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Orfy has a nice mild posted here, both AG and extract versions. You could probably scale it down to 2.5 Gal.

I was just wondering if there was some specific correlation between those two grains. But I guess not really. Thanks for the replies everyone - I appreciate it.

I've noticed most of the dry stout recipes in the recipe archive call for nearly twice the amount of flaked barley to roasted barley. Is there a reason for this or is just brewer preference?

First time I ever primed with honey. Just wanted to try it. You're though. No honey flavor but it carbonated nicely.

I've used honey malt twice recently. The first was in an amber ale; used half a pound of honey malt plus I added a pound of raw honey at flame out. The beer had a sweet finish but not overpowering. The other was in a honey porter. I used a pound of honey malt and primed the keg with 4.5 oz of...

Thanks for responding everyone. BradleyBrew: I smacked the pouch about four hours prior to pitching but it never did swell. The two small bags inside were broken though. RoundKid: My OG was 1.044. And the same when I checked it two days later to confirm whether fermentation had started.

before pitching? I pitched one pouch of Wyeast London Ale yeast into a porter. The temp of the wort was 68 f, well aerated, with yeast nutrient (no starter, I don't have a stir plate). I smacked the packet about four hours before pitching but I noticed the pouch never swelled. After 48 hours...

Good idea, Sheldonsteen. This batch is going into the keg. How do I figure out the correct amount of honey to use? I'm using BrewPal but it doesn't have a calculation for using honey as priming sugar. Thanks again for the response everyone.

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the input.

I'm trying to come up with a honey porter. Since real honey will mostly ferment out I'm going to use honey malt but I'm not sure how much to use so it is not overpowering. Any comments would be welcome. Batch size: 5 1/2 Gal. Fermentables: 3.3 lb. light LME 2.0 lb. light DME 1.0 lb...

Great thread! I'm learning a lot and enjoying the read. Many thanks to BxBrewer and all who contributed.

Thank you, Pappers.

Has anyone used the Rubbermade 10 gal water cooler mash tun with false bottom from Midwest Supplies? Do you like it? How was their service?

DocScott, Yooper, thanks for the timely reply. I did some searching AFTER I hit the go button and found this has been discussed before. I don't have an MLT as I'm brewing with extract. That's why I wasn't sure how one could raise the temp in a plastic cooler. Thanks again.

I was cruising recipes on BYO and saw one for a Saison. It said to "dough-in at 149F and rest for 90 minutes.Then raise temp to 168F." My question is , how do you raise the mash temp in a plastic cooler type MLT? It's not like you can set the thing on a burner. Do you just add more hot water?

Nothing in particular. New to the hobby. Just wondering how and why things work the way they do. I appreciate the reply - thanks.

How, or maybe I should ask why, do yeasts affect the flavor profile of beer?

Try www.homebrewing.org (Adventures In Home Brewing). They have a few extract recipes that are similar to Smithwick.

Thank you for your input everyone.

When using converted coolers as mash tuns, which type seems to work better for you. Round Igloo type coolers with false bottoms seem like they would drain nicely, but the rectangle style seems like it would be easier to stir the mash. Does one have any advantage over the other or is it just a...