I am guessing a bad seal on the growler. Have you tried using a traditional cap on a regular bottle to see if you get the same results? Also, use some star san to see if you have a leak on the top you are using now.Hi, I need help.
Every time I fill a growler from a keg it loses carbonation extremely fast, I've tried different things (including bottles) and nothing seems to work.
These are the steps I follow so maybe you guys can give me some light.
1.Clean and sanitized growler goes into the freezer until cold.
2.Drop keg CO2 to 3ish PSI and purge keg
3.Put the beer line inside the growler (we've done it with the spigot too)
4.Fill until foam is out of the bottle.
5.Lock growler.
Keg haves been priming at 45F with 12 PSI for 2 weeks.
We did this last night and try the beer in less than an hour and it was already losing carbonation, it wasn't flat but it wasn't fully carbed as the sample we took earlier from the keg. (the beer is correctly carbed)
This has happened with growler, ceramic bottles like Rogue, we did one with a warm bottle too. We don't really know what we're doing wrong.
I've been reading this entire post and I seems like a lot of people is doing the same thing with good results, so I've been thinking up upping the CO2 leves?
I am guessing a bad seal on the growler. Have you tried using a traditional cap on a regular bottle to see if you get the same results? Also, use some star san to see if you have a leak on the top you are using now.
Hi, I need help.
Every time I fill a growler from a keg it loses carbonation extremely fast, I've tried different things (including bottles) and nothing seems to work.
These are the steps I follow so maybe you guys can give me some light.
1.Clean and sanitized growler goes into the freezer until cold.
2.Drop keg CO2 to 3ish PSI and purge keg
3.Put the beer line inside the growler (we've done it with the spigot too)
4.Fill until foam is out of the bottle.
5.Lock growler.
Keg haves been priming at 45F with 12 PSI for 2 weeks.
We did this last night and try the beer in less than an hour and it was already losing carbonation, it wasn't flat but it wasn't fully carbed as the sample we took earlier from the keg. (the beer is correctly carbed)
This has happened with growler, ceramic bottles like Rogue, we did one with a warm bottle too. We don't really know what we're doing wrong.
I've been reading this entire post and I seems like a lot of people is doing the same thing with good results, so I've been thinking up upping the CO2 leves?
Your container is the obvious item in question. after that I would increase your carb to 14 or 15psi and/or drop temp.
Is this an ale? per the force carb chart http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php 45F at 12PSI is the very min volumes of CO2 for lagers and ales. if your temp is perfect and not a bit warmer and your PSI is exact and not a bit lower your beer would be on the low end to begin with. if both are off a bit in the wrong way then you could be at 2.00 volumes instead of 2.5 that would be preferable.
I entered two beers into a recent competition, an American barleywine and an imperial stout, both bottled off a keg using this method within minutes of each other. The stout scored a 40, and one judge noted a "slightly vinous" character in the overall impression, but thoroughly enjoyed the beer. The barleywine scored a 24, and the comments included sherry, vinegar, and papery, none of which are found in a fresh pull.
I've used this method a few other times with no ill effects, but the beers weren't overly hoppy. So, are hoppy beers less stable using this method? Could the bottle they sampled maybe have been contaminated in some way? Has anyone else had oxidation issues lately? Just differences in judge perception?
Basically, I want consistency when bottling, and I HATE using my CPBF.
I can't get this to work consistently for the life of me... I had 2 successful attempt out of ~6? Thought I was getting the hang of it, tried again a few days ago, failed miserably.
If I vent it a bunch of times, then turn it down to 5 (or less) psi, it's just pure foam in the line. I'm using 10' lines with a 2' cane and rubber stopper.
Personally it worked better for me at 10 psi than it did at 5. The first bottle is foamy, but then everything is fine. I actually use only 4 or 5 feet of line with a normal bottle filler came (maybe 18"?).
curious but would the perlick 650 with the flow control be able to adapt for a proper pour without the need to lower the psi?
I don't know if this might help, maybe there is still pressure in the keg?If I vent it a bunch of times, then turn it down to 5 (or less) psi, it's just pure foam in the line. I'm using 10' lines with a 2' cane and rubber stopper.
I feel like if you are filling them up and capping on foam, isn't that purging most of the oxygen? I guess the bubbles will contain air, which obviously has oxygen, but it's much less then if there was no foam at all.
I'm sure this has been brought up, but what's the longest anyone gone with bottles bottled like this?
So I entered some beer that I bottled using almost this method in a competition and it scored poorly and both judges noted oxidation notes. I don't get any, but I also know from an off flavor class, that I'm not very sensitive to it. I'm ready to package some big imperial stouts and I had thought about possibly kegging and then bottling off the keg, but after seeing those comments, I think I'll just bottle like normal. I still think it works great for bottling off a few bottles to take and consume quickly, but from now on, I will only keg beers I know I'll finish in the keg. Take it for what that's worth
.......if this works, i just might be tempted to have my vasectomy reversed so i can name a child biermuncher.
If this works, I just might be tempted to have my vasectomy reversed so I can name a child BierMuncher.
Enter your email address to join: