james138
Well-Known Member
Whenever I pour a home brew I notice a lot of head on my beer. I've never noticed this with commercial beers, so why is this?
Why does my beer look like with when I pour?
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SilverZero
Well-Known Member
Mine does that too lately. I have been forced to let my bottles carb in the garage and the temps have been pushing 90F all summer, I think that's the primary cause. You could have a bit of extra priming sugar, but I'd say it's that. My brews were much better pouring when they could stay around 70F through the Winter and Spring.
Try chilling them for a week or more, I've heard it helps. I've got a few bottles in the fridge that are taming nicely after doing the same. If it's an emergency, chill the bottle as long as you can and put the glass in the freezer for 15 minutes, then pour very slowly.
Try chilling them for a week or more, I've heard it helps. I've got a few bottles in the fridge that are taming nicely after doing the same. If it's an emergency, chill the bottle as long as you can and put the glass in the freezer for 15 minutes, then pour very slowly.
Too much priming sugar or uneven carbonation would be the two most probable issues.
What size batch, what style, how much sugar did you prime with, what type of sugar did you prime with, etc.
What size batch, what style, how much sugar did you prime with, what type of sugar did you prime with, etc.
MichaelBrock
Well-Known Member
The temperature at which you leave your bottles during carbonation won't change your final carbonation level. The yeast will generate carbon dioxide only until there is no more priming sugar. If you're bottling and the beer is overcarbonated then I think it has to be either too much sugar (too much priming sugar or you bottled before primary fermentation was done) or you have an infection with something able to ferment the sugar your yeast couldn't.
inhousebrew
Well-Known Member
Are you using a priming sugar calculator?
Also, what was your final gravity of the beer? If there is left over fermentable sugar it could lead to over-carbonation.
Also, what was your final gravity of the beer? If there is left over fermentable sugar it could lead to over-carbonation.
OP
OP
james138
Well-Known Member
I just use a kit so everything is pre-measured for me. I've only made two batches and it's done it with both. It doesn't bother my except when I'm pouring a beer for someone else.
most awkwardly titled thread ever?
Most of mine have done that so far with this batch. Like a lot of this hobby, patience is key. Gently pour down the side of the glass, just barely flowing out of the bottle. Take your time and stop if it gets too crazy. If you pay attention and take your time it should minimize those issues, did for me at least. Good luck.
rifraf
Well-Known Member
james138 said:
Those kits typically include a pouch with far more priming sugar than you need...
Yeah I didn't get what the message was intended to be either...it made me look though!
Also along with patience you could use a chilled glass that should help too
It's been way to long since I've bottle conditioned and haven't brewed actively for a while except with friends who've kept/bottled. Iirc... 5 oz. of priming sugar = approx. 3/4 cup. Thus the next go around if you're bottling a full 5 gallons, which of course could be your problem... are you bottling 3-4 gallons or some such and using all the priming sugar they give ya? Anyway when I used to do this I'd generally fill a measuring cup up to 3/4 full mark then take out 2-2.5 tablespoons. I've used less than 1/2 cup for bottling 'softer' brews such as scottish ales. Shouldn't be hard to figure out what you're doing especially if you've got scales. If not go with 5/8ths cup of priming sugar. As others said I'm assuming you're reaching FG before bottling, that'd be your biggest no-no.
ReverseApacheMaster
Well-Known Member
Are you opening those beers warm? If not, how long did they sit in a fridge before opening?
The serving temperature has a big effect on how the beer pours. The cooler the beer the more CO2 it absorbs so the less fierce foam you get from a regular pour. When the beer is warmer the CO2 comes out of suspension in the bottle.It causes a more caustic pour due to the added pressure in the bottle headspace, which gives you too much head.
The serving temperature has a big effect on how the beer pours. The cooler the beer the more CO2 it absorbs so the less fierce foam you get from a regular pour. When the beer is warmer the CO2 comes out of suspension in the bottle.It causes a more caustic pour due to the added pressure in the bottle headspace, which gives you too much head.
jbsayers
Well-Known Member
I am new to the forums and brewing so by no means do I intend on sounding like I am arguing with more experienced brewers. I do hold a BS in molecular/microbiology, though.
The carbonation level in the bottle is also a function of temperature and pressure. The colder the beer, the more CO2 can dissolve into the liquid hence a more carbonated beer. The opposite is also true. Warmer bottle conditioning leads to less CO2 able to dissolve in the beer hence less carbonation. Warmer beer temps will also lead to more dissolved CO2 fizzing out faster and you'll get alot of foam.
Please shar shoot the hell out of this if I am in error. That way I can learn more and gain a better understanding of brewing.
Cheers,
JB
jbsayers, I think Michael was alluding to the carbing process, not the serving process, simply saying the yeast could only eat available sugars not become super-yeast at higher temps. Your points are solid also, colder beer holds it's co2 better etc. I'd say higher carbonation temps when bottle conditioning wouldn't have a tone of effect, but could have some... what I'm not sure it'd be nominal I'm guessing compared to the pic. Over carbing via too much bottling sugar or incomplete fermentation are the suspects there or very warm serving temps which are very possible but fairly doubtful as most people serve beer too cold rather than too warm.
wolfstar
Well-Known Member
is it possible that yeast produce more Co2 or other gasses at higher temps versus alchohol?
jbsayers
Well-Known Member
Agreed. I was replying more to Michael's comment than the root problem of the OP, I guess. In regards to the OP, it seems like too much priming sugar is the primary culprit.
Higher temps will lead to more activity (to a point) but every equation has a limiting factor. In this case it would be the sugars available for those yeasties to eat to produce the CO2 and alcohol.
beerman0001
Well-Known Member
So I am assuming you are using the 5oz sugar that came with the kit. How much beer are you getting from you fermenter to you bottling bucket? Basic rule of thumb is 1oz to 1gal. Does not matter if you are conditioning at a higher temp the yeast can and will only eat the amount of fermentable sugar you added to create c02, too much sugar=overcarbed not enough sugar= undercarbed. After you condition for a minimum of 2 weeks 3 is much better then you need to refrigerate between mid 30s to low 40s for a few days I find it best after a week. Next make sure you are properly washing you glassware and practice how to poor. In the end as long as it taste good who cares.
no, yeast produce CO2 and alcohol at a constant rate. you can look up the formula, but it's something along the lines of "one molecule of sugar = X molecules of CO2 + Y molecules of alcohol" where X & Y are constants.
sidepart
Well-Known Member
If you ask me, seeing this makes me think I'm not getting ENOUGH head 
. Ok ok, head jokes aside I think there's some good advice on here about calculating how much priming sugar you're using.
Has anyone asked how you're pouring your brew though?
. Ok ok, head jokes aside I think there's some good advice on here about calculating how much priming sugar you're using.Has anyone asked how you're pouring your brew though?
From a 2nd story window I suspect!
Perhaps practicing his long pour off a 16' ladder for beerfest?
MMJfan
Well-Known Member
I've had this issue as well.
It hasn't bothered me all that much because the beers still taste amazing.
Question about the priming sugar and how much to add. I've generally been using kits and I always thought it was standard to use 5 oz. of priming sugar mixed in 1 cup of boiling water so that is the ratio I've used for all my beers so far. I also don't want to not use enough priming sugar as to get no carbonation either (I'd rather err on the side of over-carbonation than under-carbonation). Is there some sort of formula to use factoring in gravity readings when figuring the ratio of priming sugar to water or should I just not fret over it and keep doing what I've been doing?
It hasn't bothered me all that much because the beers still taste amazing.
Question about the priming sugar and how much to add. I've generally been using kits and I always thought it was standard to use 5 oz. of priming sugar mixed in 1 cup of boiling water so that is the ratio I've used for all my beers so far. I also don't want to not use enough priming sugar as to get no carbonation either (I'd rather err on the side of over-carbonation than under-carbonation). Is there some sort of formula to use factoring in gravity readings when figuring the ratio of priming sugar to water or should I just not fret over it and keep doing what I've been doing?
The ratio being referred to isn't about priming sugar to water to make the priming solution, it's about priming sugar to beer volume.
Here's a good calculator: http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/
Here's a good calculator: http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/
Wingfan13
Well-Known Member
I just skimmed the thread so sorry if this has already been suggested but how are you adding the priming sugar ? Are you getting a good swirl when going into the bottling bucket to make sure the priming sugar is well mixed with the beer ?
I didn't see this addressed, so I'll chime in. The amount of CO2 in the BOTTLE is directly related to the amount of sugars available to the yeast. The carbonation level in the BEER is a function of temperature and pressure. If the beer is too warm to absorb all of the CO2 produced by the yeast, it goes out of solution into the headspace of the bottle. Pressure increases, volume of CO2 remains the same. Chilling the bottle before serving lowers the temperature of the beer, allowing it to absorb more CO2 again.
MMJfan
Well-Known Member
I always pour my priming sugar mix in the bottom of the bottling bucket and then drop my auto syphon hose down do the bottom and rack the beer on top of it. That seems to do pretty good at mixing it all together I would think...
Did you get three consecutive days of FG readings?
Also you want to keep your bottles at room temp when they are carbing. A 90°F garage can and will restart fermentation if you have any residual sugars left and you'll get overcarbed beers if you are lucky, bombs if you are not.
Also you want to keep your bottles at room temp when they are carbing. A 90°F garage can and will restart fermentation if you have any residual sugars left and you'll get overcarbed beers if you are lucky, bombs if you are not.
SilverZero
Well-Known Member
Let's define "room temp." Maybe close to fermentation temps? I've been keeping my bottles in the laundry room for as long as possible to carb, mid- to high-70s. Some of them that were in the garage from before the high temps hit stayed out there and got to deal with the heat, but no bombs for me yet. I have always had attenuation in line with what was expected on the high end, so I haven't worried about residuals. Even so, maybe that's what's happening to me with the last couple of foamy batches. Every batch makes me think more about building a fermentation/aging chamber. I think I've used up all my grace with my wife this summer as far as appropriating funds for my brewing projects . . . maybe later in the fall.
lowtones84
Well-Known Member
I'm gonna go with the temperature thing here as well as volume. I know when I first started with kits my beers were overcarbed because I used the whole 5 oz. of priming sugar even though I certainly did not get 5 gallons of liquid into the bottling bucket. Sure, 5 oz. for 4.5 gallons or whatever may not seem like it matters much but I think it does. But the temperature (when opening/pouring) thing is definitely a potential culprit too. I didn't know that co2 dissolved more readily in cold liquid when I first started.
jbsayers
Well-Known Member
I meant in addition to the sugars. That's why I said it is "also" a function of temp and pressure. Good point that inside the capped bottle it is a closed system so the increased headspace pressure forces the CO2 into solution. Like you said, if you don't chill the beer prior to opening, it is no longer a closed system and the CO2 quickly comes out of solution and foaming ensues.
JB
MindenMan
Well-Known Member
I was reading if there was too much head space, the beer would over carbonate, and too little would create too little. I understand that liquid is not compressible and gas is, so will head space really play a factor is carbonation levels?
jbsayers
Well-Known Member
Again, I am new to brewing. From a basic equilibrium argument, though:
In a capped bottle, the CO2 from priming fermentation has only 2 places to go, into the headspace or into the beer. Pressure is created in the capped bottle because the CO2 diffuses from the beer into the headspace. As more and more CO2 builds up in that headspace volume the pressure rises. As pressure in that volume rises more pressure is exerted on the beer and more CO2 will dissolve back into the beer. When the yeasties run out of sugar, CO2 is no longer being made and eventually the rate of CO2 diffusing into the headspace and dissolving into the beer is the same (equilibrium) and carbing is done.
So in theory with all other things being equal, more headspace will lead to requiring more CO2 to build up in the headpspace to reach x amount of pressure exerted on the beer This will lead to less CO2 dissolved in the beer at equilibrium. Less headspace leads to a less amount of CO2 required to exert x amount of pressure exerted on the beer. This will lead to more CO2 dissolved in the beer.
All of this is a moot point if you do not have enough priming fermentables to properly carb your beer. And if you have too much, overcarbing occurs. This is the most important step in properly carbing your bottled beer.
Make sense?
JB
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