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I've had starvation issues with one of the pumps, and it always makes the brew day a giant pain in the ass. Especially when you're dealing with boiling wort. Was going to bite the bullet and get a self priming pump so I won't have to deal with air bubbles anymore. They don't pump as quickly...

Good to know. All I'd need is the coils, lid, and jacket. I don't really have any use for their controller.

Glad to see they implemented something to fix the power issue. I had spoken to the developer about it a few years ago and they had mentioned it was in the works. I have the same system as designed on the electric brewery. There are a couple things I'm going to change about it (I have issues...

I haven't used the BCS in a few years as it's in storage at the moment with all of my car and electric brewery stuff. The BCS works, it's just primarily made for automating brewing controls, not fermentation. So, it's not that flexible for what I'd like it to do. I shouldn't need a UPS for it...

Still in the planning stages for now. After the first version, I want something that doesn't require disconnects to empty the conical, is 100% air tight, and preferably doesn't have the glycol chiller directly touching the wort. Looking in to jacketed 50L stainless conicals. If those don't work...

Just gave you access. Looks like google doesn't want to let me share it with the world. Here's another link that will work: http://www.calstartups.com/PlasticConical.zip

Hey all. OP here. I'm amazed this thread is still going. Someone had PM'd me a while ago looking for the original images from the website, and I just found what I think is most of them on my old laptop. Here's a zip of them: http://www.calstartups.com/PlasticConical.zip Good news though...

I believe I got most everything for the racking arms from here: http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/ Web page may come back in a different iteration at some point, but with everything going on in my life at the moment, I have to drop some stuff.

Hey Guys, Had no idea this thread was still going on. Yeah, the domain is shut down. I'm in the middle of moving from Washington to the Bay Area and with real estate prices, there's no space for the fermenters. I can try to answer the questions you guys have though. This is where I got the...

Honestly, I gave up trying to make it perfectly sealed. The lid hasn't been a problem on mine and I've done at least a dozen batches through it.

add insulation to the conical. It makes a gigantic difference. Mine went from having the A/C on 30min out of the hour to ~10 min out of the hour just by adding insulation to the conicals.

They're definitely bug tight. Not sure if the gamma seal lids would fit. Haven't tried to fit them myself.

Seal everything up below the lid. There's a rather large lip on there that will trap god knows what if you don't seal it up entirely. The actual lid itself isn't airtight either. I've been thinking about working on another lid design entirely, but haven't figured out something workable yet.

I bought the regular neoprene. Haven't had any issues with it. If I remember correctly, I bought double sided carpet tape to hold the neoprene on to the conicals. Seems to work pretty well.

That is quite the cart you've built there. I think I spent 3 hours on mine total, and more than half of that was finishing the wood top.

The 12V power supply needs to stay at 12V as it runs the ball valves, which need 9-12V. It doesn't supply any power to the BCS. You can set the BCS to either use DHCP and pull an IP from your router, or to set a static IP. I'd probably set a static IP as you then know what IP to use for the...

The BCS uses negative as a ground. It's not a true ground, but the driver board appears to be rather sensitive. So, it's easier to use the BCS as ground.

Ground the driver board to the ground on your BCS. Otherwise you may have a floating ground. If I didn't note that on the wiring diagrams, I'll have to change it. The temp probes just use a resistor and it doesn't matter which side is positive or ground since it works both ways. The ball...

20-22 gauge is what I used. The reason for the board is that the BCS can't really drive much in the way of power, even when it comes to relays. The BCS is supposed to put out 5V, but when you hook everything up, it usually puts out ~3.3V. The ball valves usually require 9-12V (depending on...

I used the same chassis I used for my electric brewery. Thankfully it's pretty thick. So, no depth issues there. Yes, soldering the XLR connectors is a major pain in the ass.