30a gfci inline cord? Help please.

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nosnhojm20

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I can't find one at a reasonable price. Anyone have a clue where I can find one? 3 prong need. Running from the controller below to 3 prong dryer outlet.

http://www.highgravitybrew.com/productcart/pc/EBC-II-with-Infinite-Power-Control-p3073.htm

Like an idiot I already ordered the controller. I found the cord below, but didn't notice the locking mechanisms. Is it still usable??

https://store.cableorganizer.com/p-...ing-plug-connectors-240v30a-103-awg-3-ft.aspx


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You should be able to use that. I've got a 3-prong dryer outlet as well, and I use connections like the one on the GFCI you posted on everything else.

If it comes down to it, you could cut off one of those connectors and put a 3-prong dryer plug on it instead.
 
Right on! I don't know this stuff from my elbow, and SWMBO would appreciate me not burning the house down (or spending more money on an unneeded $100+ item).


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I'd contact HighGravityBrew to get the right setup/connection. These things are not shipped from shelf stock anyway.

The 3-prong feed connector cannot be used with GFCI from their description. 4-wire is needed for that, it has a separate ground.
 
The outlet is three prong, hence this inline. Does that change your perspective or am I acting a-fool?


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I don't think a GFCI is going to work with the 3-line power cord. You should probably look at the 3-in, 4-out spa panel GFCI solution, and plug that into your dryer outlet, and get the 4-wire cord from High Gravity.
 
Yea, trying to avoid a panel install is the thing. Am I just off track and this isn't feasible?


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The spa panel jeff is talking about doesn't have to be a permanent install. It can have a short cord with a plug that plugs into the dryer receptacle when you need it. It takes a 3-wire 240vac input and converts it to 4-wire 240vac output with gfci protection. It isn't as ideal but it gets the job done and increases safety. At least that is what the experts tell me.
 
Sandy, is the line running straight from the breaker? I'm slightly confused, but it doesn't take much.


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I should be able to cut my wire in half, cut the ends off the GFCI inline, and splice everything together, right? Since everything is 3 prong the wire has to be the same, right?


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That's awesome! Thanks. Unfortunately I don't own the house and SWMBO won't allow the DIY stuff. Rightfully so because I don't know what the F I'm doing and it would void the home owners insurance. Hence the hell bend on inline GFCI.


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For my set up I upgraded my dryer outlet from a 3 to 4 prong but your issue is a little different. There are multiple options on the EBC II so the first question is what did you select. Assuming you picked the 3 prong plug you could buy a new 3 prong cord end for the male end of the inline GFCI and then buy an electrical box and 3 prong outlet for the female end. It seems like the GFCI cord you bough is only 3 wires, which is strange, but would facilitate swapping the connections on the end. Another option, as long you selected the twist lock outlet on the EBC II and your element is twist lock, would be to wire the GFCI between the EBC II and your element. I don't think that is ideal and would not recommend it but would still provide the most important aspect of protection in that your kettle/ element would be ground fault protected.

I think I spa panel would work better for you and be cheaper than that inline gfci cord if you have not ordered it already.
 
Thanks! Already ordered. 3 prong non-twist locks. I did this because I thought this inline would work with non-twist locks. I was avoiding adding any panels because a professional electrician (required not to void homeowners insurance - girlfriend's house, not mine) is more expensive. Now realizing I should have done things differently, but the hand has been dealt. Or sowed my own bed. Whatever.

Would I be good with the gfci if I cut off the plug/receptacle and spliced it into the wire? Is that even possible?




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Mark, sounds like I can easily change out the connections, eh?


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What exactly did you order? You don't want to splice but if you ordered a cord end then yeah you would cut off the twist lock and then strip a half inch of each wire and wire it into the 3 prong cord end. On the other end if you just ordered a standard 3 prong outlet then you would need to mount that inside a electrical box but again cut the cord end and wire it into the outlet. If you found a cord end type 3 prong outlet then the electrical box would not be needed.
 
You need this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MIAMDK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 or http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPFZHM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 for the male end of the GFCI. For the female end that the EBCII will plug into you need this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FK9X2G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 inside an electric box or something like this but with the NEMA 10-30P connector http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FK9X2G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20. I could not find a cord end type 10-30P outlet but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist I just got tired of searching.
 
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I am not an electrician, but I still believe that the inline GFCI will not work with the 3-wire configuration into your High Gravity controller. High Gravity states that a GFCI will not work with their 3-wire cord. I suspect that the way they have wired the controller with the 3-wire cord, the GFCI will always trip because the neutral circuit derived in the controller will cause an imbalance between the two hot lines. Before you invest any more time or money on this, I would contact them.
 
I am not an electrician either but the inline GFCI cord he bought is only 3 wire. I read the disclaimer on High Gravity as well that for it to work with a GFCI you need the 4 wire option but again the GFCI cord itself is only 3 wire. I really don't know the concepts behind this but would hope that it would work the way the product is sold.
 
I bought the EBC II and the wire (haven't received it yet but being built and paid for). I haven't bought the GFCI yet though. I have spoken with the manufacturer of another GFCI product and have been told this would would. It was a technical support staff member and not a sales staff so I'm hoping this may meet my (and the e-brewing community's) need. Turns out they are also a home brewer which was pretty cool.

Here is a NEW GFCI gadget I found. There are wiring diagrams and the such on the page. What do you all think?? Is it the holy grail?

http://www.trci.net/products/shock-shield/user-attachables/high-power-gfci
Part #: 25500 001-1 GFCI
 
I found that page as well and was interested but could never find a retailer. If you can and it is a good price then you are in luck. Still, though, if you have not bought the GFCI cord you really should consider getting a spa panel and wire it as the thread describes. When I was market for one I think it was about $50 for the panel inside an electrical box. You would then need the male cord end and outlet I provided links to earlier and a few feet of 10/2 wire to connect the box to the male NEMA 10-30 Plug.
 
Just noticed the 25500 001-1 is 3 phase. That will not work for you. I do not understand 3 phase power but it is not the same as your dryer outlet it is used in industrial applications. None of this stuff should really be done without an electrician but getting the panel vs the cord does not make a difference. You would be wiring up the panel as an inline GFCI. 10/2 wire to connect and NEMA 10-30 male plug end for where it plugs into the wall at your dryer outlet. For the GFCI protected outlet where the EBCII would plug in you would need to cut an appropriate sized holed in the side of the box that came with the spa panel and then mount the 10-30 outlet I provided a link to earlier. Of course you don't need to use Amazon but they seemed to have some of the best prices for me.
 
I am not an electrician either but the inline GFCI cord he bought is only 3 wire. I read the disclaimer on High Gravity as well that for it to work with a GFCI you need the 4 wire option but again the GFCI cord itself is only 3 wire. I really don't know the concepts behind this but would hope that it would work the way the product is sold.

You can hope all you want. :)

Seriously, though, I think the basic issue is that the inline GFCI linked to is a 240v only device, H-H-G, where the GFCI trips if the hot lines do not balance. The 3-wire cord on the High Gravity unit is H-H-N (they say it is a standard dryer cord) running a 240/120v device. When power goes through the neutral wire in the 120v circuit, the GFCI sees that the hot lines are not balanced, and trips. The spa panel on the other hand, has H-H-N-G, and its GFCI includes H-H-N when monitoring for an "out-of-balance" scenario.

High Gravity likely states that it will not work for a reason. And perhaps there are other ways to work around it, but we know the spa panel with 4 wires going to the control panel works.
 
Damn it. What about the 40a line? That's single phase. I assume I need single phase based on what you're saying. Figure that it's on a 30a breaker.

I'd love to have it inline for mobility, too.


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Have you checked the actual wiring to the dryer outlet? Recent and new dryer installations must be 3-wire (H-H-N) + ground (G), using a 4-prong receptacle, thus featuring dedicated Neutral and Ground conductors. It is possible you have 10/3 w/g wiring already but going into an older style 3-prong outlet.

If that's the case you only need to upgrade to a 4-prong receptacle and change your EBC-II order.

It probably takes quite a bit to get the dryer wiring and socket "upgraded" even if the panel is close and easily accessible. And you'd still need to buy the $100 in-line GFCI.

The Spa panels are $50-75 plus cord, plug, and 4-prong receptacle. A true GFCI bargain compared to the alternative. You do need a "qualified" someone to assemble it, though.
 
Thanks. I'll look into it. From what I've read and been told, a dryer can't run off a gfci breaker though.

I've requested that the order be changed but haven't heard back confirming (and what additional expense it will be, but I only sent the email last night at 9pm). I'll hire an electrician to install a GFCI plug right below the existing box, or a sub panel, whatever their recommendation is.


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Thanks. I'll look into it. From what I've read and been told, a dryer can't run off a gfci breaker though.

I've requested that the order be changed but haven't heard back confirming (and what additional expense it will be, but I only sent the email last night at 9pm). I'll hire an electrician to install a GFCI plug right below the existing box, or a sub panel, whatever their recommendation is.


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That sounds like a plan. I would ask them to put the order on hold until you know what connection you'll have.

Just for reference, 240V (double pole) GFCI breakers that go inside your breaker panel are ridiculously expensive ($120-190!). That's why the spa panel is such a good bargain. Plus it gives you CFGI on the 120V side too.
 
And if you wire the spa panel to plug into your dryer outlet (no drying while brewing), you have a portable GFCI that you can take with you.
 
And if you wire the spa panel to plug into your dryer outlet (no drying while brewing), you have a portable GFCI that you can take with you.


Does that mean that I'd have two plugs next to each other? I'm trying to visualize this (while extraordinarily hungover. Saison finished carbing last night)


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It means that when you want to brew, you unplug the dryer and plug in the spa panel that feeds your control panel. When you want to dry, you unplug the spa panel and plug in the dryer.
 
And you can put the spa panel away somewhere when you are not using it. It does not need to be mounted to anything, permanently or otherwise.
 
You should hire an electrician but as everyone has stated the spa panel doesn't need to be mounted. You need a NEMA 10-30 male plug to connect to the dryer outlet and if the EBCII can be changed then L14-30P outlet for it to plug into the spa panel. Also 10/2 or 10/3 wire to connect plug to the spa panel. Whoever you hire may or may not have these already on hand, but generally ordering online will get you a better price.
 
Awesome. Exploring the spa panel idea, waiting on the electrician to get back to me. With the spa panel would I avoid having to get a permit from the city? Or would I need a permit so not to void homeowners insurance?

Side note: Dave at high gravity is freaking awesome. He has replied to my emails promptly and is dealing with all my BS in stride. Major kudos to him.


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