You need to join the Anvil Foundry group on Facebook. They have specs and links to all the parts you need for all the modifications that have been discussed here recently.
The photos they show on their site show the nipples and connectors, it appears you should have gotten them, I’d contact them. Worst case maybe you can buy them from them.It showed up today and I got it assembled. I'm glad I waited to order parts, I realized I need two adapters, one for the ball valve and one for the swirly/whirlpool arm as they both use the same thread. Also need an additional camlock fitting.
I got the nipples & connectors with the Foundry, but I want to attach 1/2" NPT to the threads, so I bought adapters.The photos they show on their site show the nipples and connectors, it appears you should have gotten them, I’d contact them. Worst case maybe you can buy them from them.
Removable = yes
NPT = no, straight thread (aka G thread), it's like shower hose to shower head thread, it relies on a gasket to make the seal, not the threads mushing into each other
There are adapters for straight to NPT if needed. Some folks put a ton of PTFE tape on and cross their fingers.
I did screw on NPT threads with no issue, I'm pretty confident that with some Teflon tape, you'd be good. Since I'm building this setup now and getting a ton of fittings, I figured Id just do it 'proper', even though it may be overkill.This is what I did on the ball valve. So far so good after 2 years.
That's where my head is at. It really only needs a flat gasket, not sure why they bothered with the groove. In the inside of the fitting leading towards the NPT end, there is a slight indent that looks to be an intended area for that extra gasket material, but it's tapered and is causing more of a flow restriction. I'm going to try to find flat silicone gaskets. Not sure I can cleanly increase the diameter of these by cutting/drilling.Strange. I guess the shape is to keep it located? I've actually never seen that. You can see where the sealing happens, and what part needs to be left and what part can be removed.
Worthwhile... I kind of bet you wouldn't notice the difference without a way to measure it. But if you're like me you'll end up removing it just to be sure
Trying to figure out what I'm looking at here. Are you trying to see if you will modify the ball valve outlet or is this picture of the swirly arm? FWIW, I never modified the ball valve in any way and no issues. I still use white clips to fixate the hose to the ball valve. My whirlpool is brewhardware's over the top whirlpool attachment and I did not put any fittings on it. I just put the hose on it with white clips to fixate. Done over 70 brews on this system this way with no issues. But, if you are enjoying yourself, tinker and modify away! Thats what the hobby is all about lolDo you guys think it's worthwhile to widen the hole in the G to NPT adapter silicone gasket? It looks like it's introducing restriction.
Or is the pump flow usually more than enough where the restriction will be helpful?
I bought 2 G-to-NPT adapters to allow me to use 1/2" NPT parts on Anvils ball valve and swirly arm, which use G threads.Trying to figure out what I'm looking at here. Are you trying to see if you will modify the ball valve outlet or is this picture of the swirly arm? FWIW, I never modified the ball valve in any way and no issues. I still use white clips to fixate the hose to the ball valve. My whirlpool is brewhardware's over the top whirlpool attachment and I did not put any fittings on it. I just put the hose on it with white clips to fixate. Done over 70 brews on this system this way with no issues. But, if you are enjoying yourself, tinker and modify away! Thats what the hobby is all about lol
That’s actually pretty awesome they are doing this now! I’ve got the first generation foundry and just cut the 120 plug off and had to rewire a 240 plug on it. Wondering if too many peeps burned down their house doing that and decided to make a standard choice on newer units. Risk mitigation strategy vs altruism lolNot sure if this is old news, but my Foundry came with a 240v plug with a 240 to 120 adapter plug. It's going to make the switch to 240 much easier
Agreed, I was surprised & happy when I saw it. Overall I'm happy with this generation, having the new electrical plug and no ring to hold the grain basket. The only thing I wish it had was 1/2" NPT threads on the ball valve and swirly arm, but this is minor.That’s actually pretty awesome they are doing this now! I’ve got the first generation foundry and just cut the 120 plug off and had to rewire a 240 plug on it. Wondering if too many peeps burned down their house doing that and decided to make a standard choice on newer units. Risk mitigation strategy vs altruism lol
Agreed, I was surprised & happy when I saw it. Overall I'm happy with this generation, having the new electrical plug and no ring to hold the grain basket. The only thing I wish it had was 1/2" NPT threads on the ball valve and swirly arm, but this is minor.
Do you have a pic of your setup? I think my problem with that will be my brew space, which is usually my kitchen. I won't have anywhere to park that thing.It's double your price point but if you have room take a look at this small scaffold. It's what I use and there is room for the pump, the Foundry and a bucket (for grain or setting your mash basket) on the platform... plus it has a fold out tool rest which I use to keep small things like thermapen... refractometer... hops... iPhone with brewing app running... etc.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/MetalTe...ool-Shelf-500-lbs-Capacity-I-IMCNAT/205477926
1. Can anyone share their mashing process as far as rice hulls, stirring, and how you recirculate?
Thanks, that's helpful.My normal process (5-6% ABV beers, in the 6.5) is to use the included pipe with a Wilser bag. I crush my own grains at a 0.030" gap (set with feeler gages). Bag goes in the pipe, and there's still just enough space for the Foundry perforated disc to go on top. The disc is angled however needed to visually get a flow across the whole surface. I use the Foundry recirc pipe connected to a pump with a ball valve in between. I throttle the flow to about 1/4 - 1/3 (guesstimate) of full flow. I stir the grains (top 2/3 of it perhaps, mostly so I don't scrape the actual bag) along with lift & lower the pipe about 3 times over an hour, to be sure it all gets mixed in (especially the dead water space on the side). Pump is temporarily turned off of course.
Per Brewer's friend I'm running about 70 - 75% efficiency and I don't ever get anything stuck. I used to do 4 - 8 oz. rice hulls per batch but over time quit that altogether. My measured temps are consistently 2 degrees F lower than the display screen. So consistently that I just add 2 onto whatever temp i actually want to mash at, and walk away.
6.5's a little easier as it's the same diameter just shorter, so I do have less grain (vertically measured) than 10.5 users. I run 240V at 35% for mashing, not sure for 10.5 or what voltage you have but as an aside you may not want 100%.
I'd suggest off the top to reduce your recirc rate a bit. Or, a lot.
Yeah, a kitchen will probably make using this problematic. I brew in the basement. It's cramped. My laundry room "brew house" is only about 10 feet wide and 7 feet deep. Here is a pic from an early brew...Do you have a pic of your setup? I think my problem with that will be my brew space, which is usually my kitchen. I won't have anywhere to park that thing.
That's how temperature stratification works. Hot water, cold grains, heater on the bottom, lack of recirculation or stirring to even it out... no company on the planet can say what grain temps you actually have.My brew day is not starting well. My Foundry temp screen reads 169 while my mash temp is actually 155. Starting to regret buying this thing.
Edit: It evened out once I did a few lifts of the mash basket and got the pump going. But I wish Blichmann/Anvil would correct this issue, somehow.
They don't need to know the grain temps, I set the strike water temp based on the amount of water, amount of grain, and grain temp. I wish they had a way to accurately give the temp of the water throughout the height of the basket and then maybe average it to make it more realistic. Maybe temp sensors along the sides of the kettle?That's how temperature stratification works. Hot water, cold grains, heater on the bottom, lack of recirculation or stirring to even it out... no company on the planet can say what grain temps you actually have.
I'd recommend lifting and lowering the basket (to mix the dead space on the sides) into the rest, as well as some stirring, every 15 minutes or so, the exact time isn't important but do it a few times. Keep the heater at a lower %, just enough to let things stay hot but not overshoot (try 50% and go up or down from there). And recirculate.
I find my grain bed is a very static 2 degrees less than what the temp sensor reads, and since it's by the heater that makes some sense. I account for that when I set the temp and good to go.
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