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ifearnothing0

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Favorite methods for adding citrus fruits to a heavy iipa , pros and cons please ... 2nd - if I make a starter , and only hand swirl it fairly often for 20 hours or so , should I expect it to ferm and fall quicker ?
 
I like the "C" hops. Citra, Cascade, and Centennial are some I've used with good "grapefruit" effect. Amarillo is awesome too. I'd stay away from actual fruit in an IPA as it will clash with the bitterness profile and may lead to astringent flavors.
Check MrMalty.com for your starter. It shows how much you'll increase your yield based on different methods such as intermittent shaking, stir plate, etc. You're not necessarily looking to make it quicker, just to increase the growth factor...
 
Thanks for the quick replies bros .. About the starter , I was only wondering because this batch seemed to grow a krausen , ferm violently , then calm down and fall much more quickly than our already very aggressive fermentations , I plan on taking a reading on it this weekend before we dry hop
 
It is most likely still fermenting. I've had some do weird things like that for odd reasons I could never track down. With a starter, even a 20hr starter you are getting a much healthier yeast population. They're awake and ready to rock when you pitch.

If you really want to wow the citrus flavor you could always do some zesting of citrus rinds, but as stated above, the astringency of the citrus would actually take away from the IPA IMO. I'd hit it with your typical bittering hops (I'm a big fan of magnum for my pales and IPA's) then Amarillo and Citra for flavor/aroma, and dry hop the heck out of it with Citra. In my opinion Citra is golden as a late addition/dry hop, especially when paired with Amarillo. I am also a big fan of using Cascades, but in this situation would use them no later than 30min to keep the Amarillo/Citra blast going. Just my opinion, hopefully we can get some more.
 
Thanks for the quick replies bros .. About the starter , I was only wondering because this batch seemed to grow a krausen , ferm violently , then calm down and fall much more quickly than our already very aggressive fermentations , I plan on taking a reading on it this weekend before we dry hop

Tough to comment on this one without some more info. Yeast strain, temperatures, aeration technique etc... Not sure even if you are talking about your beer or starter. Any variable that changes can get you different results...
 
Demus said:
Tough to comment on this one without some more info. Yeast strain, temperatures, aeration technique etc... Not sure even if you are talking about your beer or starter. Any variable that changes can get you different results...

Oh sorry sir , I was asking if I should expect the beer to finish faster whit the 20 hour hand swirled starter ... Yeast strain was white labs Cali ale ... Aeration teq was jus high pouring the cool wort into a carboy through a a fine strainer , then high pouring the 2 gallons of top off water ... Temps were 68 - 72
 
Oh sorry sir , I was asking if I should expect the beer to finish faster whit the 20 hour hand swirled starter ... Yeast strain was white labs Cali ale ... Aeration teq was jus high pouring the cool wort into a carboy through a a fine strainer , then high pouring the 2 gallons of top off water ... Temps were 68 - 72

No worries! The speed of fermentation has many variables. Unless your pitch rate is way low(which I doubt since you made a starter), temperature probably has a bigger effect on overall fermentation time. Your aeration technique creates an oxygen poor wort, so if you're having issues I'd focus there. Yeast need adequate oxygen during the lag phase for good health and reproduction(8 to 10 ppm). You can get away with less with a healthy starter grown to recommended pitch rates, but you'd still be better off improving your aeration. Even pouring back and forth a few more times or vigorously shaking for 5 minutes wouls help, but I read a study that showed the standard carboy shake for 5 minutes only resulted in 2.7 ppm dissolved oxygen. Air only has 8 ppm, so that's the maximum even if you shake it all day or use an aquarium pump and air stone. I got an oxygen tank and metal airstone setup a few years ago and saw an immediate improvement in my beers. 1 minute of pure oxygen results in the 8 to 10 ppm and couldn't be easier. And if you ever do a big beer like barley wine oxygen is really a necessity for consistant success. I've accumulated plenty of gizmos and gadgets over the years but my oxygen injection system is the last one I'd give up...
 
Update ..... My Avery's maharaja clone -- OG 1.120 has dropped to 1.028ish in only 9 day off our first attempt at a starter ... Took a g reading and a taster and dropped a oz of citra instead of the recipes 1/2 o Columbus and 1/2 of centennial .... Taster was still pretty sugary , sharpe and alcoholic , and seemed to have quite a bit of solids floatin in it .. Gonna start cold crashing it Saturday afternoon probably and keg it Sunday
 
Update bros ... The brew finished out a excepted FG but still very sweet , tastes unfinished ... I think next time we brew another 11+ abv beer we need to make sure we double pitch or make sure our starter is way tougher than this 1 lol
 
Update bros ... The brew finished out a excepted FG but still very sweet , tastes unfinished ... I think next time we brew another 11+ abv beer we need to make sure we double pitch or make sure our starter is way tougher than this 1 lol

Don't take this the wrong way but, based on your questions you are unlikely to make a good 1.100+ beer very good at this point. I'm not being critical, just trying to spare you future poor results. Big beers are challenging for experts; as gravity goes up so do all the effects of imperfections. Why not perfect your process with beers in the 1.040 to 1.070 range? Think of it like golf. After your first few visits to the range are you going to drop $300 for a round at pebble beach?
 
Demus said:
Don't take this the wrong way but, based on your questions you are unlikely to make a good 1.100+ beer very good at this point. I'm not being critical, just trying to spare you future poor results. Big beers are challenging for experts; as gravity goes up so do all the effects of imperfections. Why not perfect your process with beers in the 1.040 to 1.070 range? Think of it like golf. After your first few visits to the range are you going to drop $300 for a round at pebble beach?

Well for your information , this was the same recipe I brewed last month and it came out fantastic .. The only major change we made to this batch was we didn't double pitch
 
Well for your information , this was the same recipe I brewed last month and it came out fantastic .. The only major change we made to this batch was we didn't double pitch

Just trying to help. Probably shouldn't ask questions you don't want the answer to...
 
Demus said:
Just trying to help. Probably shouldn't ask questions you don't want the answer to...

I already brewed this beer once successfully bro , ease back
 
ifearnothing0 said:
I already brewed this beer once successfully bro , ease back

See but here's the problem, you are brewing by calendar and yeast don't work that way.

Regardless of what your gravity told you your taste buds said it was sweet, alcoholic and unfinished.

Did you bother taking another reading? Did it change? Beer that large does not finish in 9 days, those last several points can take a while and based on your taste test it sounds like it wasn't done.

The previous poster is correct, you asked questions and got answers. Honestly after reading the thread through I'm not really sure what you're looking for.

Just because you double pitched, doesn't really mean anything with out also explaining your process. In addition we don't even know your ingredients or recipe all of which would help.

Just because you brewed something once successfully and then change certain elements, it's no longer the same beer and may not act the same way.

Btw, not a bro.........
 
Here's my input! I totally agree that we shouldn't expect well-fermented booze to come without experimentation. I also agree that it's good to pay attention to what's happening, and not worry about time. I started my brewing career with hooch (wine, if you call it that) and learned a lot from a ****load of koolaid that tastes like koolaid but gets you drunk if you drink enough of it fast enough. My first beer was a barleywine, and the lightest beer I have made was around the 1.090 OG mark. They have all turned out ranging from drinkable to pretty good. What I've learned is that you gotta pay attention to what the yeasts are doing and what they are feeling. Work your numbers out good, in terms of gravities, alcohols, and tolerances, make a good starter, stir (aerate when appropriate, or just shake the carboy to suspend the yeasts) as often as you think about it, and don't bottle until they're ready. I find that the best indicator of when the yeasts are done is what the beer looks like compared to the trub. When they're done, they'll settle out (you may have to wait a couple months for carbonation, but it's worth it for a tasty high power drink). This goes equally well for wine (or country/koolaid wine) and for beer, in my experience. It's only a science to a point; you have to understand and guide the yeasts to help them achieve their greatest potential.
 

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