Without RO, what styles will my water best work with?

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hawktrio

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Main question is as per thread heading. Secondary question is with my two stage undersink water filter which cartridges should I be using to remove chlorine and chloramines? Currently I have a 5 micron sediment filter and then a 0.5 micron carbon filter, both US made I believe. They are up for replacement and I was looking to bulk buy replacements to save some coin. Cheers guys and Merry Christmas!

Ward Labs Water Report
pH 7.9
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 185
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.31
Cations / Anions, me/L 2.7 / 2.9
ppm
Sodium, Na 25
Potassium, K 1
Calcium, Ca 24
Magnesium, Mg 4
Total Hardness, CaCO3 77
Nitrate, NO3-N < 0.1 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 4
Chloride, Cl 38
Carbonate, CO3 < 1
Bicarbonate, HCO3 98
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 80
Total Phosphorus, P < 0.01
Total Iron, Fe < 0.01
 
There will be few beers that you cannot do with that water as long as you take care of the alkalinity (use some colored malts or add a bit of lactic or phosphoric acid - not mentioning RO as you are apparently adverse to it).
 
Thanks AJ. I thought it was pretty versatile water and I have been using Bru'n Water to estimate how much phosporic acid (85%) to control alkalinity. Still my brews lack the malt complexity that I am striving for as, versus the best, fresh commerical beers, my brews lack malt flavours that pop and stand out.

RO is definitely in my future but I need to work on SWMBO regarding the cost of that upgrade.
 
Excepting for the need to neutralize alkalinity, that water should not stand in the way of malt complexity. It is a relatively unobtrussive water. Malt complexity is a product of the brewer's art, not the water.
 
Thanks MA. I have been brewing for 2 years now with the thought my water was pretty good. It is great to have this promptly confirmed by the gurus. Given a solid malt forward recipe, what are the keys to achieving this complexity?
 
I see I forgot to answer the other question: the carbon filter will probably take care of the chloramine but a fairly long contact time is required. See https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/campden-tablets-sulfites-brewing-water-361073/ for tips on how to check for chloramine in your water and how to deal with it.

As for getting malt complexity the answer is complex malt. IOW use lots of malt (go for higher gravity beers), do conversions at higher temperatures (less fermentable worts) and experiment with the vast flavor spectrum made available from the large number of higher kilned (darker) malts. Hold back on the hops. Use just enough to keep the malt sweetness from becoming cloying. Use noble hops where suitable or low alpha hops and keep sulfate levels modest to prevent hops bitterness from becoming harsh. There is lots of personal preference involved here and beyond just 'use more malt' you will have to do a lot of experimenting.
 
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