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The_Traveling_Brewer

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I live in New England and it's getting cold. Brewing outside is going to get tricky. Thinking I may have to move inside. I noticed a big difference in my beers when I moved up to a full 5-6 gallon boil and I liked it. I guess I can move back to 2.5-3 gallon boils again but would like to stay a with bigger boils. Anyone have good advice on methods or equipment I can use to keep the best quality possibly during winter brewing months.

Thanks
 
The_Traveling_Brewer said:
I live in New England and it's getting cold. Brewing outside is going to get tricky. Thinking I may have to move inside. I noticed a big difference in my beers when I moved up to a full 5-6 gallon boil and I liked it. I guess I can move back to 2.5-3 gallon boils again but would like to stay a with bigger boils. Anyone have good advice on methods or equipment I can use to keep the best quality possibly during winter brewing months.

Thanks

I did my last AG batch for the season today. It was about -4°C out and I had to deal with low mash temps and a frozen plate chiller. Aside from that things went well, but I'll be moving inside and doing extract for the winter. You can make great beers with partial wort boils if you're careful and smart. I'm lucky that my cooker will get 25l boiling.

Make sure that you adjust your hopping rate, and you might want to be prepared for some diminishment in your foam stand. If you're brewing extract as I assume you are, consider adding the bulk of your extract toward the end of the boil. As always, standard caveats about sanitation and ingredient freshness apply, and are even more important when you've already got an obstacle to overcome.
 
The_Traveling_Brewer said:
I live in New England and it's getting cold. Brewing outside is going to get tricky. Thinking I may have to move inside. I noticed a big difference in my beers when I moved up to a full 5-6 gallon boil and I liked it. I guess I can move back to 2.5-3 gallon boils again but would like to stay a with bigger boils. Anyone have good advice on methods or equipment I can use to keep the best quality possibly during winter brewing months.

Thanks

Where in New England?
 
Nr Pittsburgh PA here, I brew in the garage all year round, not as much fun during winter thats for sure.
 
I do my boil in the garage all year long but in the winter i move my mash into the basement and just cover my tun with a blanket
 
I don't add any extra insulation until lit gets to be close to 0f then I'll add a blanket
 
So how does everyone chill their wort at the end of the boil during winter? I cannot run my wort chiller off of my outside faucets so I have been filling large tubs with water days before I brew to have them 1/2 filled with ice. I then add some cold water and my brew kettle. Anyone have a better method of chilling?
 
I set a tub outside and fill it with tap water 10 to 20 minutes before the end of the boil. I set the boil kettle in that after I get the ice broken and then shovel in some snow. I might add some more snow after 5 minutes. It doesn't take much more than that when the air temp is at -20.
 
Britinusa said:
Nr Pittsburgh PA here, I brew in the garage all year round, not as much fun during winter thats for sure.

A fellow Pittsburgh brewer! I'm brewing in slippery rock which is north of the burgh!
 
msa8967 said:
So how does everyone chill their wort at the end of the boil during winter? I cannot run my wort chiller off of my outside faucets so I have been filling large tubs with water days before I brew to have them 1/2 filled with ice. I then add some cold water and my brew kettle. Anyone have a better method of chilling?

Thats what i do as well... Takes a little while but works
 
In Ohio and also use my outside hoses for water. Thinking I might build a recirculating cooler and buy those 5 gallon jugs from home Depot for water. Sucks cuz the brew shop has a black Friday sale tomorrow for any grain for .99 a pound and I'd love to try a 10 gallon batch but to frozen outside to run the hoses.
 
If your brewing outside and it is so cold you can't use the hose for your chiller, I would suggest lidding the kettle, going inside the warm house and RDWHAHB.
Revisit the kettle in 6 to 10 hours and you should be at pitching temps.
 
I'm planning on muscling through outdoor brewing this winter.

I did it last year and it was painful at times, but I made it, even after Nemo dumped 3 feet of snow all the way around my house. The biggest lesson I learned was about making sure I kept my water hose disconnected and in my warm basement until I needed it. Then I could just hook it up and clean out the mash tun, put it back, then get it back out when it's time to chill.

So how does everyone chill their wort at the end of the boil during winter? I cannot run my wort chiller off of my outside faucets so I have been filling large tubs with water days before I brew to have them 1/2 filled with ice. I then add some cold water and my brew kettle. Anyone have a better method of chilling?

See above.
 
I may be an oddball because brewing in the winter is one of my favorite things, especially if it's snowy. It's even cooler if you get a "snow day" where you're off of work. Some recommendations (if you choose to brew outside):

- Your propane tank is going to get cold. Find a way to keep it warm or you'll get that "empty tank" output before it really is. It's always good to have an extra tank or two anyway, but expect to change it out sooner than normal.

- Don't brew near any eaves, trees, or anything overhanging. There's a lot of snow build-up and icicles that could melt off because of all the steam you generate. You might end up getting barraged by falling ice and snow.

- Expect to get more wet than usual. Dress accordingly.

- Mash at a higher temperature, and don't open your tun (unless you direct-fire mash). It will cool very fast in cooler temps.

- If you use a water supply outside your house, check the water tap well before you start brewing. It could have some frozen water still inside. Finding out that you can't get your water running on brew day is a bad thing.

- Watch out for birds. I don't know what it is about brewing in the winter...maybe it's the steam, but birds always seem to like to come hang out for the show. They might poop on something...hasn't happened yet (knock on wood) but they are sneaky...

- Don't leave anything wet out for too long. If you don't want ice inside/on/around it, don't leave it outside. This includes pumps, hoses, and whatever else you can think of. Don't forget that if you run sanitizer through your lines with a pump, sometimes it gets built up in there. You don't want to crack a pump head.

- Get some waterproof warm gloves. It sucks having to mess with water when it's cold out. Especially when us homebrewers tend to buy everything stainless steel...
 
I plan to brew outside through the Adirondack Mountain winter. In fact it was below zero when I started yesterday but was up in the teens when I started the boil. We'll see how cold I'll go…
 
Do you electric brew? What can you tell me about it? Equipment and boil sizes?

I have been basement brewing for years using two 120v 20 amp GFI circuits powering two 2000w elements, with no controller, just switches to power the elements on and off. By today's standards, I will admit it is very ghetto. When I started E-brewing, there was not much info available, so you just "kinda figured it out". I have the skills and means to build a more sophisticated system, but I guess we are creatures of habit, and the simple ghetto system works well, so I guess if it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it.

I brew either BIAB, or batch sparge using a cooler MLT with a simple stainless braid / no bulkhead valve for lautering.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/ten-minute-cooler-mash-tun-conversion-125108/
My cooler or kettle HLT when batching, doesn't even have a bulkhead drain, I just prefer to transfer sparge water with a gallon pitcher, easier and faster IME. My kettles don't have valves, I just siphon the wort or fermented beer with a racking cane and tubing...it works fine, I keep it very simple.

For ventilation, I just stick an old fan in the basement window that is behind my kettle. It works fine, I do also run the fan for 20-30 minutes after flame out to air out the basement, as it falls behind a little bit during the boil, not a big deal.

Typically I brew 1/4 keg, 7.75 gallon batches, and 4000w heats and boils quickly. On occasion I brew larger batches, and have done several 1/2 keg 15.5 gallon batches, which is a stretch, but it works with a little patience. The sweet spot for wattage, seems to be about 3000w (2 elements @ 1500) for 5 gallon batches, and 4000w (2 elements @ 2000w) for 10 gallon batches. Use a large ketttle, double batch size is preferred since you can't simply dial down the boil without a controller...not a deal breaker IME...elements are only 10 bucks, find the power that suits your needs and run it. Of course, a 240v, 5500w element on a spa panel GFI with controller is superior, but not required, only my opinion and what works for me.

Just my opinion, but even a simple electric indoor system beats propane outside, brewing in comfort where you are going to ferment is so much easier, again, only my opinion.

IME, even a single 2000w element will handle 3-4 gallon batches, and squeek by for 5 gallon batches with an insulated 8-10 gallon kettle.

Check out the electric brewing section, again only my opinion, but don't get overwhelmed thinking you NEED to spend thousands of dollars. You can install 120v elements, or build a heat stick for 30-50 bucks each.

My ghetto basement brewery

note the "pump" on the bottom shelf for moving sparge water, and furniture dolly for moving kegs.



Installed / relocated 2, 20 amp gfci outlets with switches closer to the brew stand


My kettle addiction, actually one more 20 gallon stainless is AWOL at my hunt club. Smallest hanging is a B/C 11 gal., largest is 24 gallon SS.

 
wilserbrewer said:
I have been basement brewing for years using two 120v 20 amp GFI circuits powering two 2000w elements, with no controller, just switches to power the elements on and off. By today's standards, I will admit it is very ghetto. When I started E-brewing, there was not much info available, so you just "kinda figured it out". I have the skills and means to build a more sophisticated system, but I guess we are creatures of habit, and the simple ghetto system works well, so I guess if it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it. I brew either BIAB, or batch sparge using a cooler MLT with a simple stainless braid / no bulkhead valve for lautering. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/ten-minute-cooler-mash-tun-conversion-125108/ My cooler or kettle HLT when batching, doesn't even have a bulkhead drain, I just prefer to transfer sparge water with a gallon pitcher, easier and faster IME. My kettles don't have valves, I just siphon the wort or fermented beer with a racking cane and tubing...it works fine, I keep it very simple. For ventilation, I just stick an old fan in the basement window that is behind my kettle. It works fine, I do also run the fan for 20-30 minutes after flame out to air out the basement, as it falls behind a little bit during the boil, not a big deal. Typically I brew 1/4 keg, 7.75 gallon batches, and 4000w heats and boils quickly. On occasion I brew larger batches, and have done several 1/2 keg 15.5 gallon batches, which is a stretch, but it works with a little patience. The sweet spot for wattage, seems to be about 3000w (2 elements @ 1500) for 5 gallon batches, and 4000w (2 elements @ 2000w) for 10 gallon batches. Use a large ketttle, double batch size is preferred since you can't simply dial down the boil without a controller...not a deal breaker IME...elements are only 10 bucks, find the power that suits your needs and run it. Of course, a 240v, 5500w element on a spa panel GFI with controller is superior, but not required, only my opinion and what works for me. Just my opinion, but even a simple electric indoor system beats propane outside, brewing in comfort where you are going to ferment is so much easier, again, only my opinion. IME, even a single 2000w element will handle 3-4 gallon batches, and squeek by for 5 gallon batches with an insulated 8-10 gallon kettle. Check out the electric brewing section, again only my opinion, but don't get overwhelmed thinking you NEED to spend thousands of dollars. You can install 120v elements, or build a heat stick for 30-50 bucks each. My ghetto basement brewery note the "pump" on the bottom shelf for moving sparge water, and furniture dolly for moving kegs. http://s358.photobucket.com/user/mbwilser/media/HPIM5462.jpg.html Installed / relocated 2, 20 amp gfci outlets with switches closer to the brew stand http://s358.photobucket.com/user/mbwilser/media/photo5_zpse607f889.jpg.html My kettle addiction, actually one more 20 gallon stainless is AWOL at my hunt club. Smallest hanging is a B/C 11 gal., largest is 24 gallon SS. http://s358.photobucket.com/user/mbwilser/media/kettles_zps693b4608.jpg.html

Might be ghetto but i enjoy the heck out of it! Awesome man cave approach!
 
I like your setup! Especially the wall of pots. It looks like you could have multiple batches running at the same time if you had enough burners. I can see the wheel thing at the bottom. Those are great for moving full pots around. Do you get a full rolling boil with those burners?
 
I'm in Wisconsin and have no trouble brewing in the freezing cold. Wear snowpants, warm boots and layers of sweatshirt/coat and bring a Thermos of coffee.

I mash in the kitchen and leave the mash tun inside until it's time to begin the sparge. When it's time to chill, I fill the HLT with ice and water and circulate it through the IC using the March pump. Later in the winter when there's lots of snow, I use that to chill the water that I run through the IC, (only when I use snow, I don't use the HLT - I use a bucket with a valve on the bottom, and a BIAB bag to filter out the twigs, pine needles, rabbit poops, etc.)

Other tips - bring the March pump inside when not in use or the head will freeze up. Small things that can freeze, like quick releases, I put those in a plastic bag and put the bag in the MLT with the hot spent grain to keep them warm. Salt any spills on the garage floor where you're working. Spills will freeze and be slippery.

That's pretty much it. Jsut about everything else in the process stays the same, except cleanup. I have to bring the kettle and MLT inside and wash them in the laundry sink instead of using the garden hose, but that's no biggie. Cheers!
 
I tried brewing outside last weekend. I'm in Montreal. It was quite cold and I learned a valuable lesson; building codes change for a reason. Ours is an older house and the tap outside is original. Back in the mid 80s when the house was built, you did not have to have a frost free tap and a shutoff valve inside. Now I know why you do need them. $500 emergency plumber call and $2k repairs for the basement, starting Dec 30th. Thankfully our insurance covers most of it. And, worst of all, I lost my brown porter. Can't say my wife is keen on the idea of me winter brewing again :) Time to start thinking about doing something electric inside I think.

Fergus

image-3896565829.jpg
 
I live in MN and brew outside year round. I remember one brewday with my uncle that was -15°F. Never had any issues. I take it inside for the chilling though with an immersion chiller and a little snow in the sink.
 
I live in MN and brew outside year round. I remember one brewday with my uncle that was -15°F. Never had any issues. I take it inside for the chilling though with an immersion chiller and a little snow in the sink.


I assume you use propane. Do you ever have issues with it that cold? Like does it blow out easy or anything?
 
The_Traveling_Brewer said:
I assume you use propane. Do you ever have issues with it that cold? Like does it blow out easy or anything?

Keep two around. If one freezes shut, i just use the other one. (I'm next door in Wisconsin, so it's frickin cold here too.)
 
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