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It is og and yeast starter/health dependant. I think it is important to consider that English brewing traditionally allows for a higher fg and more yeast byproducts such as esters and diacetyl. Fine for an English ipa, but had no place in a west coast style aiipa.

How's your ceiling looking?:banghead:

I started filtering not too long ago. I noticed a drop in hop aroma, flavor, and bitterness. The same happens with gelatin. I think the problem isn't the fining, but the loss of the yeast. Just compensate with more hops.

Yeah, 30 psi gets bubbles in 12 hrs and a drinkable beer in 36. The head retention will be crap and it won't have that smooth carbonation that comes with some time. The longer (and colder) it has to carbonate the better

Small batch= fast temp swings. How's your temp control?

Fast fly sparging may cause channeling (as mentioned). It also may cause the sugars to mix with the sparge water. Fly sparging takes advantage of the difference in densities of the wort and water. The more the two mix (fast sparge) the lower your efficiency. A slow sparge allows the less dense...

I did a 1.068 ipa in ten with filter. You'll have no prob at that sg. It will be a bit green. Just describe it as super fresh, brew pub style :-)

Lol, Per five gallons...auto correct

One campden pretty give gallons and you're good to brew.

One or two bottles it is dirty bottles. All of then means something upstream that contacts all the beer. If it doesn't happen to every batch then it isn't infected equipment, but poor cleaning/sanitation. I visually inspect each bottle and still got an occasional slow gusher until I began...

I understood it as the wire was pulled out of the probe. If the wire was pulled out of the controller then it is an easy fix

Quick search shows them at $20-$30 for ptc type. That's what I paid for my Johnson! I'm going to be more careful with mine from now on.

Figure out what type of probe it is and then get a replacement on eBay or Amazon. The info should be on the specifications page of your manual

barley wine will do best kept out of the pipeline. Brew something else and let that puppy age!

There are a lot of beliefs/methods here. I like to dry hop in my keg after fining/filter. Double dry hop, time depends on temp. I now do three days@70 then fine, crash (not too fast). Filter after three days crash. Carbonate. Keg hop four days before consumption. I've left dry hops in at serving...

Typical lab procedure is to dilute by a known amount and measure. Accuracy is important because each measurement introduces human error and the error of your equipment. You will need to step feed though. Listen to Brew strong high gravity brewing (3 episodes) And can you brew it/ Jamil show...

I think a lot of pale ales are over hopped these days. They are good beer, just too hoppy for the style. A session ipa should still be a ipa. Mine are as unbalanced as can be towards the hoppy because that's what I like. There may be overlap, but not in my brewery :-)

A heating pad taped to the side of my fermenter does the job well. Usually on low. I put two on my 15 gal They need to not have an auto off feature

If ambient ranges between 65 and 70 you will need both. Most ale yeasts do well at low to mid 60 then ramped to 70 at end to promote final attenuation and clean up. Stc-1000 is only $18 plus a few $ for wiring. Works great for me

You will use a lot more Co2 though