Will Pellet Hops Clog My Pump or Valves

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Mike123

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I want to throw pellet hops directly into my boil pot for maximum hop utilization. At the end of the boil, before I route the wort to my plate chiller I would start my pump and recirculate from my boil pot (dip tube at the pot bottom center), through the pump and a couple of valves, and back to the boil pot via a return connector in the top rim of my boil pot. During this recirculation I would catch hop material at the output of the return connector using a strainer (probably a 300 micron basket). I would let this run until most of the hop material is collected.

My system uses 3/8" ID silicone tubing, so that is the smallest diameter at any point. I'm using a 1/25th horsepower steelhead pump.

Will this clog my pump and/or valves?

I know there are other ways to do this, like whirlpooling, etc., but I want specifically to do it this way if possible. If anyone has done this successfully I would like to benefit from your experience, please let me know.

Thanks and Cheers!
 
My system uses 3/8" ID silicone tubing, so that is the smallest diameter at any point.
Are you not using 3/8" hose barbs? Those have 1/4" inner diameter.

For what it's worth, I never had clogging when I was recirculating with the same pump and same size tubing (and 3/8" barbs).
 
Are you not using 3/8" hose barbs? Those have 1/4" inner diameter.

For what it's worth, I never had clogging when I was recirculating with the same pump and same size tubing (and 3/8" barbs).
Hi RPh_Guy - yes I use hose barbs with 3/8" ID.

Can you approximate the maximum amount of hops (ounces) you have used at one time in the pot? I'm just wondering if I wanted to do a very large "hop stand", lets say adding 5 ounces of pellet hops, will that clog my system?
 
I hadn't used more than maybe 2-3 ounces, so someone else will have to answer your question.

Using 1/2" tubing with 5/8" barbs has made a dramatic difference increasing flow, even with the same pump.
 
I hadn't used more than maybe 2-3 ounces, so someone else will have to answer your question.

Using 1/2" tubing with 5/8" barbs has made a dramatic difference increasing flow, even with the same pump.
I double checked, and indeed my system is 3/8" ID throughout, but you said earlier you never had clogging issues at that ID, so I'll press on. I have quick-disconnects on all of my hoses, and changing to a larger barb/hose size would be expensive, unless absolutely necessary. I have very good flow rate (I would have to measure to get a performance number). Why did you go to larger barbs/hose?
Thanks, and Cheers!
 
I double checked, and indeed my system is 3/8" ID
3/8" (OD) hose barbs have a 1/4" inner diameter.
To maintain a 3/8" inner diameter, you would need to be using 1/2" hose barbs.

Why did you go to larger barbs/hose?
I wanted to increase flow rate. It helps chill wort faster when circulating through a counterflow chiller or whirlpooling with an immersion chiller. I'm also now recirculating my mash and a high flow rate improves heating time and reduces risk of scorching (RIMS). There is also a lower risk of clogging and faster transfers.

3/8" to 1/2" may not sound like much but the cross sectional area increases by 78%, which definitely increases flow rate by a lot.
 
3/8" (OD) hose barbs have a 1/4" inner diameter.
To maintain a 3/8" inner diameter, you would need to be using 1/2" hose barbs.


I wanted to increase flow rate. It helps chill wort faster when circulating through a counterflow chiller or whirlpooling with an immersion chiller. I'm also now recirculating my mash and a high flow rate improves heating time and reduces risk of scorching (RIMS). There is also a lower risk of clogging and faster transfers.

3/8" to 1/2" may not sound like much but the cross sectional area increases by 78%, which definitely increases flow rate by a lot.
OK my barbs must be 1/2" (OD) because the ID is 3/8".

So may I ask how your return to the mash is set up? A "sparge arm" over the top of the mash (or something else)? And how are you heating the wort during recirculation?
 
For the return I'm using a whirlpool return and a spiral nozzle.

For heating in using a RIMS (Recirculating Infusion Mash System) which is where the wort runs across a heating element in the recirculation loop which is controlled electronically.

Photos here of my setup and a bunch of others
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...to-mash-tun-recirc.668800/page-2#post-8759158

I'm in the process of choosing a false bottom because the bazooka tube isn't cutting it for recirculation.
 
I've had absolutely terrible luck with clogging of the plumbing with hops in generally any amount in my boil kettle. I've been using 1/2" camlock fittings, valves, and tubing. For systems with plate chillers I highly recommend buying a nice stainless hop spider. I add my hop additions to it and stir inside it thoroughly and haven't had any problems.

Most of the trub/hop screen filters available on the market have mixed results and obviously its hard to correct a problem when its in a pool of boiling hot wort. Can't recommend the hop spider enough.
 

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