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jlietzow

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I have been looking for a fridge or freezer to serve as a fermentation chamber and came across someone selling an old fridge that had been fitted with a keg. From the decals on the fridge it looks like it was used for Miller Lite.

I wasn't planning to get into kegging yet, but now I'm intrigued. I know I'd at least need a corny keg but am not sure how much else I'd need to add. Can anyone help me determine what I'd need to buy? Also, are there any good resources on kegging that you can recommend? I have the John Palmer "Complete Joy of Homebrewing" book but it doesn't have much on kegging.
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John Palmer "Complete Joy of Homebrewing" book
John Palmer didn't write that book, Charlie Papazian did. Credit to whom deserves.

That's a Sanke keg connector, all commercial beer comes in Sanke kegs.
Most homebrewers use Corny kegs, they're easier to clean without special equipment.

You'd need at least:
  • one or more corny kegs
  • 2 "quick disconnects" (QDs) one for gas (gray) and one for liquid (black) for each keg
  • 12' of 3/16" beer line per keg
Corny kegs can be bought new for around $75-100, or used for $30-50 (Craigslist, online brew stores, your own LHBS). MoreBeer has Torpedo Kegs, they're all metal, pretty cool looking and work well from what I've heard. They're regular ball lock.

I prefer Ball lock kegs over (older model) Pin locks, but either should work. Pin locks are a bit wider and shorter than Ball locks. The 2 types use different QDs.

I get a lot of my kegging supplies from RiteBrew.

Read up on kegging, plenty of threads.
 
  • Cornie keg
  • gas disconnect
  • liquid disconnect
Cornie keg: ball lock or pin lock; they are different heights and widths, so google and make sure they fit your fridge.

[edit] lizard types faster than I do apparently... his post wasn't there when I started typing :(
 
I suggest that you use metal clamps on all fittings instead of platics. And use the clam on the barbed fittings if you don't want to waste some precious liquid :)

If you want to go homebrew kegging you would probably change that sanke connector for some Pin or Ball Lock connectors in order to use Cornelius kegs that are a lot more convivial for a homebrewer. Also, I like using Flare connectors since you can switch easily from pin to ball lock (a have 10 pin lock kegs and two ball locks) See picture for the flare connectors and ball lock gas/liquid connections.

Another thing, You can go with this Tap first but don't hold to it too much, these become sticky when you don't use them for a few days and they leak a little bit now and then. I upgraded my two fridges to Intertap SS and Perlick SS, it's a big improvement. Put that on the christmas gift list ;)

You have just very few to invest to have your step into keging, welcome to the gang :) Have fun.

Edit : sorry for repeating, more answers came while I was writing ;)
 

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John Palmer didn't write that book, Charlie Papazian did. Credit to whom deserves.

That's a Sanke keg connector, all commercial beer comes in Sanke kegs.
Most homebrewers use Corny kegs, they're easier to clean without special equipment.

You'd need at least:
  • one or more corny kegs
  • 2 "quick disconnects" (QDs) one for gas (gray) and one for liquid (black) for each keg
  • 12' of 3/16" beer line
Corny kegs can be bought new for around $75-100, or used for $30-50 (Craigslist, online brew stores, your own LHBS). MoreBeer has Torpedo Kegs, they're all metal, pretty cool looking and work well from what I've heard. They're regular ball lock.

I prefer Ball lock kegs over (older model) Pin locks, but either should work. Pin locks are a bit wider and shorter than Ball locks. The 2 types use different QDs.

I get a lot of my kegging supplies from RiteBrew.

Read up on kegging, plenty of threads.
I stand corrected! Charlie Papazian is indeed the author. :)
 
Excellent suggestions ^ and ^^.

Your fridge may actually hold 2 kegs (and taps). Worth checking out. The gas tank would then stay on the outside.
 
It probably doesn’t need to be said but replace the plastic beer line (CO2 line should be fine) and dissassemble the faucet and boil all the bits and pieces. Hang on to the sanke connector, you never know when you’ll come across a great deal on a commercial keg.
 
Hey, OP. Are you in the Garland area? I was following that same post on FB and was wondering if you also bought the second tank. That was me trying to get it.
 
Why buy soda kegs when you can just use Sanke, makes no sense at all to me. Sanke kegs are easy to clean and easier to maintain imho. No special tools needed at all to remove the stem. Just buy the screw type from kegco! https://www.kegco.com/commercial-equipment/commercial-beer-kegs/hs-k5g-dth/

I would be interested in knowing why you think they are easier to clean and maintain. The following quote from the website you linked pretty much supports what I have always thought to be the case.

"Commercial kegs are intended to be used by professional breweries that have the specialized equipment to properly clean and sanitize these style kegs. These kegs are not recommended for use by home brewers who want to dispense beer using a commercial keg. There is no way to effectively clean and sanitize them without specialized equipment."
 
Thanks to everyone for the help - I'm always amazed by the number of people who are willing to share their expertise. I have learned much in the last few days.

I found someone selling a used corny keg on LetGo locally for $25, including a set of o-rings. I think I'll try to pick that up and give it a shot.
 
I would suggest the Kegging forum on here and watching YouTube videos for beginner kegging to understand what you are working with or what you might need.
 

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