Affordable Accurate Mash Temp Controller.

[pat_carnig]

I am building an eherms mash setup (will still be boiling with propane) and am on a budget. I'd like to use this element to hold the water temp in the HLT (http://www.homebrewstuff.com/2000-w-ss-heat-stick-w-weldless-gasket-kit.html) and am looking for an affordable yet accurate way to control it. Would the STC-1000 work for this application? I already have a GFCI protected circuit on my brew stand with a simple on/off switch for power to the pump and future temp controller, just need to find an affordable solution to controlling the actual heating element.

EDIT: I realize the link says 2000w element, but as you can see in the description it's actually 1500w.

 

[wbarber69]

No you'd need an auber style (my pin seems to be cheapest) pid and an ssr with probably a pt-100 temp probe. To get accurate temps without overshooting too much. The stc-1000 is just a relay and can't handle switching the element as fast you're going to need to.


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[thebrewershub]

I use a stc 1000 to control mash temps. I dont over shoot mash temps either.

 

[pat_carnig]

No you'd need an auber style (my pin seems to be cheapest) pid and an ssr with probably a pt-100 temp probe. To get accurate temps without overshooting too much. The stc-1000 is just a relay and can't handle switching the element as fast you're going to need to.

I think I've decided to go with the PID in case I ever want to upgrade to a full electric system. But since I am new to this I could use a little help. I've seen tons of wiring diagrams but they all control at least one element and a pump. I have a GFCI protected outlet with an on/off switch on my stand, this will work to turn on the pump and temp controller (each on their own outlet). So would I only need to wire the probe and power to the PID, the PID to the SSR and the SSR to the element? If any electrically savvy individuals were able to work up a quick simple wiring diagram of just 1 PID and 1 element that would be awesome.

 

[wbarber69]

You'll probably want to do things a little differently. The ssr receives around 8vdc to signal the ssr to switch on. The ssr and wire to element will need to be rated for the amp draw of the element. Everything else can run like you stated

 

[wbarber69]

You'll probably want to do things a little differently. The ssr receives around 8vdc to signal the ssr to switch on. The ssr and wire to element will need to be rated for the amp draw of the element. Everything else can run like you stated