What is the best bang for your buck in the RO water filter systems?

[humann_brewing]

Brew science/Water I think this fits

I have studied a lot in the past on water but I need to get more serious about adjusting it. I think at the same time I could provide great drinking water for my family.

I am thinking of the under the sink models where a tap could be put on the sink. I would then have to figure out a way to run it continuously to fill up carboys or something for brewday but that is in the future.

Does anyone have a good suggestion for a system out there?

Just going through amazon I found this:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005A3WM6C/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 but a bit pricy in my mind

and then this for under the $200 mark which sounds reasonable

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XELTTG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I am looking for ease of maintenance too. From what I think, most are universal for a lot of the replacement filters like 10" cartridges right?

 

[Golddiggie]

Why are you looking to go full RO?? I went with this [three filter] system where I live now (had it installed after living here for about a week). Does a great job of filtering my water without having all the pain of a full RO system. I've lived with RO systems before and they can be a total PITA at times. While the tank is a nice idea, it takes some time to fill it up. As far as I'm concerned, RO systems are severe over-kill 99% of the time. Unless you have things in your water that ONLY a full bore RO system will remove, save your money.

BTW, I paid less than the current price for my system (paid $139). With Amazon Prime, shipping was cheap ($8.99 for next day/Saturday delivery).

Also, the system I have is beyond easy to change the filters. Especially compared with the system I had before (you needed to use a special wrench to remove the filter housing) and the RO system my mother has. Those two are/were the Same as the <$200 system you linked to.

 

[humann_brewing]

Why are you looking to go full RO?? I went with this [three filter] system where I live now (had it installed after living here for about a week). Does a great job of filtering my water without having all the pain of a full RO system. I've lived with RO systems before and they can be a total PITA at times. While the tank is a nice idea, it takes some time to fill it up. As far as I'm concerned, RO systems are severe over-kill 99% of the time. Unless you have things in your water that ONLY a full bore RO system will remove, save your money.

BTW, I paid less than the current price for my system (paid $139). With Amazon Prime, shipping was cheap ($8.99 for next day/Saturday delivery).

Also, the system I have is beyond easy to change the filters. Especially compared with the system I had before (you needed to use a special wrench to remove the filter housing) and the RO system my mother has. Those two are/were the Same as the <$200 system you linked to.

In my case I have what I call semi hard water 150-180 CaCO3 and I will be moving to a location where we are not serviced by the city soon and I have a feeling the water will be even harder up there. I am trying to get a report of that water but in the meantime I was looking into this.

I can say that I don't like the taste of our water but I guess it is just a matter of how much filtration does it need.

 

[Golddiggie]

You're going to well water?? If so, I'd go with a filtration system on that, before it goes to anything in the house. Then, if you need more filtration, add something under the sink. I would also wait for the water report and not assume the water in the new location is worse.

 

[Yooper]

I bought this system:

www.bulkreefsupply.com/bulk-reverse-osmosis-filters-systems/reverse-osmosis-systems.html

I'm thrilled with it! It's fast, and I can fill my 15 gallon HLT in an afternoon. It doesn't come with the pressure tank (which I understand makes it slower) or the faucet, but they have those add-ons too, or the system for that.

 

[humann_brewing]

You're going to well water?? If so, I'd go with a filtration system on that, before it goes to anything in the house. Then, if you need more filtration, add something under the sink. I would also wait for the water report and not assume the water in the new location is worse.

Yes I know, I have put in the question to the builder. I do know that they have 2 new water tanks at the top of the hill that I assume service our new neighborhood, they are huge so I doubt they are filled with a well but again I have no idea at this point.

I have also asked them for the detail of where the water comes into the home for the reason you eluded to of filtering the water coming into the home.

The house will have pex water lines so I don't think I will have to worry about the classic scaling of minerals in pipes but still.

 

[humann_brewing]

I bought this system:

www.bulkreefsupply.com/bulk-reverse-osmosis-filters-systems/reverse-osmosis-systems.html

I'm thrilled with it! It's fast, and I can fill my 15 gallon HLT in an afternoon. It doesn't come with the pressure tank (which I understand makes it slower) or the faucet, but they have those add-ons too, or the system for that.

Thanks Yoop, which system did you get, your link just goes to the page with all of them.

 

[Golddiggie]

I was talking about well water being run through a filtration system as it enters the house. Didn't know what you had for a water source at the new place. I would get the builder, or whoever you're going to pay for the water, to give you a full on (recent) water report.

For reference, the system I have goes down to a .2 micron filter membrane. Water flow lets me fill up my mash tun (did 10 gallons into the mash tun) at about 1gpm rate. It might be a little slower than that, since I didn't really time it. I do know that the flow rate isn't an issue for me.

 

[humann_brewing]

I was talking about well water being run through a filtration system as it enters the house. Didn't know what you had for a water source at the new place. I would get the builder, or whoever you're going to pay for the water, to give you a full on (recent) water report.

For reference, the system I have goes down to a .2 micron filter membrane. Water flow lets me fill up my mash tun (did 10 gallons into the mash tun) at about 1gpm rate. It might be a little slower than that, since I didn't really time it. I do know that the flow rate isn't an issue for me.

Thanks, I have sent the email previously asking for the water info at the new place. Hopefully they just give me the supplier as I think that will be easier.

 

[Golddiggie]

Thanks, I have sent the email previously asking for the water info at the new place. Hopefully they just give me the supplier as I think that will be easier.

Most likely... Or find out who else is supplied from the same source and get a sample to send out to the lab. Then, filter it as needed for your brewing. I'd rather wait a bit to brew and know I didn't get more system than I needed for filtration. Although, I did go with the system I did without getting a sample tested. The water report from the town looked pretty damned good. At some point I should send out a sample from my filter system to see how it does.

 

[ajdelange]

I have studied a lot in the past on water but I need to get more serious about adjusting it. I think at the same time I could provide great drinking water for my family.

Modern technology has given 2 great gifts to the home brewer: Affordable RO systems and affordable pH meters. Your decision to obtain an RO unit should probably be deferred until you know something about the water from your new well but if you live in the central US it is probably the only practical solution for most brewers. Hard alkaline water can be decarbonated in other ways depending on what else is in it but RO always works and is much easier to implement than the chemical/heat treatments. Of course if you only brew high mineral beers there is no need for an RO system but if you want to do the delicate continental beers it's almost a necessity especially if your water is high in sodium and/or sulfate. There is no other way to get them out besides distillation.

One of the big advantages of RO is that seasonal variations in your supply do not need to be tracked - the mineral content of the water out of the RO system will vary with that of the supply but will always be essentially mineral free.

If properly installed an RO system is hardly difficult to operate or maintain. I have used various ones for years and my 'repair' record consists of replacing the pilot light in the control box a couple of times when it burned out. Proper installation in a hard water area does imply feeding the system with softened water. If you don't do this the same crusting that forms on your shower heads and faucets will form on the RO membrane and it will have to be replaced.

I am thinking of the under the sink models where a tap could be put on the sink. I would then have to figure out a way to run it continuously to fill up carboys or something for brewday but that is in the future.

Trivial. Obtain a plastic T, some tubing and a valve. You can find these as Home Despot and other similar stores. Connect the T in the line running to the pressure tank. Connect the third arm to a piece of tubing with the valve in it running to the carboy. To collect large quantities of water just open the valve. The pressure in the pressure tank will quickly empty it after which the membrane will provide a trickle of water through the T. When operating this way the system will produce a lot more water because the pressure across the membrane is the full pressure of your feed - not feed minus pressure tank pressure.

Does anyone have a good suggestion for a system out there?

No. I have a custom system I put together myself. Prior to that I did use the GE systems sold by Home Despot.

I am looking for ease of maintenance too. From what I think, most are universal for a lot of the replacement filters like 10" cartridges right?

I used those GE systems for years and finally gave them away to a couple of home brewers who may be still using them. I never did any maintenance. If you do have hard water and install a softener that will generally 'clean' the water of particulate matter as it gets trapped on the surface of the resin bed and cleared off when the resin bed gets back-washed during regeneration. The units themselves always have a pre-filter and carbon block filter. If lots of particulate matter builds up on those there will be a pressure drop across them and output will go down. This would be your clue that you should inspect them. A cheap TDS meter can be used to check the quality of the RO water. When the TDS reading goes up it is time to replace the membranes. In 10 years of use of one of the GE systems I never had to do that. Dropping in new filters is a piece of cake when you do need to do it though you do have to get the right filters for the system you bought.

Lots of folks here have had great success with outfits put together for the reef aquarium hobby.

 

[humann_brewing]

Modern technology has given 2 great gifts to the home brewer: Affordable RO systems and affordable pH meters. Your decision to obtain an RO unit should probably be deferred until you know something about the water from your new well but if you live in the central US it is probably the only practical solution for most brewers. Hard alkaline water can be decarbonated in other ways depending on what else is in it but RO always works and is much easier to implement than the chemical/heat treatments. Of course if you only brew high mineral beers there is no need for an RO system but if you want to do the delicate continental beers it's almost a necessity especially if your water is high in sodium and/or sulfate. There is no other way to get them out besides distillation.

One of the big advantages of RO is that seasonal variations in your supply do not need to be tracked - the mineral content of the water out of the RO system will vary with that of the supply but will always be essentially mineral free.

If properly installed an RO system is hardly difficult to operate or maintain. I have used various ones for years and my 'repair' record consists of replacing the pilot light in the control box a couple of times when it burned out. Proper installation in a hard water area does imply feeding the system with softened water. If you don't do this the same crusting that forms on your shower heads and faucets will form on the RO membrane and it will have to be replaced.



Trivial. Obtain a plastic T, some tubing and a valve. You can find these as Home Despot and other similar stores. Connect the T in the line running to the pressure tank. Connect the third arm to a piece of tubing with the valve in it running to the carboy. To collect large quantities of water just open the valve. The pressure in the pressure tank will quickly empty it after which the membrane will provide a trickle of water through the T. When operating this way the system will produce a lot more water because the pressure across the membrane is the full pressure of your feed - not feed minus pressure tank pressure.





No. I have a custom system I put together myself. Prior to that I did use the GE systems sold by Home Despot.




I used those GE systems for years and finally gave them away to a couple of home brewers who may be still using them. I never did any maintenance. If you do have hard water and install a softener that will generally 'clean' the water of particulate matter as it gets trapped on the surface of the resin bed and cleared off when the resin bed gets back-washed during regeneration. The units themselves always have a pre-filter and carbon block filter. If lots of particulate matter builds up on those there will be a pressure drop across them and output will go down. This would be your clue that you should inspect them. A cheap TDS meter can be used to check the quality of the RO water. When the TDS reading goes up it is time to replace the membranes. In 10 years of use of one of the GE systems I never had to do that. Dropping in new filters is a piece of cake when you do need to do it though you do have to get the right filters for the system you bought.

Lots of folks here have had great success with outfits put together for the reef aquarium hobby.

Thanks a lot ajdelange, I just listened to the water talk at NHC (Seattle) where you were on the panel. I got a lot of great info, a lot of good solid info.

I will wait until I can find out more about my future water, hopefully I won't need a whole house water softener though

For now, I will dilute my home water with store bought 5g fill ups of drinking water I guess. I know that stuff goes through RO, UV light etc... just not sure what they add back if anything. Then add back the stuff I need or adjust pH from there.

 

[Yooper]

Thanks Yoop, which system did you get, your link just goes to the page with all of them.

Weird, as I was on the page I bought.

I bought the 4 stage RO (no DI) for $119 (it's gone up $10 it looks like since I bought). It has auto shut off, but I don't use that as I don't have a float switch or a pressure tank.

 

[humann_brewing]

well I tracked down the guy with the answers and got a water report. Looks like nice brewing water, I just need to clarify some things with the guy because some of the numbers seem waaaaaaay off.

Take a look at these

all in ppm
TDS 33
CL 19.55
HCO3 18.3
Ca 4174
Mg 708
pH 6.7
Na 3558
SO4 1.614
CaCO3 15

I responded to him about the huge numbers seeing if there was a misprint or if they were measured in another measurement. I don't think those numbers are possible given the other numbers.

This is primarily mountain runoff that goes into a lake, which is what is tested and then treated. I am going to like this much better than my current 150-180 CaCO3, pH 8 water now that is once I verify that there isn't an insane amount of Ca, Mg, and Na. I mean really if there was that much Na, it would literally tasted like I salted my water to a crazy level on purpose and probably have me in the bathroom minutes afterward.

 

[hillhousesawdustco]

must have left out a "dot" somewhere in there. I have the same RO system as yooper (on her suggestion) and it works very well. I didn't realize how much "waste" water it would produce but it isn't that big a deal. My water hit CaCO3 = 359 so I absolutely had to to do something about the astringency I was getting.

 

[ajdelange]

Systems for home use are usually set up to waste a lot of water (typically 80% or more) in order to protect the membrane from salt deposition. If the system is being fed with softened water the recovery can be increased by increasing the pressure at the inlet to the system by a pump while throttling the concentrate line (the input pressure and thus the recovery is usually controlled by this throttling). Recovery of 50% is relatively easy to obtain and one can go even higher at the cost of degraded rejection.