Using a Ph meter

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eastbaybrewer

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I purchased a ph meter. Pocket Pen Water PH Meter Digital Tester PH-009 IA 0.0-14.0pH
I have questions on using and storing it. I've read to let mash sit of 10 mintues before taking the reading. The tester is only good up 122 degrees so I am planning on pulling out a small amount of the mash and testing when it cools down.
What should I have on hand to rise or lower ph? If it's 15 minutes into the mash is it to late to change ph? I only thing I can find for storing the meter is keep the probe wet. How do you guy's store your meters?
 
I am not familiar with your particular meter, but I would follow the manufacturer's recommendations for use and storage. I have a fancy professional type meter and the probe is stored wet in a neutral storage solution. I tend to baby mine in hopes of prolonging the probe life and rinse it before and after use with distilled water.

Waiting 5-10 minutes to allow the mash to come to temperature and settle in is correct. You will not need to pull very much for a sample, so you should be able to chill in down quickly. If your pH is too high, add small amounts of a food grade acid; lactic (what I use) or Citric. Add it incrementally in small amounts (1/2 tsp or so) and retest. The first couple may not do much of anything, at some point the buffer will be overcome it will suddenly change fast. Avoid the temptation of "it's not working, I'm going to add a lot" as you can very quickly over shoot. If it is too low, you need to add bicarbonates and/or "hardness" in the form of calcium and magnesium. A good water chemistry calculator is going to be your friend. In my experience with my water sources, I have not had many issues with the pH being too low.
 
Most mashes are half way done after 15-20 minutes, too late to make corrections then.

Perform a small test mash with half a pound of your grist mix. Mix well or measure the small quantities precisely. Take a reading and apply the correction to your main batch.
 
You could just use BrunWater to figure out your additions ahead of time, instead of trying to chase your pH around...
 
Here's a trick for cooling a sample quickly: put a couple of heavy small glasses into the freezer when you start. Then, pour the sample into one, then the other, then back--and it'll cool down in a hurry.

I had a couple of whiskey-tasting glasses that were just perfect, but anything with a little bit of mass to it should suffice.

You can see those glasses in the pic below. I use the little colander to push the mash down, then draw the sample w/ the turkey baster.

phsamplestuff.jpg
 
Ok so I brewed a pale ale yesterday and decided just to mash and check the ph, to get a base line. The ph was 5.5 at room temperature. At the top of the good scale. What could I expect on a stout type recipe?
 
Ok so I brewed a pale ale yesterday and decided just to mash and check the ph, to get a base line. The ph was 5.5 at room temperature. At the top of the good scale. What could I expect on a stout type recipe?

My experience has been that darker grains tend to lower ph so probably less than 5.5. I never have to adjust ph on stouts, porters, or even relatively dark beers like Scottish heavys.
 
You could just use BrunWater to figure out your additions ahead of time, instead of trying to chase your pH around...


+1. Bru'n Water has been accurate to the point I rarely check behind the program much anymore. Just need an accurate starting point with good lab tests for your source brewing water.
 
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