Bad Neighbors White Ale
The first batch was just called "white ale" until the neighbors kicked it in 3 days.The neighbors also destroyed the keg in less than 3 nights
Now it is "bad neighbors white ale"
Bad Neighbors White Ale
The first batch was just called "white ale" until the neighbors kicked it in 3 days.The neighbors also destroyed the keg in less than 3 nights
The hull wrecker looks exactly like my cereal killer just rebranded and not blue lol. same adjustments, base, size etc. Its a solid mill and well priced.
Probably the same person that sued McDonald's for being burned by hot coffee.
Anybody found a reasonable solution to that stupid gasket that constantly falls out of the lid? I was wondering if I could use one of the denture adhesives to hold that in? Wouldn’t that have to be food safe? Just a thought?
You’re talking about the metal support ring you rest the basket on when you lift it out. I’m talking about the white silicone gasket inside the lid. When I first got it, it only fell out occasionally. Now it won’t stay in. I line it up and press it in and it falls out again as soon as I pick the lid up. I gave up and just left it out when I brewed the last couple batches.I just pay attention to make sure I line the malt pipe up and I stopped catching the gasket with the legs. I have the 6.5 brewing 2.5 gal batches so granted I realize I’m not hoisting as much grain as larger batch brewers so it’s easier for me to lift the malt pipe straight up.
Duh. Yup. I read that wrong. Contact anvil. I’d get a new gasket. It’s supposed to stay snug. Or, but this may not be the case, you may not be fitting it in correctly. I’ve experiences that with gaskets for other devices.You’re talking about the metal support ring you rest the basket on when you lift it out. I’m talking about the white silicone gasket inside the lid. When I first got it, it only fell out occasionally. Now it won’t stay in. I line it up and press it in and it falls out again as soon as I pick the lid up. I gave up and just left it out when I brewed the last couple batches.
This may not apply...You’re talking about the metal support ring you rest the basket on when you lift it out. I’m talking about the white silicone gasket inside the lid. When I first got it, it only fell out occasionally. Now it won’t stay in. I line it up and press it in and it falls out again as soon as I pick the lid up. I gave up and just left it out when I brewed the last couple batches.
Anybody found a reasonable solution to that stupid gasket that constantly falls out of the lid? I was wondering if I could use one of the denture adhesives to hold that in? Wouldn’t that have to be food safe? Just a thought?
I spoke to anvil directly about the screen.. Not for use with the foundry.
No problem with gasket in 18 months of use.
I’ve had problems with that gasket since day one. I put a little silicone grease (keg lube) on the gasket and then batten it down on the foundry after it is clean and dry. It stays in a little better but not 100% of the time.Anybody found a reasonable solution to that stupid gasket that constantly falls out of the lid? I was wondering if I could use one of the denture adhesives to hold that in? Wouldn’t that have to be food safe? Just a thought?
You’re talking about the metal support ring you rest the basket on when you lift it out. I’m talking about the white silicone gasket inside the lid. When I first got it, it only fell out occasionally. Now it won’t stay in. I line it up and press it in and it falls out again as soon as I pick the lid up. I gave up and just left it out when I brewed the last couple batches.
So..2 batches in a row where the LHBS has mulled my grain, despite me asking them not to. (2 diff shops too)
I re-milled the first one to .028, sparged I think 3 gallons if I recall correctly which took for flipping ever and missed my numbers.
Latest batch had flaked oats already mixed into the milled grain...experience of missing my numbers anyways, I elected to Not re-mill, which I had planned on doing with a .030 gap this time based on conversations here. Used new pH meter, and I was aiming for 5.4, was at 5.35. Did a lift and dunk halfway during mash. Mashed out at 170 for 10. Sparged 1G. Squeezed the bajeeebers out of the damn bag
Should have been at 1.056 pre boil, was at 1.050 added .65lbs Golden DME. Post boil at 1.060, SG is supposed to be 1.066. Was worried that adding more golden light DME (all I had) was going to throw off malt bill (Idaho Pilsen) so I elected to just add table sugar (8oz) to get to 1.066. Recipe was based on 75%, clearly I didn’t hit those numbers.
Honestly...WTF
And you never mix flaked adjuncts in with the grains, wtf!?
@Bishop9.5 please elaborate on this..
I have not heard a defintive answer on if one should mill flaked oats, flaked wheat, flakee corn or not.
Also, why not add the oats in with the milled grain? Is there a better way to do it?
Last time I needed a sack of pils malt I couldn’t get to my “local” homebrew shop - which is over an hour’s drive from me. I bought a sack of Best Malz pilsen from the local brewpub. Very nice guys, they were happy to sell me one. That sack was pre-crushed. I never bought a sack pre-crushed before. I’ve been using that for months with no issues. Efficiency or otherwise. I keep the sack rolled up inside another rolled up plastic trash bag inside a rubbermaid storage tote.So..2 batches in a row where the LHBS has mulled my grain, despite me asking them not to. (2 diff shops too)
I re-milled the first one to .028, sparged I think 3 gallons if I recall correctly which took for flipping ever and missed my numbers.
Latest batch had flaked oats already mixed into the milled grain...experience of missing my numbers anyways, I elected to Not re-mill, which I had planned on doing with a .030 gap this time based on conversations here. Used new pH meter, and I was aiming for 5.4, was at 5.35. Did a lift and dunk halfway during mash. Mashed out at 170 for 10. Sparged 1G. Squeezed the bajeeebers out of the damn bag
Should have been at 1.056 pre boil, was at 1.050 added .65lbs Golden DME. Post boil at 1.060, SG is supposed to be 1.066. Was worried that adding more golden light DME (all I had) was going to throw off malt bill (Idaho Pilsen) so I elected to just add table sugar (8oz) to get to 1.066. Recipe was based on 75%, clearly I didn’t hit those numbers.
Honestly...WTF
While I would never boil with the latches attached, I normally boil with the lid slightly on (probably 3/4) otherwise I never hit 0.5 gallon boil off with no lid. Anyone else have similar results?
Sorry if this has already been covered, but has an ideal crush been determined for use without a bag in the malt pipe? I see .030 mentioned several times, but that seems to be with a bag.
I am considering finally getting my own mill and have no prior experience milling my own grain. Thanks!
It's here! It's here!
All parts appear to be in order.
I installed the two little 'catch brackets' on the malt pipe with the screws/bolts backwards... in other words the bolt and nut faces outward instead of inwards. I plan to use a bag and thoose seemed like a sharp shred point.
I am gonna do a test brew with PBW to test and clean the entire system... anyone have any advice or tips before my first brew?
I will do 120V first batch before i try my homemade 240V cord. I have the recirc pump kit so i will use that in the test to dial in flow rates and clean the hose etc.
Finally... i am SO glad i got a CUSS chiller... the included SS chiller doesn't even clear the top of the anvil! How in the heck does that even work with fittings?!?
Thanks for the tips all!
I got the 10.5.As for the chiller, what size Foundry did you get? I've got the 10.5 and the only issue I have with the chiller is that the top 2 coils sit above the wort line post boil.
I got the 10.5.
Here is a crappy picture that may or may not show it...
Top of coil (where the hose gets attached) is a good 6" or so under the top of the kettle.
Pointless since i got the tri-coil chiller anyways. But maybe helpful for others if they are considering all-in costs.
For me, this coil may become a pre-stage chiller depending on how low my wort gets (probably use it when the wort gets to 90 or so? Not sure yet.)
or maybe a cheap home made jockey box. We will see.
Gotta get my brewing going again regardless!
View attachment 727722
I think the hot water rises, so coils at the top vs. the bottom is better i guess. I was just shocked at how the chiller compared to the rest of the kettle setup. Everything else feels solid and well built (for example- the double wall insulation. Malt pipe, etc.)Yeah, that looks like mine. I just hang it off the edge of the kettle which is why the top two coils aren't submerged. Could be designed a little better but it's still pretty effective, especially when coupled with a whirlpool arm.
Brewed a German Alt today and was strange my pre-boil gravity got me all excited - 90.8% mash eff.. But, then my OG only changed by two points. Point above my target.
Why the high pre-boil? I double checked my measurement and used my 155F calibrated hydrometer? Need to mix wort more? I've been brewing for a long time and never had this happen.
Thanks
Mike
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