1 Step Vs 2 Step Batch Sparge

[adrian078]

I've just moved from extract to partial mash. I have a 6.6 gallon (25L) cooler mash tun and a 8 gallon (30L) boil pot.

In the last recipe I brewed, I used 5.5lbs (2.5kg) of grain - which was 55% of total grain/DME. Beersmith told me to add 7L (1.8 gallons) of strike water for the mash.

For the sparge, beersmith told me to do it in two steps. First add 9.5L (2.5 gallons) then drain, then add an additional 14.5L (3.8 gallons) of sparge water. This is all fine and I hit my pre-boil volume.

To save time, is there any reason I can't just do a 1 step sparge with as much water that will fit in the mash tun and then top up the kettle to get the pre-boil volume? How much water should I use?

I realise I'll lose a few points of efficiency but I'm happy to do that and save another 15-20 mins of time. Any ideas how much efficiency I'll lose?

 

[GoodDogShelby]

I just add the two sparse volumes together and sparse in one step. I recirculate during the mash and sparse. I can't see that it's had any impact on efficiency.

 

[catdaddy66]

I use a single sparge routinely and my efficiency rarely suffers much. With your volumes about half of mine, I wouldn't see any problems with going to a single step.


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[wort_bear]

Ditto on single sparge, just a couple points, although I usually do a double because I'm pushing the limits of my equipment.

The total volume of my sparge water seems to make a substantial difference in efficiency - since I switched to a full sized brew kettle and could use more water(from 5 gal up to 8), my efficiency went up 10-15%.

If you are just topping off a little water I don't think it would make much difference.

 

[thefost]

If you want to calculate your efficiency based on 1 or multi step batch sparges, check out this calculator.
http://seanterrill.com/2013/10/05/batch-sparging-calculator/
It pretty much convinced me that 2 steps were not worth the extra effort, I only do 1.

 

[adrian078]

Thanks for the replies. Ok it's decided, I'll go one step sparge.

Adding the two water volumes of water is out since I can't fit it.

So question is how much water to use? Seems that since it is a partial mash efficiency won't suffer too much with less sparge water (half of what AG would?).

So I'm thinking I should sparge with a bit over half the volume of strike water. Less sparge water means I can saving time heating the remaining water while waiting (since I don't have a dedicated HLT - I use my brew pot).

Any thoughts as to the volume of sparge water I should use?

 

[Yooper]

Thanks for the replies. Ok it's decided, I'll go one step sparge.

Adding the two water volumes of water is out since I can't fit it.

So question is how much water to use? Seems that since it is a partial mash efficiency won't suffer too much with less sparge water (half of what AG would?).

So I'm thinking I should sparge with a bit over half the volume of strike water. Less sparge water means I can saving time heating the remaining water while waiting (since I don't have a dedicated HLT - I use my brew pot).

Any thoughts as to the volume of sparge water I should use?

If you can't fit it in one round, then go ahead and do two rounds. It'd be silly to undersparge when so much of your recipe is grain. It'd be like just throwing out a third of the grainbill if you don't want to adequately sparge.

How big is your mash tun? That sounds like the limiting factor, but maybe sparging by dunking in a second pot or something might be an easy fix.

 

[adrian078]

How big is your mash tun? That sounds like the limiting factor, but maybe sparging by dunking in a second pot or something might be an easy fix.

It's 25L (6.6gal).

Ok then I should basically sparge with as much water that will fit in the tun and then top up?

 

[Yooper]

It's 25L (6.6gal).

Ok then I should basically sparge with as much water that will fit in the tun and then top up?

Well, yes, in general. And take the efficiency hit. Or do two rounds of batch sparging. Most people who do two rounds of batch sparging do that because they can't fit all of the sparge water in the mash tun at the same time, so you wouldn't be alone in doing that!

 

[adrian078]

Well, yes, in general. And take the efficiency hit. Or do two rounds of batch sparging. Most people who do two rounds of batch sparging do that because they can't fit all of the sparge water in the mash tun at the same time, so you wouldn't be alone in doing that!

Ok got it. Should I drain the wort from the mash first before adding sparge water? Then I could fit a little more in. Is this standard practice?

 

[brewbama]

Ok got it. Should I drain the wort from the mash first before adding sparge water? Then I could fit a little more in. Is this standard practice?

I mash for 60 min, vorlauf, drain first runnings, sparge, vorlauf, and drain seconds runnings.


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[catdaddy66]

Ok got it. Should I drain the wort from the mash first before adding sparge water? Then I could fit a little more in. Is this standard practice?

Yes, drain the mash, then sparge. It's called '1st runnings', the sparge water is '2nd runnings' and so on.

Basically the sparge rinses the grains of remaining sugars.


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[thefost]

Ok got it. Should I drain the wort from the mash first before adding sparge water? Then I could fit a little more in. Is this standard practice?

Very much yes. Thats the essence of batch sparging, trying to get out as much sugar as we can from the grain by doing multiple water additions.

Since you seem to want to fill your mash tun to the top, what you could do is just put as much water as you can in your mash tun, then when conversion is finished drain it all. If you can measure how much wort came out, then it is easy to figure out how much more water to add by subtracting the collected wort from your final volume. You always end up with the correct final amount of wort that way.

You were worried about heating the sparge water, but fyi, tests have proven that you absolutely do not need to heat it in order to extract the sugars. Adding room temp water will work exactly the same. Of course, then it will take longer to heat the boil kettle, but you'll get the same results either way.

 

[adrian078]

Very much yes. Thats the essence of batch sparging, trying to get out as much sugar as we can from the grain by doing multiple water additions.

Since you seem to want to fill your mash tun to the top, what you could do is just put as much water as you can in your mash tun, then when conversion is finished drain it all. If you can measure how much wort came out, then it is easy to figure out how much more water to add by subtracting the collected wort from your final volume. You always end up with the correct final amount of wort that way.

So are you saying that the ratio of water to grain doesn't matter so much? I thought that was quite important? But I guess BIAB blows that?

You were worried about heating the sparge water, but fyi, tests have proven that you absolutely do not need to heat it in order to extract the sugars. Adding room temp water will work exactly the same. Of course, then it will take longer to heat the boil kettle, but you'll get the same results either way.

I'm not so much worried about heating it, just wasting time. So I mean, it's time saving to get as much water/wort heating and close to boil before the mash/sparge is finished. i.e. so I don't need to then wait for water to boil after finishing the sparge - which can take 10-15 minutes.

Not a big deal but just trying to get an efficient process

 

[wilserbrewer]

You can also simply sparge a few quarts over the grain bed if you realize you you are short of preboil volume.

If your MT is not large enough, or your short preboil volume for any reason, you can gently pour trickle a small sparge over the grain to get the needed balance. Even cold water will work.


Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/

 

[thefost]

So are you saying that the ratio of water to grain doesn't matter so much? I thought that was quite important? But I guess BIAB blows that?

Nope, not particularly important. Like you said, there are plenty of people doing BIAB and no sparge techniques. The only downside is slightly lower efficiency, which you can calculate with that calculator I posted earlier. But that's the only downside really.

 

[Yooper]

Nope, not particularly important. Like you said, there are plenty of people doing BIAB and no sparge techniques. The only downside is slightly lower efficiency, which you can calculate with that calculator I posted earlier. But that's the only downside really.

The thing that matters is mash pH. You can definitely go up to 2 quarts per pound, and probably a lot more, in the mash but you want to make sure that your mash pH is in the correct area. Without taking mash pH measurements, it's a guess, so it's probably wise to stay under or at 2 quarts per pound in the mash if you don't know what the mash pH is.

 

[thefost]

The thing that matters is mash pH. You can definitely go up to 2 quarts per pound, and probably a lot more, in the mash but you want to make sure that your mash pH is in the correct area. Without taking mash pH measurements, it's a guess, so it's probably wise to stay under or at 2 quarts per pound in the mash if you don't know what the mash pH is.

Good point. I use phosphoric acid or lactic acid so I can adjust as needed. If you are not adjusting, then you would need to pay more attention to water quantities.

 

[LandoLincoln]

I've just moved from extract to partial mash. I have a 6.6 gallon (25L) cooler mash tun and a 8 gallon (30L) boil pot.

In the last recipe I brewed, I used 5.5lbs (2.5kg) of grain - which was 55% of total grain/DME. Beersmith told me to add 7L (1.8 gallons) of strike water for the mash.

For the sparge, beersmith told me to do it in two steps. First add 9.5L (2.5 gallons) then drain, then add an additional 14.5L (3.8 gallons) of sparge water. This is all fine and I hit my pre-boil volume.

To save time, is there any reason I can't just do a 1 step sparge with as much water that will fit in the mash tun and then top up the kettle to get the pre-boil volume? How much water should I use?

I realise I'll lose a few points of efficiency but I'm happy to do that and save another 15-20 mins of time. Any ideas how much efficiency I'll lose?

I usually gain 3% efficiency when I double batch sparge vs. single batch sparge.

 

[adrian078]

Thanks guys. Things are much clear to me now.

I'll start experimenting. Can't wait for next brew day!

 

[msa8967]

Should one be carefull when trying to do a single sparge stage about the gravity of the wort falling below 1.010? I have read that if this happens you might be extracting tannins from over sparging.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Should one be carefull when trying to do a single sparge stage about the gravity of the wort falling below 1.010? I have read that if this happens you might be extracting tannins from over sparging.

Typically this concern is applicable to fly sparging. While unlikely batch sparging, I guess it might be possible when doing an extremely light brew, but generally not a concern AFAIK.

I have heard of some brewers using a no sparge technique for lighter session beers, as the lighter the brew, the gains from a sparge diminish...ymmv.

cheers!