Where to attach pulley

[h22lude]

I just bought a pulley but not sure where to attach it. I have cross boards attach to floor joists. I can just hang the pulley on one of those (pictured) but I'm not sure if it will be strong enough. I could use the floor joist, I'm just not sure what the safest way to attach the pulley to it would be. Would an eye bolt through the bottom be strong enough or should I drill through the side and buy a big carabineer?

View attachment 1508005897213.jpg

 

[RM-MN]

How much weight will there be hung from that pulley? I would probably drill a 5/16 hole into the bottom of the floor joist and screw in an 3/8 screw thread eyebolt. Unless you use a winch, that will probably hold all you can pull up by hand.

 

[raysmithtx]

I would put an eye bolt through the joist. The ones that have a bolt and nut on them and not the simple screw in type. That will be plenty strong.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I wouldn't worry about it. They hang boxing heavy bags from floor joists....not the best idea but they do it.

If you really want to be on the safe side you could cut a 2x4 to fit between 2 joists. Around 14 1/2"
Nail that on the flat from the backside of the beam and install an eye bolt with a large washer through the 2x4... Aint goin nowhere nohow....you could even add a teco for good measure...

I definitely wouldn't hang it off the cross bracing...they can loosin up

 

[h22lude]

How much weight will there be hung from that pulley? I would probably drill a 5/16 hole into the bottom of the floor joist and screw in an 3/8 screw thread eyebolt. Unless you use a winch, that will probably hold all you can pull up by hand.

I'd say no more than 20 pounds. I typically do 5.5 gallon batches. My next batch has 10 pounds of grain. Add water from absorption...so maybe 13 pounds for this batch.

That is what I was thinking. I wasn't sure how much weight those eyebolts could hold...meaning the threads into the wood, not the actual bolt.

I would put an eye bolt through the joist. The ones that have a bolt and nut on them and not the simple screw in type. That will be plenty strong.

Through the side? Yeah I could do that too. That may actually work better set up wise. The joist is a few inches infront of my kettle so I'd have to move my table forward. If I put it through the joist and have it having on the side of the joist, I may not have to move it at all.

I wouldn't worry about it. They hang boxing heavy bags from floor joists....not the best idea but they do it.

If you really want to be on the safe side you could cut a 2x4 to fit between 2 joists. Around 14 1/2"
Nail that on the flat from the backside of the beam and install an eye bolt with a large washer through the 2x4... Aint goin nowhere nohow....you could even add a teco for good measure...

I definitely wouldn't hang it off the cross bracing...they can loosin up

Yeah I figured the bracing wouldn't be strong enough. Figured I'd ask though since it would be pretty simple to do.


I think I may put it through the joist if I can do that without moving the table. If I still have to move the table, I may just screw it into the bottom of the joist.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I wouldn't screw it through the bottom of the joist. Theres not a lot of meat there. Plus its old and dry wood and a split would equal a disaster. Through the beam is way better at least halfway up so the twisting motion of the weight on one side doesn't spit the wood.

Trying to visualize what you mean by the table moving. The difference between the bottom of the joist and the side of the joist is like 3/4"..cant see how that would make a difference... The 2x4 idea I mentioned would give you the full width (14") to play with....casters on the table would allow you to move the table away from the bag and lower it into a bin....if its a small table

 

[Rhaop]

I used some unistrut from home depot to span as many joists as i wanted then used 3/8” x 4” lags with heavy washers, probably over kill but i wanted to be able to easily change out wether i need an eyebolt or needed a shorter or longer one, plus i wanted the ability to hang a deer under the deck

You don’t want a sack full of grain dropping into really hot wort while your face is there


That’s what i did

View attachment IMG_3195.jpg

 

[h22lude]

I wouldn't screw it through the bottom of the joist. Theres not a lot of meat there. Plus its old and dry wood and a split would equal a disaster. Through the beam is way better at least halfway up so the twisting motion of the weight on one side doesn't spit the wood.

Trying to visualize what you mean by the table moving. The difference between the bottom of the joist and the side of the joist is like 3/4"..cant see how that would make a difference... The 2x4 idea I mentioned would give you the full width (14") to play with....casters on the table would allow you to move the table away from the bag and lower it into a bin....if its a small table

I'll be going through the joist using a nut and bolt eyebolt with some big washer.

Yeah it won't make a big difference but the less I have to move away from the wall the better. Casters are a good idea. I'll have to look into that.

I used some unistrut from home depot to span as many joists as i wanted then used 3/8” x 4” lags with heavy washers, probably over kill but i wanted to be able to easily change out wether i need an eyebolt or needed a shorter or longer one, plus i wanted the ability to hang a deer under the deck

You don’t want a sack full of grain dropping into really hot wort while your face is there


That’s what i did

Nice idea.

 

[wilserbrewer]

A 3/8 lag screw installed properly into the bottom of the joist would likely hold 500 lbs, probably double or triple that.

putting an eye bolt normal through the rafter will likely work as well, but this puts a lateral force on the eye bolt for which is not really intended and is actually much weaker than intended. Bolts are meant for tension not so much for side loads.

Whatever you do, I suggest proof loading your attachment point to 3-4 times the actual load it will encounter.

 

[RM-MN]

I would put an eye bolt through the joist. The ones that have a bolt and nut on them and not the simple screw in type. That will be plenty strong.

It's not intuitive but pulling sideways on the eyebolt is only half as strong as a straight pull with the screw thead eyebolt.

 

[h22lude]

It's not intuitive but pulling sideways on the eyebolt is only half as strong as a straight pull with the screw thead eyebolt.

Interesting, though I'd assume an eyebolt going sideways will hold 20lbs.

Maybe I will attach a 2x4 across the joists and use that to attach the eyebolt

 

[mongoose33]

Interesting, though I'd assume an eyebolt going sideways will hold 20lbs.

Maybe I will attach a 2x4 across the joists and use that to attach the eyebolt

It will. You're overthinking this. Lots of us have used eyebolts into the bottom of joists and they will hold tremendous amounts of weight. Do as Michael suggests, check it with 3 or 4 times the weight you'd expect, and you'll be fine.

The only reason I can think of to use a 2x4 between joists is if there's a specific location you want that pulley centered on. Otherwise, just put the eyebolt in the bottom of the joist.

 

[h22lude]

It will. You're overthinking this. Lots of us have used eyebolts into the bottom of joists and they will hold tremendous amounts of weight. Do as Michael suggests, check it with 3 or 4 times the weight you'd expect, and you'll be fine.

The only reason I can think of to use a 2x4 between joists is if there's a specific location you want that pulley centered on. Otherwise, just put the eyebolt in the bottom of the joist.

I tend to overthink things. My only concern was the thickness of the joist. I didn't want it to split and cause the eyebolt to fail.

 

[triethylborane]

I tend to overthink things. My only concern was the thickness of the joist. I didn't want it to split and cause the eyebolt to fail.

DO A BARREL ROLL

I mean, drill a pilot hole

 

[mongoose33]

I tend to overthink things. My only concern was the thickness of the joist. I didn't want it to split and cause the eyebolt to fail.

You need to predrill a hole for the shank (not the threads) of the threaded bolt to fill. Otherwise you will possibly split the joist.

Here's a pic showing a lag bolt, but a threaded eyebolt is the same. I marked on it the diameter of drill bit you'd want to use to drill the pilot hole. The threads will bite, but the shank of the bolt won't be splitting the joist.

I usually just hold the bolt up to my eye and place a bit in front of it to see if it covers the shank but not the threads.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

At the end of the day your talking about maybe 25# for 15 minutes...pretty much anything will work...still wouldn't go through the bottom just because drilling through a beam guarantees zero failure unless the floor beam cracks in half and that's never going to happen. The bottom is only guaranteed by the screw and your screwing skills...did I screw it in straight...is it centered kind of worries...most likely no worry at all for the weight we're talking but still makes you wonder...a hole through a beam is a hole through a beam....zero wondering

 

[andrewmaixner]

for mine, i bought something like this to screw to the cross beam, then hung the pulley from it

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...zinc-chest-handle/p-1444441575927-c-19550.htm

I have a 20gal system, so I've maxed at 40lb grain + water weight. I didn't want to under-engineer it, and it's literally only a couple dollars for a strong solution.

 

[NitrogenWidget]

long eyebolt in the bottom of the beam in the center is the best way.
Or spanning multiple joists on the bottom is a bester way.

there is a reason tradesmen put holes halfway up if they need to run wire in the basement.
They don't want to weaken the floor joist.
Especially if there is a load bearing wall on top of it.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Just an FYI I bought this from Harbor Freight and it is pretty damn awesome....one finger locking in place hoisting with the blue lever and "cool factor" click click click as it hoist the bag while it drains...a couple bolts in the beam and you'd be all set....just sayin

https://www.harborfreight.com/manual-strap-winch-95541.html

 

[h22lude]

for mine, i bought something like this to screw to the cross beam, then hung the pulley from it

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...zinc-chest-handle/p-1444441575927-c-19550.htm

I have a 20gal system, so I've maxed at 40lb grain + water weight. I didn't want to under-engineer it, and it's literally only a couple dollars for a strong solution.

That's a cool idea. If HD or Lowes has something like this, I may go this route. If not, I'll use an eyebolt on the bottom of the joist with a pilot hole.

 

[mongoose33]

That's a cool idea. If HD or Lowes has something like this, I may go this route. If not, I'll use an eyebolt on the bottom of the joist with a pilot hole.

They have something like that. Every home store does. It's a handle.

You aren't probably going to like it as much as an eye bolt. The pulley will tend to slide when you pull on it. An eyebolt won't do that.

I took a pic of my setup in the garage. I have a very specific location for my boil kettle in relation to a window and fan setup I use in the winter to exhaust steam. That location is in between the rafters--so I bridged the gap with a 2x4. I could have used just one lag bolt in each side for this very trivial load, but I may use it for other things, so I overbuilt it.

I've also attached a pic of how during termperate times of the year I suspend my BIAB bag. The angle iron that suspends both tracks for my overhead garage doors has 3 lag bolts holding it in place.

 

[wilserbrewer]

No hardware required, drill a hole through the rafter and tie off your pulley.

 

[balrog]

No hardware required, drill a hole through the rafter and tie off your pulley.

This is what I was going to say. Some 3/8 rope or 2-3 strands of simple clothesline, would hold more than you need. Drill one hole, thread, use your favorite Boy Scout knot (bowline, square not, whatever) and you're done. No need to lift a car.

 

[RM-MN]

I tend to overthink things. My only concern was the thickness of the joist. I didn't want it to split and cause the eyebolt to fail.

This is why I called for a 5/16 hole to be drilled first. Only the threads need to displace the wood. I called out a 3/8 eyebolt, knowing that it was way more strength than needed but I didn't know just how much it would hold. I looked at the specifications one manufacturer had listed and with a 4 inch screw length I think it said it would hold 1300 pounds. If you pulling on one side of the pulley and the bag pulling on the other side will exceed this amount you need to rethink your brewing location.

 

[h22lude]

Ok I'm going with a 3/8 eyebolt and drilling a pilot hole into the bottom of the joist. I'm going to stop over thinking it lol Thanks everyone

 

[daveMN]

Ok I'm going with a 3/8 eyebolt and drilling a pilot hole into the bottom of the joist. I'm going to stop over thinking it lol Thanks everyone

You'll be happy with that. I anchor my pulley the same way.

 

[PrairieDawg]

What about a hitch ring mounted to the bottom of the joist.
I have a couple of these in my garage for various light duty hoisting.

https://www.hardwareworld.com/ppfkll2/Hitch-Ring-Plate

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

You know your on a good forum when you get 27 responses on where to put a screw

 

[Goowa]

You know your on a good forum when you get 27 responses on where to put a screw

Response 29, rebooting a really old thread but here's how I rigged mine up. Old heavy bag bracket with 4 inch, 5/16 lag screws fastening it to the underside of the joist.

 

[balrog]

Good God man, screwed and bracket supported! That will hold me, my family, and half the neighborhood!

 

[mongoose33]

Good God man, screwed and bracket supported! That will hold me, my family, and half the neighborhood!

I'd just stick a screw eye into the joist. It'd hold the 30# or so of weight in the bag.

 

[MaxStout]

Response 29, rebooting a really old thread but here's how I rigged mine up. Old heavy bag bracket with 4 inch, 5/16 lag screws fastening it to the underside of the joist. View attachment 628649

You must be hoisting some enormous BIAB batches to need a bracket with two 5/16 x 4" lags into the joist and a stack of fender washers on the back side of that eye bolt.

Is @wilserbrewer making 50 gal BIAB bags?

 

[wilserbrewer]

Is @wilserbrewer making 50 gal BIAB bags?

Yes we are...have made bags for 3B systems as well as 500 liter...

4 lag bolts at 5/16” is easily good for thousand pounds easily....

 

[FlabbyRoach]

I had a couple of hooks that I used to hang my bike on. I found the center of the joist and drilled a pilot hole for the thread. I then tested it by hanging my body weight, 180 pounds, from the hook. Never looked back.

I had to use a small chain due to the higher ceiling in the garage.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I then tested it by hanging my body weight, 180 pounds, from the hook. Never looked back.

Proof loading is always a wise idea!!!

 

[matt_m]

It worked out that an I-beam runs right about where I intended to put my kettle. I bought a beam clamp and a 3/8 threaded eye bolt at Lowes. Should be strong enough LOL.

 

[Goowa]

You must be hoisting some enormous BIAB batches to need a bracket with two 5/16 x 4" lags into the joist and a stack of fender washers on the back side of that eye bolt.

Is @wilserbrewer making 50 gal BIAB bags?

Just the stuff I had on hand. [emoji57]

#brickSh*tHouse

 

[MaxStout]

Why use one bolt when three will do. We'll never read a post from you later like, "my BIAB fell from the ceiling, is my beer ruined?"

 

[balrog]

I'm still wanting to devise and install the simplistic travelling overhead pulley with swing away arm system.

With a motor.

Using paperclips, dental floss and duct tape.

 

[Red Clay]

I don't have it installed yet, but I'll be using 1 5/8" Unistruts and the Unistrut Trolly System to suspend (and move) my BrewHa BIAC 1/2 barrel basket.

After the first batch with that beast, I realized that two grown and well-fed men could barely, and certainly not safely, lift the wet grain up out of the conical. So I went totally overboard and bought a full I-beam 1-ton overhead trolly. Now that I'm moving from the covered porch to the basement I don't have the overhead room, nor do I need to lift a small car worth of wet grain!

The Unistrut P2950 can handle a 600 lb dynamic load, and I can move it around my basement using an overhead trolly made of cheap Unistrut sections. I'm a couple of months away from that stage on my basement build, but I'll post pics when it's up and running.