Recent content by Lincs

Following on from the Scottish 60 Shilling ( see earlier post ) I brewed a low gravity English Bitter at 1.039 with around 28 IBU's mashed at 66C for 90 minutes, the pitching rate was 0.5g/L of re-hydrated dried yeast. The fermentation at 17-22C was quite rapid with terminal gravity at 1.007...

Used this to ferment a Scottish 60 Shilling beer I brewed a few weeks ago. The brew had an OG of 1.035 with around 18 - 20 IBU's and fermented down to 1.009 after 4 days with the beer being packaged into small Corny kegs plus a few bottles after just seven days. I'd bought a few 11g packs...

I'm just wondering why you're considering adding yeast nutrient a week into fermentation and assume it must be because your beer hasn't completely fermented out. Normally the time to add yeast nutrient is either at the end of boil or to the cold wort when you pitch your yeast. Adding nutrient...

From my own research it seems that the production of Active Dried Yeast is complex and requires expensive equipment / investment which I'm not sure a small company could justify. So yes I really do think that the MJ yeasts are either re-packaged existing strains which may or may not be...

I tried the M79 Burton and was quite disappointed in the results with a long lag time after pitching although it did atttenuate OK in the end. However it took ages to properly clear down and I wasn't impressed at all with the flavour with some yeasty, Belgian phenolic notes which weren't wanted...

I've tried both methods and found no noticeable difference in the finished beer. Both beers had an OG of 1.038 and both were fermented with Y1469 which in each case was cultured up from 2nd generation slants. The first beer had no extra aeration given to the starter other than when stepping up...

A small amount of yeast nutrient may also help particularly when brewing high gravity beers. And don't be afraid to use up to 10 - 15% cane sugar in a Belgian Tripel which will definitely lower the FG.

I've used Windsor a few times before for English Mild Ales but it wouldn't be my first choice for a Dry Stout as it lacks the attenuation and dryness needed for the style. If you prefer to use dry yeast Nottingham would be a far better choice and it clears down a lot faster too.

This fermentation system system was widely used by commercial breweries in the UK until the 1960's but now only used by four. I've used it on several occasions and drop the beer between 28 and 48 hours, depending on the fermentation speed which I judge to be after the rocky head starts to...

I don't think 22C is excessive, the yeast was pitched at 17C after re-hydration and 4 days later peaked at 22C. The data on their website states 18 - 23C as the ideal range so I don't think this was a problem. The beer now has now lost it's banana notes and is crystal clear but tastes very...

I tried the M79 Burton yeast with an English Bitter of 1.042. The fermentation was slightly slow to take off and the temperature reached no higher than 22C, ( actual temperature of fermenting wort ) after 7 days it had dropped to 1.008 and was cooled to 12C before racking to secondary. The...