Recent content by ExMachina

That's reasonable. For all I can tell I might be being irrational, but I got sold early on with the idea that a 2" heating element port would afford more versatility as well as ease of access. I like the idea of keeping all my fittings @ 1.5" but the Still Dragon element guard I am planning on...

Yeah, I wasn't clear. I really only care about the flange diameter as I plan to brew with the kettle slightly elevated on a piece of countertop. I just want the flange not to sick out so that I have the option of storing the kettle flat (ie without the clamp in place)

Exactly. And I have a nice square of laboratory bench counter top that I will put directly under the kettle to elevate it 1" during brewing. And the whole point really is to be able to do both 5 and 10 gallon batches w/o worry of a dry firing the element, and a 2.5" center from the bottom of the...

Ah! Now this is maybe where some confusion exists. The drawings Spike's has been sending me suggest that the measurements are to the bottom of the inside. If they are in fact measuring from the exterior of the kettle bottom then it might not be as high as I'm envisioning. Your pics were super...

That's a good point. I know there's a hidden weld on the side but didn't know about the bottom seam. So how did you drill your hole--it's a big 'un and I don't know that step bits come that large. I've never had much luck getting clean results with so-called "hole saws". EDIT: hmmm, found this...

Man, Brewershardware might be a winner! I had forgotten about them. Thanks!

Right. The 1.25" comes from that fact that a 2" TC has an outside flange diameter of 2.5" That way a 2" TC mounted on a center that is 1.25" above the base should be resting on the table. And once it's in place it's not going to be removed during the brew so I don't care if it's not easily...

Am desperately trying to get my eBIAB train rolling, but I seem to keep hitting bumps. First was electrical, now it's the brew kettle. All I want is a 20 gal kettle with a heating element port (2"TC) that is as low as possible (port center ~1.25" from the base. This will allow more flexibility...

No. I'll look into that as well. They're not as expensive as I would have guessed! I didn't turn anything on, and the lights did a nice job of "turning" themselves off immediately ("pop" "pop" "pop-pop-pop"). I'd estimate it took us ~10 minutes to figure out that something was very wrong and...

Yes! That's what I was hoping to find but never could. I should have learned by now to check brewhardware first! Thank you for sharing this

Cool. Most interest to know what kind of bulkhead fittings are you using through the lid? Ideally, I'd like the lid to support the chiller so it doesn't have to rest on the heating element.

Yup. Not going to half-ass this. Going to rewire the receptacle (and from what I can see I will need to replace the breaker too) Many thanks for pointing out this non-obvious detail of the 3- vs 4-prong plug. Saved me some time/frustration I am sure. :mug:

From what I could find out, the third wire acts as both neutral and ground. https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/33602/why-do-240v-circuits-not-require-neutral So it's safe so long as it all stays connected as it should. But when it fails it may not fail safe. Looks like I should be...

Great reply. Of course I would have a 3-prong receptacle :( Wonder if it's worth having the receptrical upgraded to a 4-prong? We just had a tree slice through (only) our service neutral about a month ago (fun times!!), and I was reading about how a dropped neutral like that could have...

Live in an old, small house and can't fit another double breaker in the box. So what I was originally wanting to do is to simply wire a spa panel inline with the existing dryer receptacle. However, I'm also a cheap bastard and would like to take the spa panel with me when I move. So I'm...