20 amp circuit, 15 amp outlets. What to do?

[NWMushroom]

I have a 120v outlet on its own circuit that I want to use for electric brewing. I'll be drawing right around 20 amps (heat element and pump). The breaker for the circuit is 20 amp, but the GFCI outlets are the 15 amp type.

Can I just use a converter like this?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DVE8SCE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Or should I really switch out the outlet with something like this?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...est-GFCI-Outlet-White-R12-GFNT2-0RW/205996739

I rent so don't want to change things out too much if I can avoid it.

I understand that if running a 20 amp circuit, the circuit should be using 12 AWG wiring. I know the circuit is on a 20 amp breaker, but I wanted to be sure. I opened the outlet but am not sure how to double-check this. I've attached photos - does this look like 12 AWG?

 

[sniktaw]

Are you certain the outlet is only 15 amp? The bottem picture seems to say that it is 20 amp. Also how close to 20 amps are you going to be pulling?

 

[TechyDork]

looks like the outlet is 20A to me.

 

[NWMushroom]

I meant the plug 'style' is for 15 amp. ie the outlet doesn't have the 20a 'tee'

 

[sniktaw]

Ok. Does the plug on your equipment have the side bar, or will it fit into the outlet? If it fits, then your good to go. Also, the wiring "should" be sized properly in the wall if it is a 20 amp outlet on a 20 amp breaker.

 

[NWMushroom]

The plug on the equipment WILL have the side bar.

http://www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/BIAB-Electric-Brewing-System-120V-p4647.htm

 

[sniktaw]

Ok, that helps. Someone with more expertise might correct me, but I think the converter will not work because it will be pulling more amps than the converter (15) will allow. If you don't want to change the outlet, you can look at changing the plug instead. Here's a link to help with that:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_447115-48412-89614_1z0yt4p__?productId=4618722&pl=1

 

[jerni21]

licensed electrician, it's legal to have a 15A receptacle on a 20A circuit, however if the equipment has the "t" 20 amp plug in you will need a 20A receptacle

 

[itsnotrequired]

sure looks like #12 wire to me. if it is a modern home and not built by a hack, no reason to think otherwise. go down to lowes, home depot, etc. and get yourself a 20 amp gfci receptacle that can accept a 5-20P plug (which is what comes with the high gravity system). or cut the cord and use a different plug.

several options here but don't bother with that converter you linked. it is only rated up to 1875 watts, smaller than your heating element. practically, you will probably be fine but i wouldn't risk it. go with a new recep or a new plug. plug will be cheaper but more work. probably save $5 or so.

 

[NWMushroom]

sure looks like #12 wire to me. if it is a modern home and not built by a hack, no reason to think otherwise. go down to lowes, home depot, etc. and get yourself a 20 amp gfci receptacle that can accept a 5-20P plug (which is what comes with the high gravity system). or cut the cord and use a different plug.

several options here but don't bother with that converter you linked. it is only rated up to 1875 watts, smaller than your heating element. practically, you will probably be fine but i wouldn't risk it. go with a new recep or a new plug. plug will be cheaper but more work. probably save $5 or so.

Not a modern home (built in 1922) but I believe this outlet/circuit is a new addition.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I believe you can run 20 amps with the outlet as is assuming no other loads on the circuit.

The "new style" 20 amp plug style is on equipment that requires 20 amps to forbid a user from using a 15 amp circuit.

Jmo, I would use it as it is with a quality plug to match.

And of course not plug it into a 15 amp circuit.

 

[beerlover77]

I am a certified electrician (from Canada) Up here houses are wired with #14 wire unless it is a kitchen counter receptacle or a known 20 amp load.

2250 watts will draw 18.75 amps at max power load. A 15 amp breaker will trip on this load.

For code you require: a 20 amp breaker,20 amp receptacle and #12 wiring.
If you use #14 wire at 2250 watts, the wire will heat up more causing even more amps to be drawn.
This may trip your breaker, cause a fire or simply just remain warm.

There is NO way someone can tell if that is #12 awg wiring from that picture however, if there is a 20 amp breaker and 20 amp GFCI (as the picture shows), it was probably wired with #12 awg

I would not cut your existing plug off and add a different one as that will void warranty and possibly insurance if a fire ever happens. If the one on the wall is rated for 20 amps and the equipment fits it, you are good to go. If not, change out the GFCI for one that matches the equipment.

 

[gnef]

If you have a set of calipers, you can easily check to make sure the wire is 12 awg. I found this table with a quick search: https://www.tedpella.com/company_html/wire-gauge-vs-dia.htm

The wiring is what is most important - you do not want a fire starting inside the wall of your house.

Replacing the GFCI outlet is easy enough if the wiring is the correct diameter, that seems to be the easiest route rather than get a covnerter or splice a new connector on the system that you are getting.

 

[dmcman73]

Not a modern home (built in 1922) but I believe this outlet/circuit is a new addition.

The wiring in your picture is "modern". If it was original with the house from the 1920's then you would have seen black cloth like strands around the plastic insulation of the wires like in the pic I attached.

As far as it being #12, usually, I mean USUALLY a good electrician will use #12 for all outlets and #14 for all lights and light switches which is what I do. It looks like #12 to me but as someone else pointed out, use a set of calipers to measure the thickness of the wire. If it's #12, you can actually change the plug out yourself, just cut the circuit at the circuit breaker panel and swap out the plug. Hot side (black wire) will go to the Brass colored screw on the outlet and the Neutral (white wire) to the silver colored screw on the outlet. The ground wire will then get tied to the Green colored screw.

Just for the sake of it, I tend to put about two wraps of electrical tape around the outlet / switch to cover the screws the wire is tied to.

 

[bsperr]

Do you have a pair of wire strippers? Just check the gauge of the wire with the appropriate die on the stripper (with the power off of course) to confirm whether it's 12 or 14. My guess is 12 gauge.

 

[HopeBrew]

Can you take a look in the panel to see what color the romex is for that circuit? I'm no electrician, but even if that is a 20a circuit, I'd be wary of that load. Even at 18.75a you're still well above 80% load. I'm surprised the manufacturer doesn't recommend a 30a circuit, considering you have to run the pump as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew