniously?

[crypt0]

I generally crash cool as long as possible to help clear the finished beer as much as possible. I also generally do not dry hop.

I'm doing vinny's pliny the elder recipe and here's my plan for dry hopping:

- primary fermentation finished last night; crash cooling primary for ~5 days
- rack to secondary and dry hop; crash cool/dry hop for 14 days
- keg and force carb (force carbing only for maximizing hop aroma)

Any issues with this?

 

[samc]

The dry hopping will be less effective at those lower temperatures. I just finished a batch of Pliny. Dry hopped for 10 days @ 68F, then crash cooled and kegged. No secondary - not needed. You can also add the final dry hop into the serving keg and leave it for added aroma.

 

[remilard]

The dry hopping will be less effective at those lower temperatures.

+1. At Russian River they chill to drop the yeast and then warm it back up to dry hop. Dry hopping cold gives an extremely grassy character that obviously some people like but it isn't the character that PtE has.

 

[crypt0]

Ok. I think my process will be crash cool for a week - 2 weeks, rack, dry hop at room temp for the two weeks, then one additional cold crash for a couple days, keg/carb.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Mpavlik22]

Ok. I think my process will be crash cool for a week - 2 weeks, rack, dry hop at room temp for the two weeks, then one additional cold crash for a couple days, keg/carb.

Thanks for the input.

Why not rack, dry hop, the crash cool after dry hopping. This way your not cooling down, warming up, then cooling back down.

 

[weirdboy]

Why do you want to crash cool it now? Cooling/warming/cooling is a surefire way to get permanent chill haze.

 

[crypt0]

Why do you want to crash cool it now? Cooling/warming/cooling is a surefire way to get permanent chill haze.

Hmm?...

+1. At Russian River they chill to drop the yeast and then warm it back up to dry hop.

I have always heard chill haze was caused by inadequate cooling after the boil, or starches left over from the mash... But I don't want to jack my own thread.

 

[weirdboy]

Hmm?...




I have always heard chill haze was caused by inadequate cooling after the boil, or starches left over from the mash... But I don't want to jack my own thread.

I am going by advice in this BYO article Fining Your Beer: Techniques, and my own anectdotal experience when I have let my crash-cooled batches come back up to room temp for various reasons.

Specifically, I am referring to this quote:

Chill haze is a haze that forms when beer is cooled and disappears when the beer warms up. Repeated heating and cooling cycles can cause chill haze to turn permanent. Chill haze is formed when proteins in the beer bond weakly with polyphenols (also called tannins).

The level of chill haze in beer increases over time. There are three ways to minimize or reduce chill haze: reduce the amount of haze-forming proteins, reduce the amount of polyphenols and remove the protein-polyphenol complexes after they have formed. We’ll go into this in further detail a bit later in the article.

 

[terrapinj]

+1. At Russian River they chill to drop the yeast and then warm it back up to dry hop. Dry hopping cold gives an extremely grassy character that obviously some people like but it isn't the character that PtE has.

interesting - i thought it was the other way around which is why people dry hop in keg for many weeks/months with no unwanted/grassy flavors

 

[samc]

It's interesting for sure, but in my case I've never had grassy flavors from dry hopping cold. It takes substantially longer for the dry hopping to work, but if you are hopping in the serving keg that can be an advantage.

 

[Bob]

I've always dry-hopped cold, pro and am. YMMV.

Bob