Advice on upcoming batch inspired by Hoppin Frog Mean Manalishi IIPA

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Philip_T

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Hi all,
First post here, so be gentle...
I'm still very noob to the home brew hobby, but have kind of dove in with both feet. I've only got 4 batches under my wings so far, two Imperial Russian Stouts, an oatmeal stout and a Stone inspired IPA. All partial mash brews.

Usually I'm not a big fan of IPA's, but I liked Stone's, so I gave it go. Currently 2 weeks in the primary on that one. I recently had a Hoppin Frog Mean Manalishi IIPA and thought I'd died and gone to heaven. This beer boasts huge hop aroma/flavors along with toasty malt flavors balanced just perfectly for my pallet. I need to attempt to make something like this. I doubt I'll be able to clone it, but if I can get in the ball park, I'd be more than happy.

I've tried searching for recipe's, but there is nothing out there. Tried contacting the brewer, but no luck there. All he mentioned was to try layering the specialty malts. From the website, I found that they use Summit and Columbus hops, and that the IBU's = 168 with an OG of 84 and 8.2% ABV. :eek:

Anyways, I've been playing around with a recipe and thought I'd post it here to get some advice....mostly on the hop additions to see if they sound right. Here's what I have so far....

malt & fermentables
% LB OZ Malt or Fermentable ppg °L
43% 6 8 Great Western Premium 2-Row Malt info 34 2
20% 3 0 Golden Promise info 32 2
20% 3 0 Pale Malt (Maris Otter) info 37 3
7% 1 0 Briess Amber DME info 43 5
2% 0 6 Briess Carapils info 34 1
2% 0 6 Weyermann CaraHell info 33 10
2% 0 6 Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L info 34 40
2% 0 4 Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L info 35 10
2% 0 4 Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L info 34 60
Batch size: 5.0 gallons


Original Gravity
1.081
(1.073 to 1.085)
Final Gravity
1.020
(1.017 to 1.021)
Color
9° SRM / 18° EBC
(Gold to Copper)
Mash Efficiency
75%

hops
use time oz variety form aa
first wort 60+ mins 0.25 Columbus info pellet 15.4
first wort 60+ mins 0.25 Summit info pellet 18.0
boil 60 mins 0.5 Columbus info pellet 15.4
boil 60 mins 0.5 Summit info pellet 18.0
boil 15 mins 1.25 Summit info pellet 18.0
boil 15 mins 0.25 Columbus info pellet 15.4
boil 10 mins 1.0 Columbus info pellet 15.4
boil 10 mins 1.0 Summit info pellet 18.0
dry hop 7 days 3.0 Summit info pellet 18.0
Boil: 6.0 avg gallons for 60 minutes


Bitterness
163.4 IBU / 25 HBU
ƒ: Tinseth
BU:GU
2.01

yeast
White Labs California Ale (WLP001) info
ale yeast in liquid form with medium flocculation and 76% attenuation


Alcohol
8.1% ABV / 6% ABW
Calories
267 per 12 oz.

misc
use time amount ingredient
boil 5 min 1 tsp Irish Moss
 
Looks like a hop bomb.

Just a couple of questions/observations.
1) Why the DME? Just bump up the amount of 2-row.
2) You may want to do a 15-10-5-0 instead of 15-15-10-10 for your late additions to add more depth to the flavor and aroma.

At what temp are you planning to mash?
 
163.4 IBU? That sounds terrible. I'd rather drink Star San... undiluted.

Others will disagree with me... some people have a taste for demonic taint.
 
Looks like a hop bomb.

Just a couple of questions/observations.
1) Why the DME? Just bump up the amount of 2-row.
2) You may want to do a 15-10-5-0 instead of 15-15-10-10 for your late additions to add more depth to the flavor and aroma.

At what temp are you planning to mash?

1.) I've been under the assumption that most partial mash recipe's require a DME addition. I'm not doing All Grain yet.
2.) Thanks for the late addition advice, I'll see how that tweaks it.

Mashing at 152.
 
163.4 IBU? That sounds terrible. I'd rather drink Star San... undiluted.

Others will disagree with me... some people have a taste for demonic taint.

If loving demonic taint is wrong, then I don't want to be right.... 163 IBU's damn near guarantees just about 100 actual IBU's in the beer.... AWESOME!!! Looks like a lot of specialty malts to me, but delicious either way.
 
Heck, if you can do the full amount of grain, go for it! I do partials, but thats because I can only boil about 2.5 gal so I can only mash about 5-6lb. You can always save back the dme in case you don't hit your gravity so long as you measure your runnings.

There's not a huge amount of crystal in there, so 152 is probably good for a mash temp. But I've never had the beer, if its particularly dry you could lower that, but at 168 IBUs you're gonna want some unfermentables in there. I've read somewhere that once you get past 100 IBUs its pretty tough to actually figure out how many you'll get, but either way I'd say it will be hoppy :D.

Good luck with the brew, and welcome to HBT!
 
Thanks,
I would say it does have a dry finish to it....but regarding the amount of unfermentables, does the mash temp help determine that? I'm still a little fuzzy on that part of the process. I kind of skipped the training wheel part of home brewing and went straight to the dirt bike part...

-Phil
 
I always figure the best way to learn is by doing! The wiki has a decent write-up if you don't mind a little science.

When it comes to mash temp, you've basically got two enzymes to worry about. One enzyme (beta) works well at lower temps and is good at making fermentable sugars from the starch, where the second (alpha) works at higher temps and makes non-fermentable sugars from the starch. Therefore, if you mash at lower temps (148-152) the beta is more active and makes your wort more fermentable (more maltose). If you mash at higher temps (154-158) the alpha is more active and makes more branched sugars that the yeast can't convert, but that add body to the beer. Most people shoot for the middle (152-154) to start off with to get the best of both worlds, but once you get into it you can play around with mash temps to help things out.

Your final gravity then will depend on two things, your yeast and your mash temp. I think the software programs generally just assume your yeast will chew through 75% of the gravity, but I might be mistaken. If you wanted to dry your beer out from your predicted FG of 1.020, you could mash at a lower temp and hope to bring it down. That would create more fermentable sugars for the yeast, and at the same time reduce the body of the final beer. Of course, your yeast will still only be able to do so much, but that's the idea at least.
 
1.) I've been under the assumption that most partial mash recipe's require a DME addition. I'm not doing All Grain yet.
2.) Thanks for the late addition advice, I'll see how that tweaks it.

Mashing at 152.

Hate to tell you this, but, from that recipe, you ARE doing all grain, with an addition of DME. ;)

Mashing at 152° for an hour should give you a really nice beer. With all the specialty grains and GP and MO, I wouldn't go higher.
 
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