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- Sep 15, 2007
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I bet it will... The more you make the better they'll be..
I have a dark lager that I brewed recently, but it wasn't dark enough. I'd like to add some extra carafa, but without the flavor. My question is, should I ass more right at the end of the mash? Will I get the color I need without the added flavor?
Got my yeast today. Ordered 2 day S&H (Nearly $19) 3 tubes w/ 3 ice packs. (Overnight was over $35) plus a 1oz pack of german magnum pellet hops. In FL, they JUST delivered 6:45 PM. box was warm. ARGH!
Wish there was a better option for this stuff..
Anyway, WLP 838 3 vials. two say best by 7/20 and one best by 6/27. Says they were bottled 4 months before best by date making the production/bottling/100% viable date: 2.27 & 3.30(x2)
So... here is the tricky part. If I want to brew on 4/21 (11 days from today) when to make my starter, and how to "fudge" the born on date to calculate the additional 11 days of aging (now they'll be in fridge however)?
Does it really matter? YES! Its like a 6% difference in viability.
I think I'm going to have to first figure out how many viable cells I have among the 3 vials per Mr Malty or Yeast Calc, and Then I can proceed to determine how to build my starter and from there, try and figure WHEN to make it, and account for time to step up/cold crash the thing, so that its ready by brew day.
TD
Does it really matter? YES! Its like a 6% difference in viability.
OK.. just had a debate with a friend (who was a home brewer "back in the day" and "may" know more than me on teh subject).
I say Pilsner is a distinct style of Lager and different from Budwieser/Miller/Coors as those are an american style pale lagers.. I know the Pilsners I have had from Germany are different.
There is no "beechwood aging" or Rice or corn German/Czech Pilsners and thats only some of the differences.
zeg said:If any of the models for predicting yeast viability or for computing yeast growth factors are accurate to better than 20% outside of a professional yeast lab setting, I will eat my hat.
So what is a homebrewer to do without a microscope and etc equipment? I'm thinking over pitch better than under pitch. Plus, impossible to determine the loss of viability incurred by temp during shipping,even with 2 day and ice packs...
Psyched! Doing a Munich Helles, 11Gal, step mash with new burners installed.
The only time I brewed with Pils malt the cooked corn aroma was distinct. Do yourself a favor and go the 90.but might go for 90 minutes cause of the Pils malt.
I leave both ales and lagers in primary about 10 days or so, normally.
Someone asked about my recipe. I was wondering if there is any feedback?
TD
Just reading this and wanted to ask, since my Czech Lager is in primary. I currently have a bubble per second from a blow off tube (Can't use an airlock due to the height of my fermentation/lager chamber). I had a three day lag on start-up at 53*F.
So, does the 10 days include the lag? Also, when I raise the temps to do the D-rest, should I raise it a few degrees at a time over a certain period or just increase all at once. I have the capability to increase by one degree or more up to four times per day. It is a programmable thermostatically controlled chamber.
My LHBS guy recommended to just move it to a warm room, but since I have the chamber I can control it much more accurately.
Thanks for your comments and wisdom in advance.
Raising it all at once is fine. Even so, it takes a long time for 5 gallons of liquid to raise up 10 degrees.
RO water with calcium chloride.
RO is short for Reverse Osmosis. Hard water has more 'crap' in it. Take a look at the primer 'stikyed' to the top here. AJ has done a lot of water research as a hobby.I read through this thread and saw Yooper and others mention RO water. What is that?
To expand, I'm a geologist living in California's Sierra Nevada mountains. My drinking water comes from higher up in the Sierras, which is all granite, all silicate. There's no limestone or calcium influence in my tap water unless the local water company is adding it. There's also no calcium build-up on my taps. I make mostly German and Belgian beers, and I know that there's tons of limestone all over Europe. I forget whether "hard" water means lots of calcium or no calcium, but obviously water chemistry has a big influence on beer. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
I'm new here; where's the sticky and what's it look like?
Bavaria sits on limestone, which softens water.
Since you're a geologist, can you explain this?
It is my understanding that limestone is primarily crystalline CaCO3, which erodes over time and adds Ca2+ to the water. I don't understand how it could soften water.
I hope this water talk isn't getting too off topic, but I'm wanting to brew some Bavarian-style lagers, and Bavaria sits on limestone, which softens water. I did a little research and my Sierra Nevada mountain water is very soft, like 14 mg/L of "hardness". Does anyone know anything about Paulaner's or Spaten's (or anyone else's) water? I'm guessing that it's different than mine, and may be fairly hard.
TrickyDick said:Stage two starter going! Curious to see how it takes off when I get off work tonight. Stage one was gangbusters!
Someone asked about my recipe. I was wondering if there is any feedback?
TD
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