cheesecake
Well-Known Member
I am assuming the low boil off is cause the pot has a small diameter? How would you describe your boil? hard soft rolling violent?
Yeah I get a pretty hard boil and the narrow pot keeps it down
I am assuming the low boil off is cause the pot has a small diameter? How would you describe your boil? hard soft rolling violent?
So first, big shout out to jrb, PJ, and everyone for this awesome thread. You guys really should go into business together and sell these setups.
I have just finished wiring up my controller, following PJ's diagram for one element. I finally worked up the courage to plug it in and turn it on. Everything seems fine, save for when I turn the element switch on, my contactor makes some crazy rattling noise. I do have it mounted super solid and tight. I haven't found much info online as to the problem. Any insight would help.
(I really should just go find an electrician, but thought I would try here first.)
jrb03,
I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.
I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.
I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.
I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)
I hope this is of some help to you.
As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")
Wishing you the best.
P-J
Wow P-J, I am truly grateful that you took the time to draw that for me. I have studied many of your drawings trying to figure out how to convert them to 110v and auber switches. This is absolutely perfect. I have studied your drawing and have everything ordered from Auber now! I will make a trip to the hardware store this weekend to pickup the wire and terminals. What size wire do I need to use? Does it all need to be low gauge?
Thanks again for the great drawing. I will make sure to document my build here in case it can be of help to someone in the future.
P-J and jrb03It pleases me a great deal that I could help you in your adventure.
Regarding the wire: You will need #12 wire for the power being delivered to the SSR and the heating element. The pump outlet wire should be #14. All of the balance of the wiring can done with much smaller wire gauge as the current draw is very small.
Please feel free to ask any questions that you might have.
Oh: Another benefit of this set up is that it can very easily be converted to a 240V BIAB setup. Think about that and if you would like a plan for that for your future adventures, Please let me know.
Wishing you great success.
P-J
P-J and jrb03
Thank you jrb03 and P-J for this thread and wiring diagram. I am planning the same as your OP with a 2000 Watt.
I wish to see if I have a grasp of the wiring gauge to use for the various switches etc. Here is my understanding:
1. 12 gauge for Line in-->SSR-->Contactor-->Element
2. 14 gauge for Line in-->Element Switch-->Contactor Coil
3. 14 gauge for Line in-->Pump Switch-->Pump Outlet
4. ? gauge for Line in-->PID Switch-->PID #10
5. ? gauge for Line in -->PID # 1 & 14
6. ? gauge for PID #13--> selector switch and alarm
If I am correct then what smaller gauge should be appropriate for 4-6 ? You had asked this same question in your post#3 and P-J said you could use smaller gauge in his post#4. however I could not find where anyone else has made this clear. I know you used solid wire so smaller gauge would have been much easier for you. I just could not tell from the pictures what you used.
It's been awhile and I don't have access to my rig right now. There should be only 2 connections to the e-stop, a ground and a hot that is fused and resistored before the e-stop connection. They should be wired in the normally open position. When you push the e-stop and close the loop, it sends a small electric current through the ground wire which trips your gfci and de-energizes the controller. Hope this helps.Great thread and write up! I am venturing into e-brewing, can't wait.
I am a noob when it comes to electrical, and need a quick bit of help.
1. For the e-stop (purchased from Auber), there are 4 terminals. What terminal should I wire the hot, and which should I wire the ground? I currently have the hot on terminal 3 (can obviously be moved).
Also, looking at the wiring diagram an page one, I just don't see how the e-stop works. It looks to me like everything is wired around it. If anyone is bored and cares to educate me, that would be great!
Thanks again to all, especially P-J and jrb for taking the time to help the rest of us!
jammin said:Firing up the kit for a little Sous Vide action. Doing pork chops and Granny Smith apples. Ill sear them on the hibachi later tonight.
Just wanted to give this thread a little bump. I do 2.5g batches and this system looks perfect for me.
Thanks to jrb03 for the nice build and thanks to the other contributors. I am sourcing parts for a similar build and wanted to share this link for the kettle. That tall skinny profile is not easy to find in a smaller stockpot. The ebay link posted earlier in this thread seems to be old so here is an Amazon link.
CONCORD 26 QT Stainless Steel Stock Pot w/ Basket
Pot 11.5" Wide x 16" Height. Basket 10.5" Wide x 14" Height
As the Aussie's would say "that's a grouse kettle!"
Thanks for that link meshbackhats.
That does look closer to jrb's kettle. Anyone have these kettles that can do the magnet test for induction cookers?
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