Will adding ale yeast to a lager for carbing purposes introduce any ale flavors?
No, that's why it works so well.
Will adding ale yeast to a lager for carbing purposes introduce any ale flavors?
I'm jumping in the lager thread late, but I enjoy the heck out of lagers.
Bulls Beers, for a helles, definitely follow Kai's advice and look into the water primer too. I make a fantastic helles thanks to these two resources. I use mostly distilled water, a little calcium chloride, and acid malt (I think the acid malt adds some flavor in addition to adjusting the pH, so I think it's necessary). I swear when I take a sip of my helles, if I close my eyes, I'm sitting in Marienplatz outside of Augustiner. Two batches in a row have been identical to my palate.
Good stuff in this thread.
A lagering question I have wondered about from time to time.
I've done 3 lagers now, so far all have been transferred into keg after the diacetyl rest and lagered in the keg. However, I have a limited number of kegs. so I was thinking about transferring from primary to secondary carboy after d-rest and do the first 3-4 weeks in a carboy. Then I could transfer to keg and connect CO2 for the last 3-4 weeks of lagering.
Other than potential problems with the extra handling, is there a problem with this?
TIA
Yooper said:No, that sound be fine.
I agree.
But, it won't hurt to add some yeast either. You can add 1/3 of a package of a dry yeast (like nottingham) to the cooled priming solution in the bottling bucket, stir it well, and then rack the beer into it. It guarantees an even and fast (relatively) carbing.
No, that sound be fine.
Could you make any ale into a lager by just changing the yeast
Yes, but I think that's a very vocal minority. I don't think you'll hear that from most of the more experienced brewers, and I hear it on this forum repeated incessently but only by a minority.
The "clean up" phase of the yeast's life cycle is about 24 hours or so, at the tail end of primary fermentation. That's when the preferred fermentable sugars are gone, and then the yeast will go after the less preferential sugars (like maltiose) and then finally start to digest their own waste products when fermentables are gone. This certainly doesn't take all that long- maybe a day or two after FG is reached is a safe bet to ensure it's finished and clearing starts.
Interestingly, Basic Brewing Radio did an experiment a couple of years ago with the same recipe and doing a traditional "primary/secondary", primary only short term, and primary only long term.
All people noted differences in the final beer. The interesting part of that was some preferred the shorter time in the fermenter, while nearly as many preferred the longer time in the fermenter. So it really is personal preference, as some definitely do find the long primary preferable!
I'm thinking about adding some yeast to a german pils when I bottle. I have some dry wine yeast, (Cote des Blancs, I think) that I probably won't use, would that be ok for bottle conditioning?
How long has it been lagering? I personally think if it's less than 2 months, I wouldn't bother.
5 weeks at 40Fish, but I used cold-fermented notty, not a lager yeast. Will that make a difference (as in will it completely floc out at cooler temps where lager yeast wouldn't)?
Adding honey to secondary after 7 days fermenting @ 50F, 1 day D-Rest @ 65F [...]
tommyguner03 said:ok so i stuck a digital meat thermometer in the fridge for 30min and the temp was at 40 degrees. and thats only on the middle selection for temp range. i would move the temp down but i have some beer and soda in the fridge so i dont want any bombs again
The first, and only, lager I've brewed was fermented and then lagered in a small mini fridge first in a bucket, then racked to secondary carboy, etc.
One suggestion I would make, and why I haven't made another lager (yet), is that I could not easily rack off all the crud because by the time I removed the carboy and lifted it to countertop level, I stirred up all the crud/trub. Some folks sounds like they let it sit and settle again.
However, it is possible to use one of the plastic/rubbery carboy caps with two holes to perform a floor-level transfer without disturbing the trub using low pressure CO2 and a racking cane. The alternative is to set your mini fridge on the countertop, or simply wait for the trub to settle again. I suspect it would take quite some time to settle again. I used a fining agent in the lagering carboy before racking to keg, and a second fining in the keg as I recall. My first lager I was quite concerned about a clear finished beer.
Now I have a conical, so I can dump the junk. Gonna take a stab at Kai's helles recipe soon. How friendly is the 830 yeast? Are there other friendlier yeasts to work with?
TD
Cool! Let us know. Did you use the 830 yeast? I'm tempted to use dry lager yeast.
TD
Kai's recipe calls out a different way to measure hops than what I am used to, in g/l I think.
I was going to use magnum .5 oz x60min, then .5oz of hallertau for next two additions i think 45 and 15 min - for 11 gal. This sound good to you?
In beersmith, the range appropriate for style bars show ibus toward the lower end of the range.
Brew day is either 4/21 or 4/28. Gonna brew with a friend and split the cost, under $50. Trying to get more friends into hobby.
TD
CDGoin said:OK.. just had a debate with a friend (who was a home brewer "back in the day" and "may" know more than me on teh subject).
I say Pilsner is a distinct style of Lager and different from Budwieser/Miller/Coors as those are an american style pale lagers.. I know the Pilsners I have had from Germany are different.
There is no "beechwood aging" or Rice or corn German/Czech Pilsners and thats only some of the differences.
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