They are called "Expo Neon" markers. My kids picked them up for me. Probably either at Michael's, Staples or Office Depot.
I use the extra line for several things. Mostly to force carb at a different pressure, or if I needed to serve at a different pressure. Just added flexibility...-Why do you have two CO2 lines and one mix coming into the keezer? You have an 8-way manifold for CO2 and and a 2-way for Mix but what is the extra line for? Beer Gun? Soda? Just curious.
If you do a wood frame shelf support, you could probaby mount the regulators vertically to one of the front legs. I personally like them outside of the fridge.-In my chest keezer I have three secondary gauges for providing different Vols of CO2. Would you have any recommendations on how to work those gauges into this design? I would think if you only put 4 kegs in the bottom row you could fit a bank of regulators on the lower left wall.
Sure, 5 per row would work. You need to put them through the wall where the inside shelf has a flat spot for mounting though. If you use the position I used for one row, that will put your second row about 12" above the first (or below if you wanted to go that direction). I've now found that going to 8 taps that I'm keeping some beers on longer than I would like. Just not going through enough beer consistently.-Seems you could have 10 taps pouring out of this thing. Would you think two rows of 5 taps would work?
I would think you could drill there, but not having seen your freezer, I really can't say.jeffcosgrove said:Jon,
I absolutely love this build and I am going to copy it almost exactly. I bought the newer version of this freezer and am unsure about where I can drill the holes for the CO2 lines. It looks like yours are just above the part that sticks out at the bottom on the right (as you are facing from the door. Do you think I can drill in the same place?
The use of the SS tubing was two-fold. First was to have a hard-line through the freezer wall so that there wouldn't be any problems with the line getting cut, kinked, etc. The second goal was to have the 90 degree bend which significantly minimizes the required space between the freezer and the wall.jeffcosgrove said:Can I just run the tubing through without the 90 deg stainless pieces?
Holes were drilled from both the inside and the outside. I first drilled a pilot hole all the way through, then I drilled the larger holes from both sides. I used a drill guide to make sure I was drilling perpendicular to the surface.jeffcosgrove said:Is it better to drill the holes for the shanks from the inside or outside?
I bought the balls pre-drilled off of ebay.jeffcosgrove said:Any tips on drilling the pool balls to fit the tappers?
Thanks a lot. I can't wait to get started.
Jeff
I removed the shroud at the bottom and took a picture. Am I right in assuming all of the coils are contained right here and I can drill anywhere above the shroud?
One more question Jon. Where did you find the 90 deg tail pieces in stainless?
Thanks.
What did you use for the shelf supports?
Lovey build.
I placed a jumper on the built-in thermostat to make it run continuously and then have it plugged into an outlet controlled by my BCS. There are obvious benefits to an external temp controller, but the one downside is that the inside light only works if the external controller is currently chilling. Not a biggie, but I've thought about wiring the light on it's own circuit.Jon, did you use the existing thermostat or override it with a temperature controller? I didn't see anything in your pics.
When I do brew days, it's usually an open invite for others to attend. You might want to check out Brewcommune.com - the club I'm in. What end of town you at?What a great build, I need to come over for a pour (I live in Huntington Beach too!). We can do a beer swap!
I periodically mix up BLC and put it in a keg to run through the lines for cleaning.How do you clean the lines with all of them bundled so nicely? Great job by the way!
When I do brew days, it's usually an open invite for others to attend. You might want to check out Brewcommune.com - the club I'm in. What end of town you at?
Cool! Let me know. Im in north HB, springdale and edinger.
You're very close. I'm just off Bolsa Chica. Brewing this Sunday from 9:00 AM until ???? (doing two 10g batches). PM me if you're interested in coming by. Yeah, I know it's Easter, but I didn't know that when I scheduled the brew day.Cool! Let me know. Im in north HB, springdale and edinger.
From post #1....."I also added a 2x2 wood frame to support the freezer shelf."
I periodically mix up BLC and put it in a keg to run through the lines for cleaning.
I placed a jumper on the built-in thermostat to make it run continuously and then have it plugged into an outlet controlled by my BCS. There are obvious benefits to an external temp controller, but the one downside is that the inside light only works if the external controller is currently chilling. Not a biggie, but I've thought about wiring the light on it's own circuit.
There are 4 legs supporting the shelf. All 4 legs are beveled on the inside edge so that the kegs can push into the corners better.I can't see the back of this shelf so I am assuming that this shelf is essentially a 2 legged table where the two legs are what is visible in the front and the back it supported by the hump in the back?
I used 3/16" vinyl bev line for both the bev and gas. You need some flexibility with it.What kind of beverage line did you use. I currently have accuflex barrier line in my existing keezer and I think it would be too stiff for a project like this.
I never did hook up the light. I did bypass the defrost heater - that is required. The fan recirculates any time the compressor is on for cooling.Did you ever modify your wiring to solve the light issue? Did you bypass the defrost heater? I take it the recirculation fan still works?
This is an awesome build. One idea. If the wiring is easy to get to then consider LED lighting on the inside. You can use the switch to turn on and off and use a form of battery to power it instead of a constant current. If its a lithium battery then it wouldnt have problems with the cycling being its only charging source.
No need for battery, the schematic is simple on these units. I think someone just doesnt want to remove 11 kegs from the freezer to move it
Are those 4" or 5" shanks? Also, have you tried putting any sankey kegs in your keezer. I usually have 1 commercial keg on tap at all times in addition to my homebrew. I feel like a the sankey coupler with lines attached wont fit in the bottom section given the height you chose.
I never did hook up the light. I did bypass the defrost heater - that is required. The fan recirculates any time the compressor is on for cooling.
Does it still run fine? Drilling in the side is not where you want to be because of the coils. However, you could have got lucky and missed the coil and it will still work fine. You just need to plug it in and see.Dangit! Did I mess up? Am I at a bust? Is this unit toast? Did I ruin this bad boy?
I feel like I want to have the fan on 100% of the time regardless or not if the compressor is on. However, I have't tested to see how loud it is so maybe this is not a good idea.
Dangit! Did I mess up? Am I at a bust? Is this unit toast? Did I ruin this bad boy?
The freezer sides are WAY hot when cooling…
one-L said:Also, had you popped a coil, you would have known pretty much immediately as the freon would have vented in your face. How do I know you ask? An unfortunate event involving a hammer, a screwdriver, and an attempt to help my BIL remove a large buildup of ice from his freezer. No bueno.
How did you remove the shelves with the cooling lines running through them?
I have an extra freezer like that. Nice job!
Thanks. Oh well. Guess I'll stick with my 4 tap keezer.Frost-free models do not have any shelves with lines in them. If you have a model like that, it is a regular freezer and is not suitable for this.
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