240V RIMS control panel GFI question

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illomenbrewery

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Jul 5, 2014
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Location
Mons, Belgium
Hey how is it going? I just have a few questions on building my RIMS controller. I am switching from my propane burner setup to an electric 2 vessel RIMS system (similar to Joe, terpschoreankid). I am originally from the US, but currently live in Belgium. I am running 220/240 natively here, so a lot of things have been weird to me when trying to deal with electricity. My current setup is a 240v 5500 watt element that is in my brew kettle. My mashtun will recirculate from mashtun to the brew kettle instead of a rims tube, then drain into the kettle to start my boil. So, one pump, the 240v 5500 watt element, and my Auber EZ Boil would be running off the controller. My control panel is pretty much a 30A control setup and my outlet in my garage is running 40A 240V from my house circuit breaker. Most control panel builds I have seen online run a GFI breaker at least 30A. My question is, since I run 240V native do I still have to run a separate GFI breaker between my controller and my house circuit breaker?


My equipment list:

Controller:
16 Gallon MashTun and Kettle
Single Auber EZBoil DSPR120
3x switches (master, pump, element)
3x LED indicators
25A SSR w/external heat sink
RTD temp probe
240v 5500W heating element (brewhardware.com)
Electric pump NOVAX B 20mm (https://www.brouwland.com/en/our-pr.../electric-pump-novax-b-20mm?gaCategory=search)


Thanks!
 
The GFI is to protect against leak current to ground; keeps you from getting electrocuted in the event that the element separates and energizes the chassis.
The breaker's job is to protect your wire insulation from being compromised due to heat damage; keeps your house from burning down in the event of a short.

So regardless of the voltage you should have a GFI when working near wet areas.
A GFI breaker can be installed in your house panel to tackle both jobs, or an additional trip unit can be installed in a remote panel.
 
buying a 50a spa panel and wiring it as a sub disconnect box is the most cost effective way to go... a 50a GFCI will still work as a gfci only even with 30a or less current and you main breaker still does its job to preven overcurrent draw.
 
the reason many folks here in the states use a spa panel is that a spa panel with integral gfci breaker is often cheaper than purchasing just the breaker. sounds crazy but it has to do with markets, product volumes, etc. in europe, i believe gfcis are use in more places than required here in the states and as such are more attractively priced. in europe, a spa panel may be more expensive than just the breaker so check pricing.

also, i believe europe uses residual current devices (rcd), not gfci. here in the states, when we are talking about gfci we are most often speaking of class a gfci protection, which offers tripping in the 4-6 milliamp range and is designed to protect people. there are other gfci classes that trip at higher currents and are designed for equipment protection. europe has a similar arrangement, with different 'classes' that have different trip currents. i think 10 milliamp is as low as it goes in europe, that is the type of breaker you will want to 'mimic' gfci protection.
 
:off:my first brewer tour was a little brewery in Ieper Belgium in the cities wall... It used to be a world war 1 officers bunker... very cool place! I tore my rotator cuff carrying all that Belgian beer around the airport in my luggage leaving!

Nice I might have to check that out. I have only been on the "bigger" tours like Chimay etc.



@itsnotrequired Thanks for the info, I will have to check into that. I would definitely want to be safe and not have to worry about my safety whatsoever.
 
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